Please help!! Timing belt teeth shreding off as I turn it to TDC

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Apr 12, 2019 | 06:05 PM
  #16  
Pull it off and add grease. Make sure it does pivot to keep tension. Also, rotate your crank slightly to see if #1 piston goes up or down. If down, then it's 180° off to TDC, so take that into account if you want to set timing at TDC (you will be off by 180°. Lol
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Apr 12, 2019 | 06:13 PM
  #17  
with the auto tensioner off, the tentioner arm wont come off?
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Apr 13, 2019 | 05:00 AM
  #18  
Quote: Pull it off and add grease. Make sure it does pivot to keep tension. Also, rotate your crank slightly to see if #1 piston goes up or down. If down, then it's 180° off to TDC, so take that into account if you want to set timing at TDC (you will be off by 180°. Lol
Well, if the timing mark lines up it's correct no matter what right?

Quote: with the auto tensioner off, the tentioner arm wont come off?
Yup. Won't rotate or come off. Even gently put a pry bar on there
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Apr 13, 2019 | 09:23 AM
  #19  
Quote: Well, if the timing mark lines up it's correct no matter what right?



Yup. Won't rotate or come off. Even gently put a pry bar on there
Correct. If all the timing marks line up, you are good.
As for the tensioner arm, you need to get it free so it can pivot. Is the bolt rusted so bad that it's frozen? Will bolt break if you try to break the bolt loose?
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Apr 13, 2019 | 10:48 AM
  #20  
The bolt came off with no trouble but the arm was stuck.Thankfully after some PB blaster and wiggling I was able to get it off. Everything else came off smoothly and after a little break I'll be putting everything back together, with a generous dose of grease on the pivot arm. Any suggestions on type of grease? Is anti-seize not appropriate for this?
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Apr 13, 2019 | 12:01 PM
  #21  
Quote: Well, if the timing mark lines up it's correct no matter what right?
They need to line up, and the oil pump driven balance shaft needs to be in phase with the engine.
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Apr 13, 2019 | 12:32 PM
  #22  
Quote: They need to line up, and the oil pump driven balance shaft needs to be in phase with the engine.
Oh yes, I forgot. Oil sprocket timing mark has to be in correct phase.
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Apr 13, 2019 | 12:35 PM
  #23  
Quote: The bolt came off with no trouble but the arm was stuck.Thankfully after some PB blaster and wiggling I was able to get it off. Everything else came off smoothly and after a little break I'll be putting everything back together, with a generous dose of grease on the pivot arm. Any suggestions on type of grease? Is anti-seize not appropriate for this?
I think any grease will work since it won't be hot like exhaust manifold where I use Never Seize grease.
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Apr 13, 2019 | 12:38 PM
  #24  
Looks like you are well on your way to fixing your timing belt problem. Good job catching in time! Most people would have driven until engine stops running after bendind some valves.
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Apr 14, 2019 | 06:06 PM
  #25  

Oil pump setup - plus I love this guy's accent.
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Apr 14, 2019 | 08:03 PM
  #26  
Yup, knew about the balance shaft phasing. Wanted to make sure about the crank

Quote: Looks like you are well on your way to fixing your timing belt problem. Good job catching in time! Most people would have driven until engine stops running after bendind some valves.
Well I tend to be on the careful side after spending thousands of dollars and dozens of hours rebuilding the engine :P I'll definitely be rechecking the timing belt tension every oil change from here on out though. I wonder if the fact that I don't have my upper timing cover on (due to 4g64 block) led to the issue with the arm seizing (due to water). Or perhaps I overtorqued the bolt last time or didn't use enough grease, etc.
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Apr 15, 2019 | 10:20 AM
  #27  
Quote: Yup, knew about the balance shaft phasing. Wanted to make sure about the crank



Well I tend to be on the careful side after spending thousands of dollars and dozens of hours rebuilding the engine :P I'll definitely be rechecking the timing belt tension every oil change from here on out though. I wonder if the fact that I don't have my upper timing cover on (due to 4g64 block) led to the issue with the arm seizing (due to water). Or perhaps I overtorqued the bolt last time or didn't use enough grease, etc.
Yeah, could be, especially if you drove through some salty snow sludge and then left the car unused for awhile. With the arm freed and lubricated, the most important thing is having the belt adjusted to where the grenade pin is free in the tensioner as in the video. That assures plenty of take-up for any belt stretch.
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