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Engine Repositioning and CV angle limits.

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Old Jun 10, 2019, 11:10 PM
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Engine Repositioning and CV angle limits.

Hi all, I have a clean sheet of paper and the ability to move engine mounts, machine propshafts etc. Would it be possible for me to move the complete Evo engine assembly rearward maybe 10-20mm to get some weight off the front of the car and free up space upfront? Has anyone tried this? If not, does anyone know some reference info like the angle limits of the CV joints or the suspension lowering limits before CV joints rapidly wear? The car will be aimed predominantly at circuit racing but I have no paddock team so I cannot introduce another consumable item. Also, I will be running the car at the beginning on stock suspension so i need to maintain a full vertical movement CV operational window. Having CV joints at a constant misaligned angle actually helps their lubrication and life but I would like too know how much is too much angle to introduce with engine setback :-) Any feedback would be appreciated. Thanks.
Old Jun 11, 2019, 03:17 AM
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two things.. actually, four..

first, I think it is a complete waste of time, because there are numerous other thing to be done to improve the platform. Moving the engine around being the last of them.
second, no problem in having a bit more CV angle, there are stock cars that do..
third.. the problem you will encounter is the position of the steering rack, which might come in contact with the transfer box, when you move the engine
Fourth... clean sheet build and stock suspension on the track. ? Really?
Old Jun 11, 2019, 03:34 AM
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Thanks for your message and I will keep an eye on steering rack clearance. Do you know what rearwards movement would be acceptable?

I knew your queries would come up but there is method in the "madness".
I will be fabricating the tubular chassis myself as a soon to be dad of 2. I have very little time and modifying suspension design to d.wishbone is beyond my timescale.
This won't be a full blown track car and will retain all stock components. I don't plan to compete in any series, only to go fast on track days.
If you have ideas to make it faster that don't cost much money or time then I'm all ears :-) Thanks
Old Jun 11, 2019, 05:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Dreadnought
Thanks for your message and I will keep an eye on steering rack clearance. Do you know what rearwards movement would be acceptable?

I knew your queries would come up but there is method in the "madness".
I will be fabricating the tubular chassis myself as a soon to be dad of 2. I have very little time and modifying suspension design to d.wishbone is beyond my timescale.
This won't be a full blown track car and will retain all stock components. I don't plan to compete in any series, only to go fast on track days.
If you have ideas to make it faster that don't cost much money or time then I'm all ears :-) Thanks
I just want to make sure we are on the same page here. So your going to reposition the engine back 20mm and do a tubular frame something(front end I’m guessing), only to turn around and say you don’t have the time or money to invest into suspension?
Old Jun 11, 2019, 06:25 AM
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Originally Posted by GSX_TO_EVO
I just want to make sure we are on the same page here. So your going to reposition the engine back 20mm and do a tubular frame something(front end I’m guessing), only to turn around and say you don’t have the time or money to invest into suspension?
I'm fitting the remaining engine and drivetrain components from a crashed Evo 5 into a DIY tubular chassis. I've jigged up all the pickup points for the standard Evo suspension already and I intend to use these but I am asking if I can move the engine back relative to the front axle. I have no motivation to ditch my current suspension setup to waste hours on DIY suspension that may or may not be any better then what Mitsubishi has already designed. I am not trying to build the ultimate track car. If in the future I want to upgrade suspension I can buy coilovers but Im 5+years away from my likely completion date so I'm keeping it simple.
Old Jun 11, 2019, 09:12 AM
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Just the other day I calculated briefly the effect of moving the engine 50mm back, and I think the weight distribution changed by like 4.7lb!!
Nothing.

E5/6 has more room behind the engine, to the firewall.
You may be able to move it back 50mm or even more, and keep in mind it will affect serviceability of the intake manifold.


Rolling Evo 5/6 chassis in UK is really cheap: repairing the car like you are is very labor intensive and therefore costly, even as DIY project, its not an economical choice.

I suggest you focus on parting out what is left of the E5 chassis and start with healthy roller at least.
Than focus on limiting weight, "lightning", by using small lightweight battery close to firewall,
by using fin&tube intercooler and stock or similar lightweight radiator, use magnesium valve cover, lightweight downpipe, etc..

It won't make a huge difference, it may be un-noticeable, but it will help.
E5/6 are pretty light and simple.
Old Jun 11, 2019, 10:57 PM
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Originally Posted by alpinaturbo
Just the other day I calculated briefly the effect of moving the engine 50mm back, and I think the weight distribution changed by like 4.7lb!!
Nothing.

E5/6 has more room behind the engine, to the firewall.
You may be able to move it back 50mm or even more, and keep in mind it will affect serviceability of the intake manifold.


Rolling Evo 5/6 chassis in UK is really cheap: repairing the car like you are is very labor intensive and therefore costly, even as DIY project, its not an economical choice.

I suggest you focus on parting out what is left of the E5 chassis and start with healthy roller at least.
Than focus on limiting weight, "lightning", by using small lightweight battery close to firewall,
by using fin&tube intercooler and stock or similar lightweight radiator, use magnesium valve cover, lightweight downpipe, etc..

It won't make a huge difference, it may be un-noticeable, but it will help.
E5/6 are pretty light and simple.
Thanks Alpina Turbo. The main engine, gearbox and transfer case is a 300kg assembly in itself so I'm surprised the weight change is so little. I have the fibreglass silhouette of a rare non-mitsubishi car I bought back around 12 years and due to chasing other dreams for the last decade the project has been lying in storage since then. The car has much less front overhang hence why I struggle to fit everything from the Evo upfront. I would not just be moving the engine...I'd move all cooling ancilleries with the engine so in theory I could have upwards of 350kg moving 20mm rearwards in a car where all the components come to 950kg (dry w/o driver). I see your point regarding cost of shells here in the UK but the creation of an Evo isn't my aim here.
What Im trying to do may not make sense to everyone but I'm not an amateur and I have scratch built cars before. Lots of fast circuit and rally cars retain stock suspension pickups so I'm not worried about a lack of performance. This car will be full tube frame so it will offer endless modification options in the future. From doing this style of project previously, the main enjoyment factor is the journey and seeing how each modification step slowly transforms the car - not purchasing every go faster part under the sun before I have even driven the car with standard components. Thanks




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