Hey everyone,

I just bought my 1st evo a few weeks ago and unfortunately, the motor spun a rod bearing the same day (talk about horrible luck). I wasn't very surprised as it has 180k on the original engine and I was already prepared for a rebuild. Would have been nice to make it home without a tow though. Anyway, I have already picked an engine builder and went over the basic plan with them. Looks like i'm going to go back with a 2.3 stroker to compliment the built head that is on the car already, along with either an fp red or black.

My question is what other things would you replace while i have the engine and trans out for rebuilds? I am doing a new oil pump and oil cooler, new water pump, timing belt and gasket set. the idler pulleys look good as do the tensioners, but should i replace them anyways? same with the alternator and ps pump, both work well. What about any specific sensors? Nothing is broken or in immediate need of replacement but looking for ideas on what to get out of the way while its out.

Basically, what extra would you replace if you were in my shoes. What are the "must's" that make life easier? Any parts you'd change to aftermarket? for example going with an ati or other harmonic balancer. Or an aftermarket oil pump and oil pan/ pick up tube?

 

You should build a 2.3. The 100mm crank is less than ideal for engine life. Build a 2.2L with a 94mm crank. If the builder won't do it, go somewhere else.

Engine rebuild means complete new timing belt kit, water pump, front case/oil pump, a new crank sensor would hurt since its apart. Replace the harmonic balancer, I prefer the ATI damper. A new oil pan and pick up is a good ide because when you spin a bearing, there's often metal bits that get lodged into places you can't get them out of. Of course do a balance shaft delete as well.

 

I agree, but the 2.2 isn't in the budget at the moment. It is a bit more expensive. This isn't my daily, just a weekend toy that will see about 2k miles a year or so. I think the 2.3 should last 5 years or 10k miles hopefully before having to be rebuilt again no?

 

ok. gotcha. all of that is getting replaced while it's out. just don't want to miss anything. I feel like i have everything covered but you never know.

 

2.2 can be built with 150mm rods, and you can shelf pistons in the correct compression height from I think CP. It should at the most be only a couple hundred more dollars.

 

Yeah, CP. part number is SC7216 for 85.5mm.

Don't use an OEM 100mm crank.

 

this is all for a 2.0? i read about all the different options and most said that the 2.2 was the most expensive. My builder spec'd me out as follows:

oem 100mm crank
carrillo rods
wiseco pistons
balance shaft delete
new bearings (acl or king)
all machine work included for 3400. 3200 if i went with manley i beam rods

I thought that was a solid set up.

I heard that the oem 100mm is the right one and not the manley?

 

I read your sig. I'm planning on a fp red too. what did you put down on pump by any chance? I have a similar built head and modlist to be so I'm curious. I have 93 here in NJ but E85 is scarce.

 

I wouldn't be afraid of using a 100mm crank for less then 700whp. An ATI dampner is a must. Good tuning is important. You can rattle anything to death if its not tuned well. A bigger crank is more leverage/less material, everything has its limits.

The Manley cranks have updated oiling passages that favors strength instead of bearing cooling (same as OEM ,eagle etc) But again, if its tuned poorly it will break something else eventually. People have broken stock cranks.

An fp red MHI on a 9:1 engine should make around 430-460whp or so on pump 93. You don't really want to run things hard on pump gas IMO.

My 2.2 10:1 engine with an MHI red makes 470whp at 19-20psi on E85. I don't run it hard on pump gas because of the compression ratio.

For your build make a list of what you want to ultimately achieve and work towards it.

 

I would be wary of this pricing. You have $2k in parts there and $800-$1k in machine work. This guy either likes not making money, or your bill is going to go up later.

FWIW, you're going to spend ~$400-$500 sourcing an OEM crank, polishing, balancing, and checking it for cracks and straightness at a machine shop. You can get an Eagle 94mm crank for ~$675 and have it balanced for $100. You can save $500 or so going with Eagle or Manley Htuff rods instead of Carrillo and those will be fine up to about 575wtq.

 

Yeah, i see what you are saying about not making money. The only thing i can think of is that they are the machine shop as well so maybe that is where the money is being saved for them. I could be wrong though. However, he has a great reputation on the east coast and has been building evo's since they first were released here. I have a personal friend who has an engine built by him and the pricing is accurate. I appreciate the advice though and will inquire about this with him.

 

Congrats on the buy, sucks you can’t enjoy it before opening it up for heart surgery, good luck with the build!
what part of jersey you in?

 

thanks, yeah it def sucks, but i'll get her right. I'm in central jersey in aberdeen/matawan area or exit 118 off the parkway.You?

 

What machine work/ block work needs to be done for 153/94 combo in a 4G63 block?

 

nothing other than typical bore/hone, deck, align hone that you do for any engine build.