So I just get my car back from having a few goodies installed. Prior to this I had a dynoflash, Exhale, Ralliart filter, HKS DP. I was pretty happy with this set up, but always you can have more!

So 2 weeks ago I took out the pill in the line,,,,and BAM nice boost gains, 1.3-1.5.

So Now I just got put on a HKS RS intake, Ultimate racing HF cat, Walbro 255 pump, Hallman MBC, and a new Dynoflash,,,,,also the karboy short shifter.

The HKS is LOUDDDDDDDD,,, boost seems to take longer, and well as far as power goes, it dosnt seem any faster? Maybe slower with the HKS on?

So I was thinking when I looked at my stereo, all the presets are there, bass and treble are the same, maybe this guy didnt disconect the battery?
Also does the reflash take time to learn itself?

So any thoughts about this, how long do you disconect the neg, cable for , 10 minutes? And should Igive this a try, it wont mess up anything will it?

And by the way the best thing of all these installs was by far the Kartboy shifter, nice smooth short, no clunks , grinds , nothing......I also had the 10 peice bushings installed before along with the SS clutch line, and BG fluid... So the shifting part is AWSOME now.

The HKS RS,,, is LOUD,, I mean you can hear the air sucking in,,, then venting out, this might take some time to get use too.

Thanks

 

You're going to have to reflash for the intake. Aftermarket intakes mess with the MAF frequency and mess up your air/fuel ratios.

 

I agree with Deciet and another thing did Al tune your car for the Walbro and Hallman also? These things could also have an effect.

 

All was flashed for,,,,,,, for all I know anyways.

Just got the ecu back today and put in.



doing the battery disconet,,,,see if that bumps things up a bit,,,,,other wise I think I just blew about $800 for , well ,,,,,nothing? Perhaps less....

 

to reset the battery take off the positive and step on the brake. That should reset everything or aleast it works in other DSM's and I've done it in my evo a bunch of times to reset a CEL and everything worked well.

 

You do not have to step on the brake to reset the ecu. You don't have to wait 10 minutes either. Just take off the battery lead, wait 10 sec, bolt it back down...your ecu has been reset.

But this is a new flash for your car...that means your ecu was unpowered for a period of time while it was in the mail. ie...it has already been reset. Resetting it again will do nothing.

SC~

 

Just a suggestion, take off the negative battery terminal, not the positive. Re-attaching the negative terminal will not spark, while the positive can.

-just some advice.

 

IMHO intake upgrades are marginal at best. I for one will stick with a Ralliart filter. Seems to me like a lot of tuners that are still using the stock turbo are sticking with the stock intake (ditto for some that have upgraded the turbo) ... as Deceit said, you have to really custom tune for your new intake. Walbro is pretty much mandatory once you start making more power. Your next performance upgrade w/out going to a bigger turbo would probably be cams and/or adj. cam gears. Underdrive pulley will also net you a few HP. However, if I was you, I'd be more worried about how safe my car is running and I'd invest in an EGT or wideband 02 just to keep an eye on things.

just my $.02

 

malibujack did some testing with his UTEC and reported that the stock maf sensor is meant to be used with the stock intake, once you change it, the air flow is greater and the MAF frequency bounces all over the place(causing incorrect a/f ratios), that's what's causing you to loose power

 

Until you tune for an intake, all you're going to do is make noise and/or run lean/rich in various spots in the powerband.

 

HKS intakes require a AFC. Otherwise they run too rich and stall the car. The HKS sucks in TOO MUCH air and the ecu tried to match it with the extra feul. I've seen a lot of ppl either get filter covers or AFC to fix the stalling and running rich issues with the HKS.

LUCKILY the AEM doent suck in that much air so the stock MAF can deal with it.

 

That's false. All of the aftermarket open element filter intakes disrupt the maf signal and cause either rich or lean conditions vice versa. In my case, my AEM made my car pig rich. Small filter, big filter, different material filters will all mess with the MAF if they're open element. That is why it is suggested to keep the stock airbox with a drop in. ALL open element intakes will need to be tuned for to run properly.

 

Dealing with DSM's for a long time, I have never heard anyone really concerned with retuning for an AIR filter. The car will tune itself at idle, and at WOT your MAS sensor shouldnt have any problems regardless of what filter is on the end.

If your paying 800 dollars for a one time tune and you can't even feel a power gain I feel sorry for you.

 

This has been discussed a lot already in this and other Evo forums. AMS, Vishnu, and other tuners have all found that changing the intake on an Evo will mess with the MAF readings and ultimately you will lose power unless you have tuned for the intake.

 

I have an HKS mega flow filter, no problems with it, no stalling issues, the throttle response is better, you can hear the air being sucked and you can hear the bypass valve venting(nice!!). I think before installing HKS intakes, disconnect the negative battery terminal.