Ok I'll try to be as detailed as possible. Freshly built motor and head. I just hit about 4k miles on the motor. And after a long drive, about a hour. I stopped and filled up e85. When I out and started my car i nice puff of smoke came out the exhaust. Seems to only smoke when warm. Very very little at idle. And a good puff if i rev it a bit in neutral. I did a compression test and was 225 across the board. Plugs were dry and good looking. What is causing my car to smoke when warm? Doesn't seem to on cold starts. It looks to be white smoke which tells me coolant. With build I put on a new 71hta turbo with proper feed line from oil filter housing. I do have excessive crank case pressure, OEM pvc valve is in the way, yes i know that would mean oil burning. I haven't had a chance to look in ic pipes or check compressor housing yet.

Heres my build

Weisco 1400 hd e85 pistons 10.5-1
Manley turbo tuff i beam 150mm rods
Stock crank
Hks 272 cams
Duel springs and titanium are
Unsure of valves but they're not stock
OEM head gasket
Arp mains and head studs
Aem cam gears
Balance shaft delete

I broke in the motor with arms break in oil and run amsoil zrod 10 30 oil now. It literally just started to smoke this Sunday the 14th I believe.

My thought is turbo. But its brand new and has proper oil feed. What else should I look at?

 

Also today. Drove about 20 minutes. Was sitting there idling for about 5 minutes or so after the 20 minute drive. Threw it in reverse and a good puff of smoke came out. At idle there the slightest amount of smoke and very little to none while driving.

 

I have a feeling you're just seeing moisture from the exhaust. What color is the smoke and do you still experience it after having driven the car for a while?
If its white and goes away after a bit of driving, it's nothing to worry about. Oil smoke will have a bluish tint to it.

 

Its only when warm. I don't notice when cold or cold start ups. It looks like a white/grey smoke.

 

Who built the motor?

Which dual valve springs were used? We're the appropriate valve stem seals for the dual springs used ?

 

I have no clue in the springs. Head was built before i owed the car. I had put new oem valve seals in along with a deck. A local machine shop/race engine shop did my block. I assembled the head(but valves and springs) and put head on block. And finished engine assembly myself(timing, front case ect)

 

You can't use OEM valve seals with dual springs. Valve seals are your likely culprit.

Since the springs have to come off to replace the seals, I'd switch to a single spring setup. GSC 5040's would be more than enough for the HKS 272's.

 

What valve seals would be required for dual springs? If i have to(if thats for sure my culprit) i can have it fixed this winter.

 

It depends on the manufacturer of the springs, they usually come with their own seal.

You don't know what you have, therefore I have suggested you go to a single spring setup. Dual springs really aren't even a thing theses days. They generally have valve seal issues regardless. 0/10 never recommend them.

 

When I had DSM valve seal problems (early version of the Evo engine) the exhaust smoke looked white but it smelled of oil. I had to idle the car in a closed garage for twenty minutes to see blue smoke. BTW, don't do this in an attached garage and don't stay in there.

 

Yes I know the dsm world quite well. Was in it for like 14 years. Yes my smoke looks white with a hint of grey and smells like oil. Well guess I'll be doing the head this winter possibly

 

Usually if it's valve seals you'll get a good puff out the exhaust when you first start the car because the oil on the stem leaks past the seal and pools onto the valve so when the motor gets started it gets burned off immediately. If it's not consuming oil at an accelerated rate it's not a big deal.

 

This sounds a lot like a valve seal problem. However, you mentioned excessive crankcase pressure. This might case the turbo to bleed oil. So, another possibility.

You might want to get the engine vented first, you have to do this anyway, and that might fix the problem.

 

I ordered a new pcv valve hopefully that will fix the crank case pressure. Otherwise I'll have to go catch can. I've been searching alot about how to with crank case pressure. And i just saw the sticky on here so I'm gonna read up on that.