No luck with the stalling. Been playing around with the AFC II for about a month now and have gotten the car to run with less stalling by ading fuel at idle. THe problem with this is that I would get quite a bit of black smoke out of the exhaust because it was running rich then. I took some fuel away and the car stalled yesterday. This time it turned over for about 10 seconds before it started and now my SES light came on. I think I'll have AL try to fix it next weekend at the dynoflash tune. If that doesn't work, I think I'll just just go back to a panel filter. Let me know if anyone finds a fix!

 

MJ,

to answer one of your previous posts I have the K&N typhoon and am getting all of the stalling problems. I swapped my HKS suction from an Evo owner in town for his never used K&N typhoon and $50. Thought it might fix my stalling problem but didn't. Looks like that was a dumb move on my part cause I here the HKS intakes make more power and are easier to tune.

 

I think anything potentially can be tuned... each pipe seems to have its own personality and affects the MAF and fuel curve differently..

 

i have a brand loyalty motivated fix, first get an apexi air box with an apexi filter (yes the heinously overpriced one) the filter goes right on the stock pipe, so you get the benefits of increased sound maybe some restriction removal (not as much as replacing the pipe), this will hold me over until i can go stand alone at which point i get a custom hard pipe or the apexi suction kit.

seems the eids is working and mj i think this is hks's bandaid to the usdm evolutions running their intake that you stated has been around for the longest, so they are taking responsibility.

f125gpracr does this fix all the stalling problems, so from full throttle to stop sign, and partial clutch release then full clutch depression?

but otherwise can people just read the entire post. THE PROBLEM IS INTAKE PIPE REALTED. ANY AFTERMAMRKET INTAKE PIPE WILL DO THIS.

 

wait... this problem of the dipstick shooting out isn't a result of the oil catch right? the oil catch is suppose to relieve this problem right?

 

My problem was when going around parking lot partial throttle on and off my car would stall.This is after i installed AEM short intake kit and Turbo XS type RFL blow-off valve.It's undrivable.Installing the EIDS really helps,big difference on idle.I highly recommend this if you have stalling problem.
Intake and blow off valve mod made the car sound cool,but lost top-end power due to ECU bleeding off boost caused by the intake kit,boost gauge verified.So i install a Tanabe downpipe and RMR cat delete pipe, pull o2 sensor off stream and to my surprise i got the power back and more.Less heat also on turbo charger is noticed.

 

bump

 

Hey guys,

First of all I sympathize with you all on the issue. You are going to need some sort of piggy back to the ecu to fix this problem. This is what we found out.

I noticed the problem after I installed the upper and lower intercooler pipe along with the safc2 and aem intake completing the stage 2 setup. The intake is the culprit and can be tuned to run better. You should check first with a wide band if you are running rich or lean when it stalls. We found out my car was running rich so I had to lean it out. You are going to need to lean it out at least 25 - 30 pct at around idle on the min side. Each setup maybe different depending on if you are running IC piping, or FMIC ect. Start by assigning your NE points on the SAFC2 by setting your lowest NE1 point to 800 rpm which will put it closed to base idle.

I leaned it out around 30 pct (-30) at 800 rpm on NE1, next NE2 around 1600 rpm I leaned it out 5 (-5). Next adjust the idle solenoid to around 950 rpm. The ecu will eventually compensate but your stall will no longer fall below the lowest Rpms where it stalls. Do a few stop and gos like you are in traffic and make sure the car does not stall no matter what you do. There is a trick to making it hold and it lies on the low map around 800-1500 rpm.

You are going to have to do this on both Hi and low maps find that spot where the car stalls or idle picks up. On my car the changes were most evident on the low map where I had it at -30pct. Play around with it, dropping the pct or raising the pct the car will let you know by running kind of rough.

Be sure to change both hi and low maps between 800- 1500 rpm until the car no longer stalls. Car seems to run alot better and is only a problem when it needs a cold start. I will also like to add, I am venting my hks ssqv with no stalls to date or cel lights. Hope this helps some of you.


evilmania

 

just throw in my 2 cents from my researching on this topic for a bit.

