I don't know why you say that. It is not like you have only two choices of clutches out there. But there is always some tradeoff. What are you willing to give up? Easy pedal effort? clutch life? smooth engagement? quietness? $$$$? engine response? shifting quickness? I think you can still find a good street setup that will engage smoothly and hold good power (and live).

This is not the place for me to get into the "us vs. them" or advertise, but let me give you an extreme example of tradeoffs within our own line. If you left everything stock except use our 6 puck race disc, you will gain at least 30% more torque capacity, stock pedal feel, way better heat/abuse tolerance, and very quick shifting for just over $100. Of course not too many people run this type of setup, and we seldom recommend it. Why? Because the tradeoffs are: fairly harsh engagement, shorter spline life (probably better than the stock clutch life though), and unnecessary noise.

No apologies though. It is meant for racing, not street use. Could we improve the 6 puck? If we hardened the splines more, then input shaft would wear out instead. No thanks! If we went to spring center, clutch chatter would increase and shifting would get slower. Don't like that either. If we went to less friction to improve engagement then it would hold less power. You get the point? There is always a tradeoff.

The main problem is that most people don't realize what they are buying and the tradeoffs are often hidden from the consumer just to make a sale. OK, I'll get off my soapbox now. Sorry.

 

Actman, Where can I get your six puck for just over $100. I'll take 10.

 

Very good info, ACTman.

I just can't believe no one has made a clutch that can hold 1000 lb-ft of torque, have stock pedal feel, easy engagement, and have a warranty not to break the driveline components.

 

Our advertised retail is $116.91, and we don't discount them (to keep our dealers happy), but you can usually find them for less elsewhere. We can process your order today, just give me your credit card number...

 

It's called a Powerglide! It has absolutely no pedal feel. You may have trouble getting it to fit though.

The biggest problem is the human factor. This is why Mitsu puts the restrictor in the clutch line. It eliminates the human factor. One guy (like John S) can drive really fast and be easy on parts and another will break just about anything. A powerglide takes away the human factor, but it takes away the fun too. Automatics are boring.

 

its good to see you post on here dirk, i learned alot from you back in 97 when i purchased a clutch from you and you showed me around your old shop on ave Q i believe it was.

also i didnt mean that all clutch companies just use a "big torque" wrench (even tho it sure sounded like i meant that), i was trying to state how the majority of these companies dont use very scientific methods for achieving there capacities. as far as clutches go i only recomend 2. clutchnet and act, which is why i refer to them only in my statements. and i only use act flywheels.

and i think you still remember how clutch masters got there start.

btw. that clutch was great.

 

Thanks for the kind words. Man, you should see our new shop! You wouldn't recognize it was the same business. We still have most of the old faces though, plus many new ones. Stop by if you ever get a chance!

 

My clutch is going and I just purchased an Exedy hyper single plate. I've heard good things about exedy clutches, but does anyone here have any personal experience with them? They say the single plate can still be slipped and the pedal feel isn't too bad. My choice was between this clutch and the Clutchmasters. I chose to go with the exedy because it came with a lightweight flywheel.

James

 

I've heard double plate are more slippable, because there are more surface for slipping. verify?

 

i have never dealt with exedy clutches, so i dont have an oppinion to offer, i have however dealt with clutch master, including installing one on an evo and i was NOT impressed, the throwout bearing was utter garbage, and the disc looked like some 5 year old got crazy on it when applying the bonding agent that helps tack the friction material on. it was everywhere. they seem to perform ok. but i guess im just picky.

why not call up dirk. u can just buy an off the shelf clutch and maybe save some money. but the only way you will be totaly satisfied is by having a clutch tailored to your car and what you want. theres sooo many options.

different friction materials
organic (molded or woven)
kevlar
carbon
ceramic
copper

different hubs
sprung
unsprung

disks
cushioned
uncushioned
sold
puck

and then it gets even more complicated cause you have to have the right clamping load on it. and theres lots of ways to do pressure plates.

dirk will probably give you the best service you will find. dont expect much service from clutchnet, if there disks werent working for me so well right now i would deal with them.
its nice to see a tuner on here helping people out with information, its very rare to see a manufacture doing the same thing. and i was very impressed when i was there and how willing dirk was to explain things and explain all the things he put into building my clutch.
you wont get that on an off the shelf clutch.

let the tuners do the tuning
the engine builder do the building
the the clutch guy do the clutches!

im not trying to sell thing for ACT or get in good with dirk, he did however leave an impression on me that i wont forget, and for that i have nothing but praise for him, and for people looking for a product for themselves and maybe dont know the product so well, id recomend any business like ACT that will go that distance to get them EXACTLY what they are looking for, and make them feel good about there purchase.

 

do ACT have a product best for everyday traffic light over taking? it has to hold up to repeat slipping at 3500rpm @ 70% throttle. I don't do any drag, just like to move quickly in city traffic.

 

I think our clutch is far more durable than stock but I don't want to make this an ACT commercial. Of course there are still a lot of variables like how far you mash the right pedal during "repeat slipping at 3500rpm". If you take 4 seconds to engage the clutch fully during a hard launch at 3500 rpm you are going to generate a lot of heat and cook the darn thing. Of course there is no reason to slip the clutch for 4 seconds under full power, but still some people do. It is much better to not over-rev the engine when you slip the clutch since you are just depositing the power into the clutch rather than through the clutch to the driveline. The more power you are absorbing through slippage, the more heat is generated and the more wear and warpage is possible, simple as that. It doesn't matter what clutch (except carbon which doesn't warp).