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White smoke after oil change, switched oils.

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Old Mar 1, 2019, 04:29 PM
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White smoke after oil change, switched oils.

Need a little help guys, I changed my oil today and had decided to switch to VR1 20w50 and give it a try as opposed to the Rotella T6 5w40 that I had been running for the last several changes and after the change the car is rolling white smoke at idle and cleans up under throttle. No smoke at all before the change.

No oil in coolant or coolant in oil.

Any advice?

The oil is at the very top of the full mark, I was thinking maybe with the slightly thicker oil I need to run it below full? I put in 5 quarts even and my car holds a little more than stock from aftermarket oil cooler, etc.
Old Mar 1, 2019, 04:34 PM
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White smoke doesn’t mean oil. I don’t see changing the oil causing any smoke. You sure it isn’t water condensation? White smoke is coolant blue is oil and black is too rich
Old Mar 1, 2019, 04:39 PM
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I have seen oil overfill cause white/grayish smoke (hard to tell as it is extremely cloudy/dark today) as it causes the oil to foam and be pushed through places it shouldn't be. Im sure it isn't condensation as it is was in my garage and the smoke was thick enough to kind of lay at the ceiling for a bit.
Old Mar 1, 2019, 04:44 PM
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I was really hoping someone had came across this before using this oil or something. I did switch from synthetic to the non synth VR1 but other than that nothing else changed and there was no smoke before.
Old Mar 1, 2019, 06:00 PM
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So I drained about 1/2 qt and let it run for a few minutes and the smoke is gone, had me scared for a minute but I knew nothing should have changed.

So apparently vr1 needs to be ran below full, I had always ran 5qts even with the T6 with no issues.
Old Mar 1, 2019, 07:51 PM
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Fill to the fill line on the dip stick. There is no reason to run less of one brand oil and more of another. That wouldn't make sense.
Old Mar 1, 2019, 08:03 PM
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Originally Posted by kaj
Fill to the fill line on the dip stick. There is no reason to run less of one brand oil and more of another. That wouldn't make sense.
Regardless, lowering the level of oil from complete full line to in the middle solved the issue so there is some sense behind it. The thicker and non synthetic vr1 seems to have a higher foaming quality or something than that of the T6 that I have ran for years at complete full level.
Thanks though Im just glad the issue wasn't more serious.
Old Mar 1, 2019, 09:22 PM
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What I'm implying is that you may have an underlying issue where you have to run lower oil levels to compensate. Back in the day, I used to fill half a quart above full and never had a problem. The car should be able to tolerate it. This was with Rotella as well as VR1 20w50. Changing oil shouldn't require a change in oil level in order for the car to function properly.
I.E. it's possible your car doesn't like higher oil pressures (100psi or so, higher if you have a balance shaft delete) due to worn rings, seals, etc.

Not challenging you or anything; I'm just tossing out the possibility, just in case. Maybe something you can look into or keep an eye on.
Old Mar 2, 2019, 01:29 AM
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The issue is the 20w50 doesn't drain well out of the turbo, so it leaks out the hot side and burns. Go back to running 5w40 and your problems will go away.
Old Mar 3, 2019, 04:50 PM
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Unless you are running the specific oil in very cold ambient conditions, or you have a return/drain line done the wrong way, then you have no draining back issues. The issue lies in higher oil pressure due to the higher viscocity oil, and to slightly worn gas turbine rings. Even the healthiest turbo can have smoking issues if the oil pressure it is fed on , is the wrong one. And something else, due to the way turbos are fed and distribute oil to their bearings, the thicker the oil the less quantity of it reaches the bearings at X amount of time in relation to a lower viscosity oil, but it does so in higher pressure, and pressure is what pushes oil through the gas rings, not quantity, unless of course you over feed the turbo with oil when it has no way of draining out properly. You can reduce of course the overall oil pressure of an engine if you reduce quantity, less oil to recirculate.


I have run all types of oils, full, semi, regular, on all viscocity levels, through various turbos, in fact I am now using a 20w50 oil through a ceramic dbb core, with no issues whatsoever.


If you had no problem with the 5w40 oil, and you wish to run a higher viscosity one, try a 15w50.


A healthy turbo, on the right oil pressure and drain line, can run any type of oil with no problems.





Marios

Last edited by Evo8cy; Mar 3, 2019 at 05:30 PM. Reason: added comment




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