Evo9isLife

How much torque do you plan to make? Always go with sprung disks if its not a dedicated drag/track car. If you plan on being under or around 550tq there are single disk clutches that can handle it and drive nicely like a ACT XTSS kit, a lot of people like the Exedy twin as well and like its driveability.

AgresvEvo

Goal is 650+ once I get the bottom end built and get a bigger turbo. So I'm thinking I should get a clutch rated at 650. Plus the drivability between 550 and 650 clutch is not that big of a difference. I looked at the Exedy Twin Disk some yesterday and I think that's the route I will go.

Evo9isLife

Should be great choice. I dont have experience with it so hopefully others will chime in, but it seems to be the go to clutch for most.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Sounds like the clutch. If you are going with an overkill clutch because "I'll go bigger later" be sure you actually are, within the life span of the new clutch. Otherwise driving it will be a lot less fun for no good reason.

AgresvEvo

yea kaj you are right and that is great advice. I don't put a ton of miles on the car so replacing the clutch now it will likely have 1-2k miles on it once its gets built. also just found out yesterdayit was a used clutch not new..

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

An exedy twin will not hold 650wtq. That is definitely triple disk territory for exedy, or you'll need a quarter master twin.

AgresvEvo

Yea I guess I will continue reading to see what other big power guys use and go from there. I know drivability and holding power don't really mix but If I can get one that's not too awful and will hold it will be a win. Going to be ordering a buscher mustache bar and carrier bushings too so it should feel alot better once its all complete.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Are you competing with the car? I'm curious why you would be willing to drive a car that's so difficult to operate. Just to get a dyno number? For drag racing? I guess if you don't have to drive it much, it's not as big of a deal. Or, it could just be that I'm lazy and have a low tolerance for how much work my car is to drive vs the fun I get from it
Sorry.. had a Rockstar and now thinking out loud. I'm always wondering why people do certain things. I learn a lot that way.

AgresvEvo

I won't be competing as in a circuit or anything but I do plan to track it for fun and go to the drag strip, and by "for fun" I mean to win. lol The QuarterMaster I have now is a pain but if I go for a spirited drive with some buddies or go to the track and the clutch doesn't hold up it will me off. So I would rather it feel more like a race car and perform when I need it to, then to have it drive like stock and fail when I drive it hard.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Makes sense. That's pretty much the reason I've capped my car to a max of 500whp (Not there now, but in the future, maybe). I don't want to have stuff start failing when I really push the car. At my current power level, that's easy with basic, reasonably priced, reliable parts. Once you get over 500whp, it gets really expensive and labor intensive (time performing repairs/maintenance vs actual driving time).
Back in the day, I went the high HP route. It was fun. Now I just wanna be a track rat, so had go a different direction

Dula

I just ordered my Exedy Twin today. They are currently on sale too which is a win.

I think he is looking for 650 hp and not wtq. If he is retaining 2.0 displacement this could easily keep him to around 1000 hp depending on how the tune is.

AgresvEvo

So the thought that keeps playing in my head is if it's the clutch crapping out or not, which I'm convinced it is, why did it just spin the fronts when it did hold? Is it possible that the t-case is working as it should but due to the clutch slipping it won't transfer the power back to the rear? This doesn't seem like a possibility to me but maybe? IDK no body like hunting gremlins..

thedru13

iTrader: (24)

I have a similar issue and I think its my clutch. I have an exedy twin and appears i am having a clutch drag issue. Not sure if QuaterMaster Twin if that has the same type of issue but lots of documentation with the exedy issue
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...clutch-warning
https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...kills-synchros

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Based on context, you need to work on reading comprehension. The post above his talks about torque, and he is looking for a clutch rated for a certain "number", clutches aren't rated in HP (if they are, that's wrong and you shouldn't buy from the mfg). So he IS talking about torque.

AgresvEvo

So update on this issue. I took the car to a local buddy who has built some very respectable cars and has built 2 evo 8's. I told him about how the clutch feels and how it feels like its slipping etc. So he pulled the trans and inspected the clutch for obvious wear. He said that the clutch actually looked good and probably didn't have many miles on it. To be sure, we shipped the clutch to QuarterMaster to have them inspect it and check the specs. Everything came back fine and to spec. Once he put everything back together he took it out for a drive and said the clutch felt better and on the short drive he took it pulled great 1st - mid 3rd gear. Great!! I go drive it and he was right, clutch engagement is a lot better. Then we get a good stretch and AWWWW MMAAANNNNN! hooks up pulls like a frkn freight train and all is great in the world at that moment. LOL

drive home just cruisin, no problem. Get the car out last night, taking the gf out for dinner, we get on the on ramp and I'm thinking I'm about to get on the interstate like a damn nascar driver and the ****er starts to slip as soon as I get into 3rd gear. Conditions were pretty close to the same as the other day and now its slipping again. Also the ACD lights all came on and stayed on. So I pull off, turn off the car, debate on lighting it on fire and calling a uber.. Once I start the car the ACD lights are off except the one on tarmac (as it should be) I start moving again and in about 20ft the lights come back on. So call my buddy and he says bring it in we will bleed everything to make sure there isn't air in it and that he has a act twindisk that he knows is good that we can try just to eliminate the chance of the clutch being defective etc.

Also the carrier bushings holding the rear diff are completely shot so I ordered a mustache delete kit from awdmotorsports to fix that. Is there any way possible that the rear diff flexing due to the bad bushings maybe causing the t-case to slip or not engage properly? I know this post is long and drawn out but this gremlin has me so aggravated I just wanted to rant. I'm not selling the car because I've wanted one for too long to just sell it but damn it man its testing me and me wallet. Thanks for reading and I'll report once it's fixed whenever that is....