big problem, please help
big problem, please help
Whats up guys,
So my car is broken. I "think" from the symptoms that i popped off an intercooler hose, or i have a leak, but i cannot figure out where it is coming from.
I did a couple searches, and it seems like most people that are hanving their IC hoses pop off is happening where it connect to the TB
My hose is completely tight there. I also tighetned up the other hoses too.
its only holding about .7-.8 bar of boost, so like 10 psi.
every now and then, it will hold 1.3 bar again, but suddenly ill hear this popping sound, and it will jolt like its hitting fuel cut...
any suggestions?
So my car is broken. I "think" from the symptoms that i popped off an intercooler hose, or i have a leak, but i cannot figure out where it is coming from.
I did a couple searches, and it seems like most people that are hanving their IC hoses pop off is happening where it connect to the TB
My hose is completely tight there. I also tighetned up the other hoses too.
its only holding about .7-.8 bar of boost, so like 10 psi.
every now and then, it will hold 1.3 bar again, but suddenly ill hear this popping sound, and it will jolt like its hitting fuel cut...
any suggestions?
Sounds like the solenoid, or the hose going to it.. If its cut or broken or the solenoid is jammed, it will overboost and cause fuel/boost cut.. if its only maintaining 10psi it can mean its completely blocked.. It could be your gauge is reading incorrectly due to where its installed also and its overboosting.
Also, if you tapped into your BOV line to run a gauge, its possible that the hose is leaking or blocked allowing the Valve to open (though a pop sound is not something it would make)
as an FYI.. if you were to disconnect the solenoid line from the solenoid (going to the T-Connector that runs between the actuator and scroll housing) it will overboost, if you plug it completely, it will run at about 10.5psi..
Also, if you tapped into your BOV line to run a gauge, its possible that the hose is leaking or blocked allowing the Valve to open (though a pop sound is not something it would make)
as an FYI.. if you were to disconnect the solenoid line from the solenoid (going to the T-Connector that runs between the actuator and scroll housing) it will overboost, if you plug it completely, it will run at about 10.5psi..
I know you said you checked you i/c pipe connection to the throttle body but check the underside of the rubber coupling where it connects to the TB, the other day I had symptoms JUST like this when I deciced to make some little frat boy that thought he was the man in his BMW 325 my b-yatch in an uphill sprint, smoked him but as I was coming to the top of the hill the car stuttered, felt like fuel cut then started running like crap until I let off a bit, ran good until I hit 10 psi again. Pulled over, everything "looked" good, started feeling around because I knew what it was, and sure enough the bottom part of the coupling had worked it's way off just enough to where it would hold until about 10 psi where it would leak bad, turns out that I didn't have my t-bolt clamp all the way up against the TB and had allowed the couple to pop off a bit, watch out if you do install a t-bolt clamp in this spot as they're bands are a bit wider that our stock clamps so you need to be very sure that they are catching the seat bead or whatever it's called on our stock piping.
ok. so heres the deal. I checked ALL the piping, and the solenoid, and no luck. There was a tiny pin-point hole in the hose where the boost restrictor pill as (before i took it out for the Xede), but it wasn't deep enough to pierce the thick-walled hose.
So completely clueless as to what could be wrong, i took my Xede unit out, and now everything is working fine.
But that doesn't ease my worry. I heard something physical "pop" when my car jolted. Am i going crazy?
So completely clueless as to what could be wrong, i took my Xede unit out, and now everything is working fine.
But that doesn't ease my worry. I heard something physical "pop" when my car jolted. Am i going crazy?
Before you took Exede out, did you test drive again to see if it still had probs? I am guessing you tightened things when you "checked all piping" If you are sure that you isolated the problem by removing Exede, put it back in to confirm. Otherwise it is too hard to determine.
mr decible,
i didn't have the time to put it back and check, but i did drive the car after tightening everything, and it did indeed still show the above-mentioned symptoms.
car has been running perfect ever since the xede came out. Im brining it up to Shiv probably in the next month to get it tuned properly
i didn't have the time to put it back and check, but i did drive the car after tightening everything, and it did indeed still show the above-mentioned symptoms.
car has been running perfect ever since the xede came out. Im brining it up to Shiv probably in the next month to get it tuned properly
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hey man, i know this is extremely frustrating. i used to have this same problem in an 87' conquest TSI. it had heavy internal and external mods done. DOES YOURS? anyway, it turned out the wiring harnes on the injectores went bad. how, i have no clue. got new ones from mitsu, and everything was fine. "this problem was diagnosed by my mechanic and not me". if you are running more than stock boost and significant engine modificcations getting bigger injectors should be a priority. good luck!
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