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PLEASE HELP! Take a look at my timing belt tension.
I have a new build that I put together and I'm having second thoughts on the timing belt tension. At TDC it's very loose, but anywhere else it's pretty firm once I rotate the motor. When I originally installed the timing belt, I tensioned it about 3 times since it felt loose, but I figured that it was OK, since I basically triple checked it and went over the instructions from multiple sources. If you can take a look at the video and let me know what you think, I'd appreciate it!
That's not how you check it. You pull the tensioner grenade pin and turn crank 6 revolutions and wait 30 minutes before putting pin back. It should go in and out easily if done right. The belt between the cam gears always tighten up when engine is running.
That's not how you check it. You pull the tensioner grenade pin and turn crank 6 revolutions and wait 30 minutes before putting pin back. It should go in and out easily if done right. The belt between the cam gears always tighten up when engine is running.
trust this man! I had tensioning questions and he helped me sort it out. The freedom of the grenade pin after a few compete revolutions is the best method to verify correct tension.
Sorry for the confusion. So yeah, I did it the way that you described. I followed the Boosted Films video on Youtube, then also checked other sources to confirm that I was doing it correctly. When I was tensioning the belt, it felt loose, so I retried tensioning it multiple times to see if anything changed, but the belt felt the same each time. I did this with the motor out of the car and was very careful, so unless I totally missed something I think that I did it correctly. My issue is just that at TDC the belt seems loose and once I rotate the motor slightly towards the end of the video it tightens up. I just wanted to see if that looks normal to you?
That is way too loose at TDC.
1. Check again with the pin and make sure its sliding all the way in and out freely. There is a hole in the shaft and in the body of the tensioner, they should line up together.
2. Make sure the tensioner is not leaking or otherwise damaged. Is it new or used? They can go bad and lose tension. Maybe test it by hand and try to push the shaft in to test tension.
3. Make sure all timing marks line up at TDC (cam gears, both balance shaft locations, crank pulley/ trigger plate).
4. Make sure the tensioner pulley (with 2 holes for the special tool) is aligned properly with the holes downward in the 4:30-ish o'clock position.
5. Make sure the tensioner arm can move freely and is not sticking.
6. Make sure you didn't leave the rod tool in on the tension arm which would prevent the tensioner from applying adequate force on the belt.
7. Check part number on the belt and make sure you have the correct length belt.
Yeah, I wish that I would have posted this before I put the motor back in the car. But it looks like I might need to take it apart again to double check. I do have a pic of when the motor was out of the car and timed.
1. I did that multiple times when I installed it. Set tension, rotated motor, let it sit, then retested the pin. Each time the tension of the belt felt the same.
2. Tensioner and all parts were brand new gates pieces. I bought the whole set from STM.
3. Check out the pic. I think that everything lines up.
Picture looks good to me. For peace of mind, I will always use oem parts.
Originally Posted by pharcydeabc
Yeah, I wish that I would have posted this before I put the motor back in the car. But it looks like I might need to take it apart again to double check. I do have a pic of when the motor was out of the car and timed.
1. I did that multiple times when I installed it. Set tension, rotated motor, let it sit, then retested the pin. Each time the tension of the belt felt the same.
2. Tensioner and all parts were brand new gates pieces. I bought the whole set from STM.
3. Check out the pic. I think that everything lines up.
Next time I'll go OEM for peace of mind. What do you think about the video? Is that much play in the belt at TDC normal?
It is normal for belt to loosen up once engine shuts off and exhaust cam seats itself backwards a bit. What I look for is when engine starts, the belt stays centered on cam gear and not start to slip off. What cams are you running? The cams control how much bounce you get when engine shuts off and loosens the belt between the cams.
It is normal for belt to loosen up once engine shuts off and exhaust cam seats itself backwards a bit. What I look for is when engine starts, the belt stays centered on cam gear and not start to slip off. What cams are you running? The cams control how much bounce you get when engine shuts off and loosens the belt between the cams.
I'm running the GSC S2, GSC Zero Tick Lifters, Kiggly Valvetrain, & 4Piston Ported Head. I haven't fired up the motor yet, but just want to get this figured out before I take it to get tuned.
Research your zero tick lifters. Do a quick check to make sure you have intake cam on back side and exhaust cam on front side. Picture looks good and everything appears to be tight. Double check that all bolts are tightened (especially the tensioner bearing).
Research your zero tick lifters. Do a quick check to make sure you have intake cam on back side and exhaust cam on front side. Picture looks good and everything appears to be tight. Double check that all bolts are tightened (especially the tensioner bearing).
When I installed the GSC Zero Tick Lifters, I did research online and there was a ton of conflicting information on "Bleeding". I followed GSC's instructions where I submerged the lifter in oil, then pumped it until it was full of oil, fully extended, and stiff. Other sources that I found online, said to do the opposite and basically remove all of the oil from the lifter so that it's squishy. Would either method affect the slack of the timing belt?
When I installed the GSC Zero Tick Lifters, I did research online and there was a ton of conflicting information on "Bleeding". I followed GSC's instructions where I submerged the lifter in oil, then pumped it until it was full of oil, fully extended, and stiff. Other sources that I found online, said to do the opposite and basically remove all of the oil from the lifter so that it's squishy. Would either method affect the slack of the timing belt?
The best advice I can give you is to think for yourself.
When the engine is at rest, the timing belt will loosen once the cams find low points. The lifters are needed to keep rockers tight against cam lobes at all times. I never understand how you can put in fully filled lifters because it no longer lifts to fill any slack (as lobes wear down). Also, if lifters are too pumped up, it won't allow your valves to close.
I use oem lifters and bleed them down so that each rocker is "squishy" where I can press down a little with cams installed (if completely empty, it will take longer to fill up).
But the main idea is to install them squishy so that valves do fully close. As cam pumps the lifters by pressing rockers down, it will start to fill up with oil and then your valves will slowly open to the cam design.
Also, you really don't know if it is "stiff" by pressing with your fingers. Valve springs get to 150psi pressure and I don't think you can come close to holding that pressure before launching your lifter across the room
And answer to your question is lifters are not why your timing belt is loose. Check the tensioner bearing bolt holding that beaing with 2 holes. If your belt is loose, that bolt may not be tightened enough and is slipping. Your belt will fall off if this comes loose.
