New plugs, DV changed... still STALLING!
Here's my update...
Yesterday I got home around 7pm and unplugged the (-) connector to the battery to clear the ECU. Next I started taking apart the airbox to check the MAF sensor area for oil...
I found that the ENTIRE MAF and sensor were covered in oil and almost dripping out of the airbox!... I guess I put toooooo much!
So I use some electrical part cleaner to clean the area and let it sit for about 30 min to dry. The entire MAF and sensor is cleaned and free of oil and I also made sure the filter didn't have any excess oil that it shouldn't have...
So at about 7:40 I put everything back together and start the car... GUESS WHAT...
The cars idle jumps to 1500 or so and then drops off to 400 or so and THEN DIES AGAIN!!!
At this point I'm a little frustrated... So I start the car again and just drive it around. Mind you, the car has been sitting in the car for about a day... The car drives fine when warm, but idle seems to take a dip more than usual, but nonetheless when warm it's drivable, or tolerable I would say.
I get home around 8pm and decide to clear the ECU again... I unplug the (-) connector to the battery and wait...
2hrs later at 10pm, I connect the battery back up and start her up...
THE CAR IDLES LIKE IT DID BEFORE... STARTED AT 1500 - 1200 for a minute or so and the settled at 900 or so.
If you would ask me what I did, I would tell you that I cleaned the MAF area and sensor and disconnected the battery for 2hr... and that's what did it.
Does this make any sense?
Well, this morning I start the car up at 6am (car been in the garage for about 8hrs w/o being started, so I would consider this a cold start)...
Same thing, car idles at 1500 - 1200 and then drops to 900 or so after a couple of minutes.
These are my questions...
1) How does it take to clear the ECU?
2) Should there be a difference between 30 min and 2hr of having the battery disconnected?
3) Assuming that the cleaning the MAF area and sensor did do the trick, I'm guessing the first time I tried to start the car and it died... the ECU was still trying to compensate for the mest up readings from when the MAF area and sensor were all oiled up... So when I cleared the ECU for a longer period of time, the ECU was able to re-adjust itself and able to get accurate readings at cold start?
As it stands now, the car is ok, I GUESS
thanks all!
Joe
Yesterday I got home around 7pm and unplugged the (-) connector to the battery to clear the ECU. Next I started taking apart the airbox to check the MAF sensor area for oil...
I found that the ENTIRE MAF and sensor were covered in oil and almost dripping out of the airbox!... I guess I put toooooo much!
So I use some electrical part cleaner to clean the area and let it sit for about 30 min to dry. The entire MAF and sensor is cleaned and free of oil and I also made sure the filter didn't have any excess oil that it shouldn't have...
So at about 7:40 I put everything back together and start the car... GUESS WHAT...
The cars idle jumps to 1500 or so and then drops off to 400 or so and THEN DIES AGAIN!!!
At this point I'm a little frustrated... So I start the car again and just drive it around. Mind you, the car has been sitting in the car for about a day... The car drives fine when warm, but idle seems to take a dip more than usual, but nonetheless when warm it's drivable, or tolerable I would say.
I get home around 8pm and decide to clear the ECU again... I unplug the (-) connector to the battery and wait...
2hrs later at 10pm, I connect the battery back up and start her up...
THE CAR IDLES LIKE IT DID BEFORE... STARTED AT 1500 - 1200 for a minute or so and the settled at 900 or so.
If you would ask me what I did, I would tell you that I cleaned the MAF area and sensor and disconnected the battery for 2hr... and that's what did it.
Does this make any sense?
Well, this morning I start the car up at 6am (car been in the garage for about 8hrs w/o being started, so I would consider this a cold start)...
Same thing, car idles at 1500 - 1200 and then drops to 900 or so after a couple of minutes.
These are my questions...
1) How does it take to clear the ECU?
2) Should there be a difference between 30 min and 2hr of having the battery disconnected?
3) Assuming that the cleaning the MAF area and sensor did do the trick, I'm guessing the first time I tried to start the car and it died... the ECU was still trying to compensate for the mest up readings from when the MAF area and sensor were all oiled up... So when I cleared the ECU for a longer period of time, the ECU was able to re-adjust itself and able to get accurate readings at cold start?
As it stands now, the car is ok, I GUESS

