Any reason the flywheel cannot be turned?
I have been told by my local dealer that the flywheel cannot be turned on an Evo when you replace the clutch, any truth to this? I do not see any reason that the flywheel could not be turned, but maybe there is something that I am unaware of, so far this dealer has been REALLY good to me about taking care of problems, so I am a bit hesitent about calling b/s. Just wanted to hear some opinions.
I have not seen it yet, but I am going to look at it later. They made it sound like an Evo's flywheel just could not be turned, but this would be the first time that I had ever run across a flywheel that couldn't be. I will see if I can take some pictures.
Subaru is like that two they tell there dealers not the turn the wheel. One thing is that they could mess it up and have to replace it again. But I'm more then sure if the flywheel has no flows you can turn it at least once.
There should be no problem with turning the flyweel. It is better to turn a flywheel on a lathe rather than grind it. Grinding only removes surface flaws and makes it look pretty, turning it will allow enough material to be removed to get down below any hard spots that have been produced by the heat generated during use. If you have a flywheel just ground, as soon as you slip the clutch a few times, all of those hard spots come right back up again.
You just have to measure to be sure that the thickness is withing spec and that any step dimensions are maintained.
You just have to measure to be sure that the thickness is withing spec and that any step dimensions are maintained.
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I am going up to the dealership a little later and will talk to them about it. I have a machine shop here in Dallas that I have used several times for other project cars (including a few flywheels) and the do turn it on a lathe. I do not really want a different manufactures lightened flywheel as I feel that the stock is light enough and any lighter would lead to some drivability problems. Well, not necessarily problems, but it would lose some smoothness ans I am not really wanting that n-th degree of performance for a less livable drive. Thanks everyone for the replys, that is what I was looking for!
By the way, does anyone know what the specks are for turning, i.e. when is it too thin?
By the way, does anyone know what the specks are for turning, i.e. when is it too thin?
Well, there's good news on both sides.. its fairly inexpensive to replace (Stock for stock) and the stock one is durable, light and good quality, and unless its got cracks or warped/heat checked it can be resurfaced..
But, you do have aftermarket options too.. though unless your producing monster torque where stock-type pressureplates or discs could deform something there isn't much reason to replace it.
I know I'll get a bit of flak for this, but I truely believe less is more.. I'd rather have the friction surfaces slip/fail before I chew the crap out of my driveline. Plus there's some good products out there that will easily hold 400+ lbft of torque which aren't super expensive, grabby or overall difficult to drive.
I wish I had the turning specs on hand, however I do know the service manual probably has it. Though I recall seeing that they recommend replacing it. Who knows, I could be wrong its been awhile since I've looked anything up about the clutch.
But, you do have aftermarket options too.. though unless your producing monster torque where stock-type pressureplates or discs could deform something there isn't much reason to replace it.
I know I'll get a bit of flak for this, but I truely believe less is more.. I'd rather have the friction surfaces slip/fail before I chew the crap out of my driveline. Plus there's some good products out there that will easily hold 400+ lbft of torque which aren't super expensive, grabby or overall difficult to drive.
I wish I had the turning specs on hand, however I do know the service manual probably has it. Though I recall seeing that they recommend replacing it. Who knows, I could be wrong its been awhile since I've looked anything up about the clutch.
Hey MalibuJack, I agree with you 100%. I have the ACT clutch in there now and I like having a bit of slip before total lockup as well. I would much rather replace the clutch then to replace a transfer case. They told me that it had a lot of heat spots on it and looked like it had been ridden hard and I said "Yep, it sure has." You should have seen the look that I got, but I explained the same thing I said above. The clutch is made to be replaced, the driveline is not. If I want to take off quickly be it a launch or if I need to turn left across traffic, and I need to do so quickly, then I will slip the clutch to get moving. It may be hard on the clutch, but the rest of the driveline is much happier for it.




