Usual Block Condition on Engine with Rod Knock
#2
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
It's doesn't unless the thrust bearing fell out.
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2006EvoIXer (Mar 26, 2019)
The following users liked this post:
2006EvoIXer (Mar 26, 2019)
#5
Evolving Member
On the original motor that came with my car which wasn’t maintained by previous owner. The crank went but the rods and pistons were still good and the bareblock was in great condition. But I didn’t throw a rod I spun a bearing.
#7
Evolving Member
my knock came from a spun bearing but the knock would be more pronounced as revs increased. So I shut my car down from the first time I heard the sound and never drove on it until I removed motor but damaged was already done to crank. Cause was contamination in oil.
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#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (2)
The term "spun bearing" is often misused. You can damage a bearing and have it result in rod knock. For it to be a spun bearing, the bearing halves (or one) have to actually rotate in the rod (or block if it's a main). Usually bearing damage starts and contact between the crank journal and the bearing. If the contact is severe enough or the engine is run for long enough after the knock is present then the bearing itself will spin.
In most cases, if the knock is caught fast enough, the crank can be machined back into usable condition (my crank has been ground twice now) and as long as the bearings aren't spun the rods and block will not need any machine work.
You have to run the engine for a pretty good amount of time for the bearing debris to make it into the head. The first time I wiped out a bearing in my evo there was a TON of trash in the oil pan, none of it made it up to the head at all. The only thing that absolutely should be replaced every time is the oil pump since it is the only part of the oiling system that's before the oil filter. The cooler should be heavily flushed and examined, replacement recommended.
In most cases, if the knock is caught fast enough, the crank can be machined back into usable condition (my crank has been ground twice now) and as long as the bearings aren't spun the rods and block will not need any machine work.
You have to run the engine for a pretty good amount of time for the bearing debris to make it into the head. The first time I wiped out a bearing in my evo there was a TON of trash in the oil pan, none of it made it up to the head at all. The only thing that absolutely should be replaced every time is the oil pump since it is the only part of the oiling system that's before the oil filter. The cooler should be heavily flushed and examined, replacement recommended.
The following users liked this post:
2006EvoIXer (Mar 26, 2019)
#10
Evolving Member
#11
Evolving Member
The term "spun bearing" is often misused. You can damage a bearing and have it result in rod knock. For it to be a spun bearing, the bearing halves (or one) have to actually rotate in the rod (or block if it's a main). Usually bearing damage starts and contact between the crank journal and the bearing. If the contact is severe enough or the engine is run for long enough after the knock is present then the bearing itself will spin.
In most cases, if the knock is caught fast enough, the crank can be machined back into usable condition (my crank has been ground twice now) and as long as the bearings aren't spun the rods and block will not need any machine work.
You have to run the engine for a pretty good amount of time for the bearing debris to make it into the head. The first time I wiped out a bearing in my evo there was a TON of trash in the oil pan, none of it made it up to the head at all. The only thing that absolutely should be replaced every time is the oil pump since it is the only part of the oiling system that's before the oil filter. The cooler should be heavily flushed and examined, replacement recommended.
In most cases, if the knock is caught fast enough, the crank can be machined back into usable condition (my crank has been ground twice now) and as long as the bearings aren't spun the rods and block will not need any machine work.
You have to run the engine for a pretty good amount of time for the bearing debris to make it into the head. The first time I wiped out a bearing in my evo there was a TON of trash in the oil pan, none of it made it up to the head at all. The only thing that absolutely should be replaced every time is the oil pump since it is the only part of the oiling system that's before the oil filter. The cooler should be heavily flushed and examined, replacement recommended.
#13
Evolving Member
#14
Evolved Member
Yeah, you always read, "I was only a few miles away when the [oil light came on] [temperature gauge when up] [engine started knocking] so I decided to limp it home.
#15
Evolving Member
I honestly don't get this mentality. If you're close to home, the tow is waaaaay cheaper than the cost of repairing severe engine damage. The only time I would limp the car is if it is super unsafe to pull over where I'm at, but the second you can pull over, shut it down.