I keep seeing people that say this one works:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/122581687391

But I don't see how you would get the keepers in/out. SuggestIons, please?

 

That picture doesnt show you the design very well so take a look at this (its the copy of the other one)

https://www.ebay.com/itm/MITSUBISHI-....c101195.m1851

The piece pushes down onto the retainer and then bc its hollow and there is a little window you then just go in with a lil magnet/ pick tool tool to remove the two keepers and boom off comes the spring and retainer and out comes the valve.

 

Aha! Got it. That makes much more sense. Gracias, dude.


Now. Do I just use a leakdown kit to pressurize the cylinder?

 

I find it easier to put engine at TDC and just let valves drop slightly to the piston on cylinders 1 and 3. When done, place cams back in with a few caps along with cam gears and rotate to get cylinders 2 and 4 at TDC and repeat. Done this a few times and seemed most convenient without any risk of dropping a valve.

 

How are you keeping the valves up while reinstalling? I haven't had to do any of this, so unsure.
Also, is it obvious where the retainers and keepers go?

 

from memory the valve barely drops so you don’t have to do anything other than compress the spring with the tool. Yes, once you compress the spring and retainer it exposes the keepers so just grab them with a magnet. It’s simple.

 

I bought this one a couple of weeks ago(haven't used it yet).

 

When i did my springs i used the tube from a compression tester as i didnt have a leakdown tester. I just took the little check valve off the tube. You'll need a large supply of air pressure unless you want to hear the compressor constantly kick on.

 

I meant when I go to put everything back together, how will I know how far down the valve to put the retainer and keepers? Is there a line? A notch?

 

Google a picture of a valve and then come back and report back about the new wrinkle in your brain

 

what about putting a small piece of rope or string in the spark plug hole to "fill" the cylinder and prevent valves falling...

 

the end of the valve has a machined groove for the keepers. Once you compress the spring by pushing down the retainer the valve stem with keepers will protrude past the retainer. Another reason to let the valve drop to the piston at TDC is because the retainer doesn’t always like to separate from the keepers when just compressing the spring. By having the valve resting on the piston it can’t move, which helps the retainer to separate from the keepers as you compress the spring. Hope this makes sense.

 

Perfectly. Thank you! 👍

 

one more thing... If the engine has been running for a long time the valve locks might stick inside of the spring hat. What I usually do is put a socket on the hat and give it a tap with a hammer... make sure the piston is down at that point..

 

If you end up getting a valve spring tool, this is the one I got. Probably one of the cheapest out there. Worked fine. Shoot, if you want to borrow it, just PM me and I will send it your way.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-Valve...kAAOSwHGxdH~1M