1. stock maf pipe helps much more than the aftermarket one. This is from dsm people and few other evo owners doing their own testing on dyno. gained 8whp after swapping it the aftermarket pipe with the stock maf pipe.

2. the problem is the design of the aftermarket pipe. like malibu said, it's the design, but i don't think it's caused by the compression surge, but rather having irradic reading on Karman vortex maf due to it being so close to the wrongly designed pipe bend. Yes, it's that sensitive, our maf sensors... it's the blow back that effects the maf sensor reading. since our maf sensor isn't hot wire setup, the vortex gets disturbed...

If you look at the oem maf pipe, there are ridges where maf meets the pipe. I think those ridges breaks the aftershock of the air echo down a bit. If you've read about the intake air travel and how it echos back and forth real fast during the time when the throttle body opens and closes, you'll understand what I'm trying to say.

Some people actually had success just adjust the maf sensor from the pipe by turning it side to side and changing directions on how maf sensor mounts to the pipe.

3. adding +13% on at 800 rpm and 10% at 1300rpm and 6% at 2400rpm helps your stalling problem with SAFC. However, your idle wont be stoich anymore. it'll be around 14.9 to 15.2. If you could tune the the after 2400rpm according to the added fuel on previous rpm, you could possibly gain a bit more power (ex: 10whp through the initial boost build up). I believe this is a cure for a lot of people with 4g63 and cams. This is done on LOW setting, not the high setting.

4. loosening up the bov spring will help. not by much.

5. stock box. Stock box will help extreme stalling to minimal disturbance. For some reason, the box design and the empty space between the maf honey comb and the filter helps. I don't know the logics behind it, just from hearing testings from few people.

6. VTA does not neccessarily mean you're going to stall out. with the right amount of adjustments and running a bit richer than normal with your timing pulled a bit more than the stock, you could still have perfectly sound idle with your bov venting to atmosphere. VTA works great with the stock intake setup.


This is what I've found out so far. There are many factors that could contribute to a poor idle. If your car has some mileage, it could cause that as well, as well as bad fuel(especially bad fuel) and poor ignition and also poor grounding.

you just have to find out which cure works out the best for you.

You have to decide, whether or not to live with bad idle or great sounding intake. because most of the idle problems are from the aftermarket intake, believe it or not. I do believe that people with the air box have less idle problems than people with cone filters.

just posting up few things from various research and dsm peeps, and even other turbo groups.

 

Any more input on this?

My rough idle/stall at throttle lift problem started when I put on the Buschur MAF pipe, FMIC, and piping. I already had an APS BOV that was working OK. I moved to a Forge MBC at the time as well, taking input from the manifold and output to the actuator. Installed cams and it got worse (264/272). A custom flash didn't fix it.

I'm ready to put a full recirc BOV on (hate to spend money on it if it won't help it), but I'm wondering if it really is the intake? I want to keep the Buschur IC piping, etc. so can't go back to the stock air box ...

Anyone have this problem and fix it? How? How about w/out a piggyback or full replacement ECU???

Thanks!

 

I know this is old but I am having the same problem. I am running speed density and stalls ALOT with the ac on... can i run the eids with speed density setup?

 

What are you using for speed density? In all honesty there should be adequate tools in your speed density setup should allow you to compensate for it. Are you using a standalone or stock ECU? (you have to be more specific)

If you are stalling when you turn on the A/C, then you need to raise your base idle a bit also (Around 900-1100rpm)

you also need to compensate for a low vacuum at low RPM condition since that could confuse the speed density setup into thinking there's slightly more load than it actually is, in return it could stall the engine, or it could be going the other way and going lean because its adjusted to overcompensate for the low rpm.

Oh, and I generally wouldn't recommend the EIDS for anyone except extreme conditions.. The EIDS is a signal buffer for the MAF and could "slow down" the throttle response resulting in lean tip in, etc..

 

I am using the maftpro, and my idle is set at 1k (raises alot when I put the air on). What happens is when I roll to a stop and put it in neutral the car will just die, and if it dosent than it will drop to about 300 rpms and stumble a bit.

 

Does your vacuum fluctuate steeply when it happens? Typically if it does, then you have to set a threshold that it doesn't drop below for those RPM ranges..

 

yes it does, ill look into the program, what should it not drop below?