Hey guys/gals,

I'm in the process of having a 2.3 stroker built for me. I have a fully built and ported head with s2's and will be running an MHI FP red turbo. While my engine is out, I am having the trans rebuilt since it has 180k on it. With that being said, the original clutch will be replaced before i drop everything back in. I need some help with choosing the proper clutch for my build. The car will be a 93 pump car primarily but i can see maybe e85 in the future. I am not going to be going to the drag strip more than maybe once or twice a year. I will be driving the car on weekends and probably won't exceed more than 2-3k miles a year. For reference, I've been driving manual cars for almost 30 years and have never had to replace a clutch. This includes 3 STi's with 350-600 whp and 70k miles, along with 2 z06's pushing 650 and 850 whp respectively. So i'm pretty gentle and know how to drive well.

I'm looking at the comp clutch stage 2 and the south bend stage 2. Anyone have any experience with either of these? I can also get an exedy twin hd for 1200 right now through a friend but I'm on the fence about a twin disc. How bad is the chatter on the twin discs? I can't stand when my car sounds like something is broken....example..long tube headers on a direct injection v8 motor sound like a header bolt leak (loud ticking sound) but it's actually the injectors that are this loud. It's so obnoxious.

any help would be appreciated.

 

Exedy twin HD is very popular for these cars and drives well. I'm very picky and the chatter isn't bad for me but I also have a smooth idle. The clutches in these cars are a wear item and a tough job to replace.

If its not making over 450 lb ft then a ACT sprung 6 puck shifts well also. I had two of them and at lower levels with a proper break in they drove nice.

If you don't have a trans guy then you could send it TRE. He is very good with these transmissions /diffs.

 

Also, the Exedy twin only chatters when the clutch is disengaged, when sitting in neutral with your foot off the clutch, it doesn't make noise. It is the clutch I would go with for your application.

 

thanks for the response. i'm having the trans done at beanfab in NJ. they are solid. Can I ask what clutch you are running now? One other thing to note, my wife will be driving the car from time to time, since she likes to have some fun too. So i guess the pedal pressure can't be too great either.

 

also, what is the deal with the "monlock" thing? Is it something i should do? can i get it separately?

 

It is 100% something you should do with any clutch in this car.

If you with an ACT clutch, the come with it. Or you just purchase separately for any other clutch. Also he sure to get a new OEM tob.

 

Once I started running the car consistently over 400-450 lb ft the 6 puck wasn't happy with it. I've been on the Exedy twin HD for a bit. It has light pedal pressure. Its a great option for your power level.

You may also want to decide if you are going to a 4.31 or 4.11 final drive since you will have a Stroker engine/responsive turbo. Having a taller FD is nice with a broad powerband. Less tire spin and easier on the drivetrain IMO.

You have hills in NJ so the stock final drive or 4.31 should be fine. If you stay with the stock final drive then an Evo 9 first gear is nice. If you go to the 4.31 then the shorter Evo 8 first gear would be a nice option. Here are couple links worth reading.

https://www.jackstransmissions.com/b...on-gear-ratios

http://www.teamrip.com/tech-info/

 

ok. I will take your advice. thanks

 

We are doing an evo 9 first gear and keeping the evo 8 2-5 gears. I decided to stay with the factory final drive for the time being. The hardest part is that i've only driven the car for all of 40 minutes so I don't know if i'd like all the gear changes since I don't even know how the stock gearing is. I wish i could have had some seat time before it blew up.

 

You can always change it later. Its just important to remember the Evo is a rally car at heart. Its geared short for shenanigans .

 

ok. i ordered the exedy twin hd with an act monloc, oem tob and stainless steel upper/lower clutch lines.

 

Do you use an OEM TB and monoloc with a twin?

 

With the exedy, yes.

 

I have not had a problem with the 6 puck holding over 450ft-lbs at the wheels so curious as to the issue you experienced. Depending on the pressure plate selected, HD vs XT, it is rated from 678ft-lbs to 787ft-lbs.

 

I know you've had great luck with that clutch and what its rated for. But I didn't have the same outcome.
I ran the 6 puck/HD plate with the 4.11 final drive at 400-450ft lbs. With a proper 300-500 mile breakin ( stop and go) the entire face of the pucks had a chance to bed properly it was ok. Pretty happy with it at that point.

Now, my 10:1 2.2 MHI red hits like a hammer and will make 480-500 lb ft around 4000-4400 Comparing it to your setup my car is a different animal at 4000 with the red, E85 and proper timing. It snaps on. The clutch in this case is the fuse.

Once I broke in the next 6 puck then ran it harder it was toast at 3K miles. I believe the taller final drive is a factor and the small hard hitting turbo on proper timing is a large factor. I do drive this car very hard but its not launched often. With the setup I had I would run 28-32psi in first and second with very little or no wheelspin.

I moved into the exedy twin for more surface area to handle the power.