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Hi. I know that there were many topics similar to mine, but my case seems to be more complicated and I couldn't find any answer yet.
So I have tuned Evo IX (430 HP / 560 Nm) with a large BorgWarner twin-scroll turbo capable of doing 3 bar. This is not perfect turbo for about 500 HP (I use 1.9 bar and it starts to spin in about 4000 RPM) but thats what I got from previous owner. My problem is oil temperature, mostly reaching optimal 80 C (176 F). In summer after starting it and normal cruise its nearly impossible to reach it. Only when I push the car hard it worms up perfectly. But now in winter time it's much worse. Many mechanics here told me that I shouldn't use turbo before my oil reaches 60 C (140 F). But that means going not higher than 4000 RPM and it take ages to get even to this 60 C. Only when I start to pull it 5000 - 6000 RPM it starts to worm up quicker. I don't know if its something wrong with my car?
Assuming your sensor/gauge is working, maybe you need to figure out what else was changed. Bigger oil pan? upgraded oil cooler? aftermarket oil thermostat?
I've replaced oil thermostat with new OEM one. I thought maybe previous owner installed some kind of modified one that 'opens' on lower temperature than stock. But it seems it had stock thermostat.
Oil pan seems to be stock.
I'm not sure if oil cooler is stock, I couldn't find any serial number. I took pictures though, maybe someone can tell if its stock?
Also I have Innovate 3913 (3852) MTX-D oil temp/pressure gauge but I'm not sure if the sensor should be mounted on the side of oil pan? It has a little oil leak.
I've made some tests after replacing thermostat. It was 8 C (46 F) outside and even if I pull the car really hard it get maybe to 70 C (158 F). Then when I cruise along with normal speed it drops even to 40 C or less (seems like air cools it very fast).
That's not the stock oil cooler but that does not look "too efficient" at cooling. Stock one look like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/14388000778...IAAOSwI~df0PLE
Someone here told me they cover their oil coolers during winter. Try that, put some cardboard in front of the cooler and test
FYI, I have an RS it came with an Oil Drain plug temp sender. That is completely useless in the winter. Yours is mounted better but still may not read correctly in the winter. Glow shift makes a filter adapter that put the sensor in the flow path of the oil. I will buy one at some point and tap it to fit the oil plug sensor. What you want is temp of the flowing oil not a dead spot on the outside of the pan.
I put my Oil temp sensor in the oil filter housing. It reads the temp before it gets to the oil cooler. I ran in in the oil pan before and had the same results you are having.
The oil will be hotter at the oil filter housing then the pan. I saw a 20* decrease when I moved the sensor from the housing to the pan (where it belongs)
I'm running a racefab pan and stock oil cooler, with the front end block off. I still have issues with getting the oil up to temp in mild 70* conditions. If it rains or its cooler out then its a struggle to get the oil over 140*
You may want to bypass the cooler in the winter months. The Evo has one of the best cooling systems and would be fine without the cooler if its not being tracked IMO.
Those are options, I just like to keep things simple when it comes to oil control. My first question would be , who is running one of those on an Evo @8000-9000? How long has it been in service?
Those are options, I just like to keep things simple when it comes to oil control. My first question would be , who is running one of those on an Evo @8000-9000? How long has it been in service?
you dont need a racecar to test this theory. A lot of pickup/hauler trucks use them as bypass for their transmission coolers. I'm sure theres some data out there how long until these need to be serviced or replaced. I could try it out after my oil cooler install. I dont have a gauge though so chances are over-cooling wouldnt bother me lol