All I ask is if ANY of these solutions pan out, that someone give me props for it.. (especially if its a new design for an intake pipe.)

 

Excellent post, Jack!

I think I'm going to try the HKS EIDS...I'll keep you all posted about the results...

 

MJ, you'll definitely get props from me if all of this leads to my car (and others) not stalling under the circumstances discussed in this thread. hell, if you make it out to southern cali, i'll buy you a beer...or 3.

 

Oh, I think there is one intake pipe that "MIGHT" not be susceptable to this.. the Ultimate Racing Fresh air pipe, the one that relocates the MAF sensor in the air intake opening in the grille thats blocked by the intercooler spray bottle.. It seems to have enough length to it that a surge of airflow through it may not make it back to the MAF sensor, but it HAS to have the provision to recirculate the Diverter Valve (BOV).. The only shortcoming of this pipe may be that it exposes the MAF and Air filter to water and debris since its out in the open..

 

anyone care to try it out? (i'm kinda broke right now...)

wow...thats a pricey intake...

 

I'd ask someone to send me a pipe design, but nobody wants to do R&D for free anymore.. If a shop wants to work with me on it, PM me and I'll give you some spec's to fab up a prototype setup that I can test out before I dump my MAF perminently for the new blowthrough setup (I can switch back and forth at this point)

I really need to begin working professionally in the automotive aftermarket.. There really seems to be a need for this stuff..

 

Ok, on an offtopic note.. This is one of those issues that crop up because of an eagerness to get parts out on the market that work well, but aren't tested long enough or are something that people have to tolerate for better airflow.. Then we're told to get a full standalone and convert to speed density if you want all these issues to go away.. This is just not fair.. I would have expected the HKS design to actually not have this issue simply because its been around the longest and has the most time with it.. But I suspect it has something to do with the US market ECU and how it handles closed loop and idle fuel control to pass the stricter US Emissions regulations.. which means that its likely something that didn't happen on Japanese and Euro cars..

 

I have Buschurs Stage 4 with 272 cams and never had a problem UNTILL I put in cooler plugs and Magnacore 8mm plug wires. Now I get the same stalling issues. I'm going to swap to the stock plugs tomorrow and see what happens. I'm not saying this is the contributing factor but I will soon find out.

 

Anyone with the K&N Typhoon intake have this stalling problem? I'm curious to see if their design takes this into account.. The only reason I ask is because there's a common issue with them having issues with tuning, which leads me to believe they have extra length which introduces a slight mismatch in the MAF sensor reading, and the airflow demands of the engine (which needs to be tuned for)

 

Colder plugs can also be a contributor.. I tend to experience that occasionally before I upgraded the MAF pipe..

Whats interesting is you have upgraded cams.. upgraded cams have additional overlap which lowers engine vacuum, its possible that it could result in a lower likelyhood of building a small amount of manifold pressure at that low an RPM that can work its way back out of the turbo.. Mind you thats only a theory since you have the same components I have, except that I'm building a new head, so I don't have the cams and injectors installed.

 

Could an oil catch can be a factor as well? Too small of a hose? Not releasing enough pressure in the crank case? I may be way off line, correct me if I am wrong by all means.

 

MJ

I will be glad to be a tester for any prototypes you develop. I'm just thankful someone has the skills to even attempt to solve such a major issue. Very appreciative of the research you've done so far...

 

Those are all possibilities.. Also a stuck PCV Valve can lead to poor idle and stalling since all of the things your pointing out can contribute to a vacuum leak, or excess pressure that can foul up the idle.. However excess crankcase pressure would likely result in oil leaks around the weakest gasket sealing surfaces, such as the oil pan and valvecover, or you'll find lots of oil residue on the outside of your plugs and on the plug boots..

 

I did experience the dip stick shooting out and oil spewing all over the place. I had to tape it to keep it from pushing out.

 

Yeah, in your case try putting just a breather on the valvecover and see if it stops pushing out the dipstick.. I think its coincidence that you associate the two at the same time.. But again, its possible if you have a bad PCV valve, you can pop out your dipstick, and also you could get poor idle because of it.. Only it would likely want to stall all the time.. You need to run larger hoses to your oil catchcan if its building up too much pressure and its popping the dipstick out. Running just a breather will tell you that quickly.. if it stops popping out.. then you can use larger less restrictive hose.