thanks all!
Joe
Originally Posted by kiss_my_s
Quickshift: how low does your idle go in the morning... mine sometimes drops to 500 rpms, does yours get that low... Also what is your Low Throttle and High Throttle percentage set at?
93civEK1: So you are saying this won't work?
Correct me if I'm wrong: During cold start the car is in "open loop" for a bit before the car idles and settles... at that point the car is in "closed loop"... and the ECU take over at 14.7:1 ratio, hence after the car is warm the low throttle settings will not make any difference.
93civEK1: So you are saying this won't work?

Correct me if I'm wrong: During cold start the car is in "open loop" for a bit before the car idles and settles... at that point the car is in "closed loop"... and the ECU take over at 14.7:1 ratio, hence after the car is warm the low throttle settings will not make any difference.
When the throttle position is at zero you can still make adjustments without it affecting the ecu affecting on either loop even after it warms up. It doesn't switch till a specific loop until it hit 1% position. EvoMotorsports and Buschur recommend doing this exact same thing.
Last edited by GTVEVO; May 7, 2004 at 07:02 AM.
Originally Posted by GTVEVO
When the throttle position is at zero you can still make adjustments without it affecting the ecu affecting on either loop even after it warms up. It doesn't switch till a specific loop until it hit 1% position. EvoMotorsports and Buschur recommend doing this exact same thing.
So that means that I can fine tune my idle with my SFAC.
My settings for low throttle are -3@800 thru 1200.
Seems to be better, but that will probably change
Joe
Originally Posted by kiss_my_s
[COLOR=RoyalBlue]Here's my update...
These are my questions...
1) How does it take to clear the ECU?
2) Should there be a difference between 30 min and 2hr of having the battery disconnected?
3) Assuming that the cleaning the MAF area and sensor did do the trick, I'm guessing the first time I tried to start the car and it died... the ECU was still trying to compensate for the mest up readings from when the MAF area and sensor were all oiled up... So when I cleared the ECU for a longer period of time, the ECU was able to re-adjust itself and able to get accurate readings at cold start?
As it stands now, the car is ok, I GUESS
thanks all!
Joe
These are my questions...
1) How does it take to clear the ECU?
2) Should there be a difference between 30 min and 2hr of having the battery disconnected?
3) Assuming that the cleaning the MAF area and sensor did do the trick, I'm guessing the first time I tried to start the car and it died... the ECU was still trying to compensate for the mest up readings from when the MAF area and sensor were all oiled up... So when I cleared the ECU for a longer period of time, the ECU was able to re-adjust itself and able to get accurate readings at cold start?
As it stands now, the car is ok, I GUESS

thanks all!
Joe
Very interesting but I don't think 30 min was long enough without pushing down the brake pedel or somthing. If you can when you disconnect the battery or ecu go push down the brake for about 60 sec or so to bleed the rest of the power out of the ECU forcing it to reset. I am sure that the oil was part of your problem then it could of been a little bit of cleaner still causing it who knows but just keep testing it and tuning it out. With out pushing the brake down I have always been told that 60+ min just for a rule of thumb to reset by my dad but I have no proof of that is when it is actually triggered by my dad is a master mechanic for DSM with 27 years of experience.
I'm pretty sure that the oil filled MAF and sensor did play a role in the idle/stalling issue... it's just seemed wierd that the 2nd time I let the car sit even longer seemed to do the trick to clear the ECU.
We'll see... obvioulsy I still need to wideband the thing (next week), ... but I'm better now then yesterday, that's for sure!
I did here about the brake thing... I will make sure to do that all the time when I clear the ECU to help drain the power from the car!
Joe
We'll see... obvioulsy I still need to wideband the thing (next week), ... but I'm better now then yesterday, that's for sure!
I did here about the brake thing... I will make sure to do that all the time when I clear the ECU to help drain the power from the car!
Joe
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