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Here are my thoughts on a 2.2 4g63 build. I've got a few of them and they work well.
Wiseco makes some nice stuff but I'm a CP fan. Some Shelf or custom CP options for the 94/150 setup. Also If you use a 2.3 piston the compression will be even lower then advertised with a 94mm crank. A coated Skirt would be a nice upgrade.
CP Carrillo rods are always a good choice for less then 1100hp. Light weight and strong.
If you are going for 800hp or so the 8.5-9:1 compression ratio is nice. If you are going for more power or are using lower octane fuel, then 8:1 will buy you some safety and you can always add more timing or boost to make up the compression difference.
I would upgrade to a .230-.250 wall pin depending on power Or move into a .200-.210 upgraded Trend pin to save weight.
Consider an oil pan upgrade if its on sticky tires or making 800hp+. Moroso as stg1, race fab as stg2, infinite evo as stg3, dry sump for full race. FWIW, I'm running a Moroso pan 1/2 qt over full and 950whp-1000whp with no issues on a drag radial.
English racing oil pump gear for 9500+ rpm all the time.
Stock headgasket
Lightly ported or stock head for moderate power. Full race port for 800hp+
Ferrea stock size valves for 800hp. oversize beyond that.
Kiggly HLA
Upgraded intake manifold after 800hp+
Stock or 65mm Throttle body for less then 800hp+. Larger beyond that.
GSC S2 or S3 cams or Kelford 280 or 288's. Depending on power goals. Bigger cams move the power band more to the right and will run worse at low speeds. Turbo choice also plays a role. If its a stock frame turbo an S2 should work better then an S3 because RPM's will be kept below 8000/8500. Correct springs to go with cam choice.
Kelfords were not tested but they make nice stuff and perform well.
OEM lifters or GSC, https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/showc...final-results/
Wiseco makes some nice stuff but I'm a CP fan. Some Shelf or custom CP options for the 94/150 setup. Also If you use a 2.3 piston the compression will be even lower then advertised with a 94mm crank. A coated Skirt would be a nice upgrade.
CP Carrillo rods are always a good choice for less then 1100hp. Light weight and strong.
If you are going for 800hp or so the 8.5-9:1 compression ratio is nice. If you are going for more power or are using lower octane fuel, then 8:1 will buy you some safety and you can always add more timing or boost to make up the compression difference.
I would upgrade to a .230-.250 wall pin depending on power Or move into a .200-.210 upgraded Trend pin to save weight.
GSC S2 or S3 cams or Kelford 280 or 288's. Depending on power goals. Bigger cams move the power band more to the right and will run worse at low speeds. Turbo choice also plays a role. If its a stock frame turbo an S2 should work better then an S3 because RPM's will be kept below 8000/8500. https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/showc...final-results/
I should have mentioned my requirements on the OG post. So why Im building the engine is because its long overdue for one and without just going 2.0L Forged I wanted to step it up to 2.2 or 2.3 Stroker, as I can go with bigger turbos and I will not be using E85 since thats not available in my part of the world It will always be pump gas and maybe watermeth to componsate I can get the 94mm crank and I already have 150mm I beam rods I just can't get my head around to what Pistons I should go with I think 8.5-9 compratio would be ideal since I will only be running Pump gas 90% of the time. And thanks for the insight on the cams.
@Abacus Btw Will the stock head gasket hold 600 + ? Will I need to put copper or stainless O rings ? And what headbolts should be best they say getting bigger just weakens the block by drilling and thining out.
@Abacus Btw Will the stock head gasket hold 600 + ? Will I need to put copper or stainless O rings ? And what headbolts should be best they say getting bigger just weakens the block by drilling and thining out.
A stock Headgasket on a 4g63 will hold north of 1000whp with good fuel and tuning. If you rattle anything hard enough, something will give.
As Mike said, lower compression will be a good thing for pump fuel. Early DSM's were 7.8:1. A set of std ARP or ARP 625's bolts is fine. Boost , fuel and timing are more important then a set of larger head bolts IMO on these engines.
