It was SFAC tuned @ AMS in Chicago w/ all my mods, incuding 680s and 272 prior to the dynoflash added in. That's the difference, it wasn't tuned with Dynoflash is my guess why I'm having stalling issues now.

I'm running a Forge recirc valve w/red spring.

I leaned out the idle for low throttle... see above a couple replies to see my settings.

what'cha think?

thanks nonetheless for the reply!

Joe

 

So did it do it again this morning?

 

I don't drive it everyday for other reasons...

I'm going to check the maf sensor tonight and start her up when I get home around 8pm CST. I have the SFAC settings already in place from last night before I turned her off...

Cross your butts!

Joe

 

uhm try your STOCK recirc? or the green spring in it.

 

The stock recirc valve was in the car originally, swapped with Forge w/red spring because it was leaking a bit.

I will swap w/green spring after I try the new SAFC settings and checking my MAF tonight!

I will update the thread accordingly! This is good info for everyone

thanks. Joe

 

ok becuase i had issues with mine until i did the green spring

 

dont do the green spring.. doesn't hold enough boost..

i bet it's the maf that's all nasty from the oil..

also the tuning will fix a lot of it..

lastly, the cam gears ...

 

mine held 21 lbs...but i'm not a tuner so what do i know

 

hm.. well .. it doesnt work that way for me.. much weaker with that spring (the green one is the weakest of all of them) and less responsive as well..

personally i had best drivability/performance results with yellow.. but blue held even more solid boost all the way to redline, and red is even better!

to each their own i guess?

 

yes true, however i found with the yellow even at 0 (boost/vac) when i switched to green, it released, so it was more responsive, so i thought. i know others have had issues with this recirc, becuase of the springs. mine came with blue in it. and i tried yellow and green and had the best results with green. i never tried red, becuase it is the hardest, i think the best bet would be a combo between green and yellow while i had better luck with green, i understand what you say about ther stiffness of the green one.

 

the green one is definitely the easiest to drive.. but just didnt do the job for me.. car even felt much weaker with it..

i was fine with yellow until i got the downpipe.. then it definitely couldnt hold anymore.. kept fluttering.. so i went to blue and then finally red..

red's not as easy to drive, but it doesnt bother me.

 

People get a little surge now and then with the blue. I wonder how much you are getting with the red... and I wonder how long your turbo will last if it is an issue.

 

I am having same issue. I am using the 1G BOV (Crushed). Both of our probleam appear to be related to fuel. Symptoms appeared after injector/pump installs. Parts were purchased from different sources. Spoke with Joe on the phone and we are sure problems are exact. Hopefully we will find closure.

 

Keep us updated...

 

I put stock injectors back in, put settings on AFC back down to 0 across board and car idles with no problem. So that takes the fuel pump out of the equation. So right now as it stands, car works fine with stocks, erratic with 680s. Could one bad injector cause the symptoms described? Problem has to lye within injectors. Are they (or one)having problems at low settings possibly?