The s2 may work with that at stock markings, but they will not give you the max gains they would give if you zeroed them and dialed them in. You can make your setup act as close as to what it did with stock cams, boost threshold, spool, and full boost rpm point and still gain up top with the s2, if you zero them and dial them in at the correct combo. If your tuner is knowledgable on the matter he will agree with me.




Watch the video, and re-read my post number 26 and 28.








Marios

 

Marios I think that's just your approach to engine tuning. I wouldn't start with the cams at 0 advance. I would correct them (if needed) to what the card specifies then put it on a dyno. Then I would add or subtract from there until I am satisfied. If i was paying you to build and tune my engine I wouldn't want you to start with the cams at 0 degrees. I would want you to start at the cam mfg spec because that's likely much closer to what it will end up being, and I'm paying for every iteration of cam position on the dyno. I mean you choose the cam specs based on your combo/goals, if that choice is going to require a major deviation from the spec to work then why did you choose it? Ideally if I was paying you, this would be your nth time building this exact combo and you would have a pretty good idea of what the cam timing should be set at before it hits the Dyno.

 

You have not understood how this procedure works or what it actually does, hence what you write above is jiberish. You have also never actually applied it. Go and watch the video which shows exactly what I said because I will not repeat it.


This is not an approach , this the correct method of installing aftermarket cams, in the same way the factory created the markings for the oem cams, that is why every established camshaft and valvetrain manufacturing company includes a card with every set, or at the very least they have issued one on their website.


Zeroing the cams, means the camshafts are at 0 degree advance or retard in relation to TDC. This is the whole point of zeroing the cams and this is why it is called as such.


In order to be able to know how much degrees you move the cams in relation to TDC, either advancing them or retarding them, always taking into consideration clearance/contact, one needs to ZERO the camshafts, that means doing what I described in my previous posts , and what the video shows, otherwise one will not be able to know at which degrees any of the camshafts is, in relation to advance or retard positions, as I already said, at stock markings one camshaft could be retarded by a along margine, and the other advanced by along margine in relation to TDC.


Cam dialing does not alter a camshaft's properties, characteristis, capabilities and specs, it does not alter its effective duration, its lift, its LSA, its LC, the angle the nose, flank is cut etc. Cam degreeing has nothing to do with why one would choose a certain set of camshafts for his setup, other reasons and factors do. Camshaft degreeing has all to do with putting that specific characteristics of the camshaft into work the right way, maximizing and optimizing its capabilities in relation to the setup and what ones wants to gain out of it.



As you have no idea how to built an engine properly, going by what you post here, and because almost everything you said on the matter is wrong, I would built the setup the proper way, according to what you want out of your car, because that is the only way for you to get the setup you want, and no cam degreeing will not come back to what it would have been if the set was left on stock markings, it may come, it may come close, it may be completely different. Each specific setup has its own dialing combo depending on many factors, which can greatly differ from one specific setup to another.







I do believe the O.P, has his answer on the matter, I have said more than I should have on it, there is really no point in discussing this any further.












Marios

 

Youtube videos are entertainment, not source material. Using them to try and make your argument is lazy, and as you are too lazy to make an argument yourself so I will be lazy and not watch your video. I have attempted to debate with you without insulting you, unfortunately you seem unable to do the same. If you are literally turning every engine build into an R&D experiment then you are ripping off your customers. If your product is so inconsistent that it requires a from scratch tune every time you build it then maybe that should be a sign.

 

It was a good topic but it has run its course