kiss_my_s

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys... I ended up changing out the stock plug and diverter Monday with the help of Emil@renn-art.

The new NGK plugs and Forge DV totally helped out the idle in general... more steady and everything seemed to be fine after the car sat around for a couple hours to do the install and restarted ok… idle was steady.

I started the car this morning after a day of the car chillin out in the garage ( I don’t drive the car everyday)... The temp in Chicago land is around this morning was around ~40 - 50 deg.

The car stalled out three times. I had to drive it around just to get the temp up so the car would be ok. When the car is warm, or after a couple minutes it is fine... The rpm would go from 13-1500 and then drop to 5-600rpm and stall the car…

Here are my mods...

HKS 272 Intake and Exhaust Cams (no cam gears yet!)
680cc injectors
Dynoflash (mail-in)
upgraded grounding kit
K&N drop-in filter
SAFCII (settings @ zero)
255 Walbro Fuel Pump

A little more info may help.

Before I got Dynoflash my cold start idle would be jumpy but it wouldn't stall out the car. After two days of having Dynoflash... this started happening.

I really think it's because the car is has not been tuned with the Dynoflash mail-in flash. The car was originally tuned without Dynoflash and it's only after that the problems started to occur.

Dynoflash is awesome though, just need a tune I think

What do you guys think...?

I'm going to have the car tuned this week, but till then I'm going to adjust the afc at 800 rpms and 1000 rpms and take out some fuel... start at - 2% and go from there to -10%. I think the car is just drowning in fuel at cold start idle during open loop operation, as opposed to closed loop when the car is warm and idling @ ~900rpms (after ~2 min)

Here's what I checked already...

1) plugs and dv changed!
2) air filter cleaned
3) boost lines checked
4) Boost is steady at 20 psi

any help would be great!

thanks again.

Joe

EvolvedfromaWRX

iTrader: (7)

its definately the tune of your car, before my car was custom dyno tuned by turbotrix, the car would stall... it was because of the intake i noticed. now it never stalls and is smooth as anything.

metaphysical

iTrader: (3)

1st: Let your car idle for 3 minutes before you drive it.
2nd: A lot of people having stalling problems under certain load conditions with an aftermarket airfilter. I do.

kiss_my_s

iTrader: (6)

1) The car will not stay on long enough for 3 min, let alone 5 sec after a cold start.

2) What aftermarket airfilter do you have? I have a drop-in K&N. I re-oiled and dropped in recently when this whole thing started...

Quickshift

iTrader: (4)

Lean out your car more man!!! Mail in flash doesnt do much with the fuel at idle speed. I have mine at -8 any more and it will stall. To much fuel !!!Mine hasnt stalled out on me yet!!! I got close to the same mods well a little more but i am running a s-afc II, I got cam gears but there set at 0 for now. -8 and you will see an improvement at idle. I set my first NE pt at 800 second is 1800.

kiss_my_s

iTrader: (6)

Quickshift: I just changed my settings to:

Low throttle:

800 = -8%
1000 = -8%
1200 = -6%

Let's see if that helps... when I leave work today, in about 5 hours.

Yesterday when I left work before the plugs, dv, and these settigns now were changed... the car did stall!

I hope this works, my battery is probably suffering from all these damn starts!

Joe

Quickshift

iTrader: (4)

That should help ya out some when i first start mine in the morning . Its a harder start and sounds freaking mean lol but I guess thats what you get for running no cat.

93civEJ1

iTrader: (7)

even if you lean low throttle settings out in that area, you wont see a change because the computer learns it too quickly and readjust's itself for it, why do you think that most people with SAFC only adjust the high throttle point.

kiss_my_s

iTrader: (6)

Quickshift: how low does your idle go in the morning... mine sometimes drops to 500 rpms, does yours get that low... Also what is your Low Throttle and High Throttle percentage set at?

93civEK1: So you are saying this won't work?

Correct me if I'm wrong: During cold start the car is in "open loop" for a bit before the car idles and settles... at that point the car is in "closed loop"... and the ECU take over at 14.7:1 ratio, hence after the car is warm the low throttle settings will not make any difference.

TurbotrixRacing

iTrader: (21)

I would put your stock injectors back in ..680 is very overkill for your setup ..



Mark
turbotrix

you'll find your car will run alot better ..

kiss_my_s

iTrader: (6)

thanks for the info! But assuming I just leave them in, any suggestions

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

Check to see if your MAF is coated with oil... if it is, it will reek havoc. I had to clean mine after a K&N panel filter install. It was ****ing soaked! I DO NOT recommend brake cleaner, but I got away with using it...

kiss_my_s

iTrader: (6)

So you had the same issues at cold start, with stalling, and cleaning the sensor fixed it?

This whole thing started on Sat last week when after I cleaned my air filter and had dynoflash for a day or so before that... that was two most recent changes. I do remember coating the crap out of the filter after I cleaned it with the recharge K&N oil, Hopefully you are correct!!!

I will check it out... any guide to remove it

thanks!

Zeus

iTrader: (66)

You have a PM...

Coolguy949

iTrader: (10)

you need to tune your SAFC for the 680's and the 272 cams. That setup right there is a formular for mucho stall-age. Either lean out some more at idle or get rid of the 680's. You need to tune it for less fuel at idle though if you're gonna keep them in.

Also, are you recirculating your BOV??