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Interesting that Intermotor would use a factory 1A IAC on only some their IAC's.
I removed, cleaned and tested my OEM IAC and it seems to be functioning properly. The plunger moves and makes a clicking noise when I turn the ignition. There was also a ton of carbon build up in the area where the plunger goes in the throttle body. I cleaned the area the best I could with some throttle/carb cleaner and a q-tip. Then started up the car and let it idle for 15 mins.
I'm still experiencing a cold start issue. My idle jumps to a little over 2000 then slowly goes down and my air/fuel reading is high off the charts. It doesn't even show a reading on my AEM A/F gauge. Idle and motor sounds a bit rough and the car struggles if you try to drive it during this time. It takes about 2-3 mins sitting at idle before the air fuel stablizes, idle and motor smoothes out and I'd be able to drive off normally with no issues. Once it is beyond the first 2-3 mins the car drives and performs normally. Anything else I need to look for? I really want this issue resolved.
Interesting that Intermotor would use a factory 1A IAC on only some their IAC's.
I removed, cleaned and tested my OEM IAC and it seems to be functioning properly. The plunger moves and makes a clicking noise when I turn the ignition. There was also a ton of carbon build up in the area where the plunger goes in the throttle body. I cleaned the area the best I could with some throttle/carb cleaner and a q-tip. Then started up the car and let it idle for 15 mins.
I'm still experiencing a cold start issue. My idle jumps to a little over 2000 then slowly goes down and my air/fuel reading is high off the charts. It doesn't even show a reading on my AEM A/F gauge. Idle and motor sounds a bit rough and the car struggles if you try to drive it during this time. It takes about 2-3 mins sitting at idle before the air fuel stablizes, idle and motor smoothes out and I'd be able to drive off normally with no issues. Once it is beyond the first 2-3 mins the car drives and performs normally. Anything else I need to look for? I really want this issue resolved.
If your IAC clicked, there is something wrong with it.
The Mitsubishi OEM IAC that I found re-boxed in Oriellys Intermotor box was a success. No more problems with idle. To sum things up, don't buy junk aftermarket IAC's unless its die hard emergency, They will get you by but nothing more. The Mitsubishi OEM IAC is the way to go.
Sorry for the late reply, so the aftermarket Oriellys IAC Failed after 3 weeks. I can say that it did fix the original issue during that time. I did also want to note that i was able to find a factory OE IAC with the 1A stamp on the top from oriellys that was repackaged in the intermotor brand name. What I had to do was order a quantity of 10 IAC's (Part # AC571) and open each box individually. Sure enough I scored and found a factory Mitsubishi part re-boxed in the intermotor box. I was very lucky.
With that being said, i have not switched it out yet, because of work. I will follow up at a later time with results with the factory IAC installed. I'm 100% sure this will fix the problem. As the aftermarket one I installed did work for a short time. Brand new factory Mitsubishi Part found Re-boxed.
just keep the one you want and return the rest? im sure they wanted you to pay all upfront and wait for them to be in stock to pick up right?
so ill just order 5 and open one by one to see if i get lucky and find one with 1A stamp? if not just return it all ? i dont know if they will allow that