Here are my thoughts on a 2.2 4g63 build. I've got a few of them and they work well.
Wiseco makes some nice stuff but I'm a CP fan. Some Shelf or custom CP options for the 94/150 setup. Also If you use a 2.3 piston the compression will be even lower then advertised with a 94mm crank. A coated Skirt would be a nice upgrade.
CP Carrillo rods are always a good choice for less then 1100hp. Light weight and strong.
If you are going for 800hp or so the 8.5-9:1 compression ratio is nice. If you are going for more power or are using lower octane fuel, then 8:1 will buy you some safety and you can always add more timing or boost to make up the compression difference.
I would upgrade to a .230-.250 wall pin depending on power Or move into a .200-.210 upgraded Trend pin to save weight.
Consider an oil pan upgrade if its on sticky tires or making 800hp+. Moroso as stg1, race fab as stg2, infinite evo as stg3, dry sump for full race. FWIW, I'm running a Moroso pan 1/2 qt over full and 950whp-1000whp with no issues on a drag radial.
English racing oil pump gear for 9500+ rpm all the time.
Stock headgasket
Lightly ported or stock head for moderate power. Full race port for 800hp+
Ferrea stock size valves for 800hp. oversize beyond that.
Kiggly HLA
Upgraded intake manifold after 800hp+
Stock or 65mm Throttle body for less then 800hp+. Larger beyond that.
GSC S2 or S3 cams or Kelford 280 or 288's. Depending on power goals. Bigger cams move the power band more to the right and will run worse at low speeds. Turbo choice also plays a role. If its a stock frame turbo an S2 should work better then an S3 because RPM's will be kept below 8000/8500. Correct springs to go with cam choice.
Kelfords were not tested but they make nice stuff and perform well.
OEM lifters or GSC, https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/showc...final-results/
What are your power goals and turbo choices?
I kinda find this way out of date although it is good info. They have none of the newer Kelfords on there amongst some other cams as well. But the rest of what you said I 100% agree with.
To the op I run Manley pro pistons. They are good enough for 1600 whp race cars good for mine with a 2.2. Part number 619020CE-4 but you have to modify the hg a little
Last edited by CurseDSM; Feb 27, 2023 at 02:55 PM.
ran 36psi on 10:1 2L on 93 pump for 60k+ miles with no issues. Run 35psi on my 9:1 2.15L on 93 pump and make 660whp. Not sure about all the negativity regarding compression. Built my vr38 with 10:1 for 93 pump, but not yet running.
ran 36psi on 10:1 2L on 93 pump for 60k+ miles with no issues. Run 35psi on my 9:1 2.15L on 93 pump and make 660whp. Not sure about all the negativity regarding compression. Built my vr38 with 10:1 for 93 pump, but not yet running.
Where is this thread going to I mean if we are flexing setups big deal I've run 65 psi on my 2.2 and made over 1200 whp and it's lasted 10k miles with no issues other than my crank sensor going out on me. I switched turbos and will make 900 plus whp now. What does any of this have to do with what the op was asking?
Where is this thread going to I mean if we are flexing setups big deal I've run 65 psi on my 2.2 and made over 1200 whp and it's lasted 10k miles with no issues other than my crank sensor going out on me. I switched turbos and will make 900 plus whp now. What does any of this have to do with what the op was asking?
😂
he is being advised not to run 9:1 on pump so I’m simply posting that high compression and high boost are ok on 93 pump given my results. I would add that a big part of that is not chocking the turbine wheel (min of 62mm exducer) as the car is substantially less knock prone vs the ridiculously small 30r turbines a lot of people run.
he is being advised not to run 9:1 on pump so I’m simply posting that high compression and high boost are ok on 93 pump given my results. I would add that a big part of that is not chocking the turbine wheel (min of 62mm exducer) as the car is substantially less knock prone vs the ridiculously small 30r turbines a lot of people run.