This car is a junk. I hope the 04's are all bugged out. lol.

oh, and this happens to me too. I'm thinking the it forgets to breath and faints for a sec then wakes up.

Must be the rich fuel condition or self mutulation. lol.

 

I have the BR intake filter and the stock MAF pipe (Stock BOV) and have never had this issue. Kind of goes along with what MJ said I guess.

 

well here is one thing. Whenever this happens more than one time a night, I've gotten a misfire.

It's usually a humid night when this happens to me. I have a stock intake with a hole cut out on the box. I don't know.

 

Well, I swapped the plugs and no dice. Still stalls. So, I adjusted the cam gears -4 intake and -1 exhaust and adjusted the throttle cable and it seems to be working well. I also set the AFC to 0 in Low Throttle.

 

Good call, I think I suggested that to someone else at one point, never heard if it ended up helping..

 

Hi MJ - I've spent the last couple of days driving around with a K & N Typhoon intake on with my Piper cams and Walbro pump. Currently the cams are running 0/0 mechanicall timing. The feedback here is going to be on the light side; I haven't had a chance to really dig into things yet.

My car's stalling tendencies seem to fit the model you describe; low RPM throttle loading to start more airflow then releasing the throttle. While I have been driving with a wideband, it doesn't log so I haven't been able to capture the AFRs or other data durring a stall condition.

What I've done as a band-aid solution for driveability is to increase my timing by 3/10ths of a degree (lower two cells) and increase my fuel at idle (lower two cells) slightly. The changes have helped, and significantly reduced the tendency to stall when the car comes down from higher RPMs to idle. It has also smoothed the cam lope slightly and reduced the low RPM stall tendenciy by quite a bit. I haven't gotten around to doing anything beyond this yet, but it feels like the car can be smoothed even further.

Now some OT - One thing I have noticed is that in closed loop, the car is running stich AFRs. The ECU is compensating for my bigger cams and changed fuel pump without problems while crusing. I still need to do alot of work before my open loop side is right, though. With Chicago only a few days away, I may just wait and let Shiv do the tuning.

 

Do you have your BOV venting back into the intake, or is it venting to the atmosphere? Also, have you checked out all of your intercooler pipes?

 

Try installing HKS EIDS(Electronic Idle stabilizer).Had stalling problem when i installed AEM intake kit and Turbo XS-RFL blow -off.EIDS fixed my stalling.

 

sounds right.. Open loop tuning is really the key.. closed loop does learn that you have changed things and will run correctly after its done.. the key to closed loop tuning is to set the default timing and fuel trims to be closer to the "adjusted" trims that your car has learned so the learning curve is shorter and the drivability after the ECU is reset is improved.. Generally bigger fuel injectors are harder to get to idle than bigger cams.. simply because if a stock injector needs 1% duty to maintain idle, you can't go much lower than that... so the new bigger injectors hit their 1% and the AFR goes rich.. then the ecu tries to compensate by swinging to lean, so you get basically a swing back and forth.. I can only assume that combining it with bigger cams, etc.. but that is why increasing the fuel and timing a bit at idle helps stalling.. The only real issue is the MAF sensor, if the maf sensor's reading is influenced by airflow, it will try to compensate by adding and removing fuel.. so if there's airflow that registers but doesnt exist, you get a rich condition, if you read less airflow but actually have more (leaky DV, Vacuum leak, intercooler hose leak) you get a lean condition.. Confusing eh?

 

Never had the stalling problem until I installed AEM Intake. So I took it to the dealer and they diagnosed it and told me it was the aftermarket intake. So I decided to swap intake and go with the HKS RS kit, and I still have the same problem. My opinion is that aftermarket intake causes it, but I'd rather deal with it than put the stock one back on. I think I will put on the grounding kit, and the hks engine idle stabilizer, and see what happens.

 

Maverick,


Keep us posted as to how that EIDS works out for you....

 

I hear what you are saying about upgraded injectors and duty cycle. That's one of the reasons I need to do alot more digging. A larger (or improved) turbo will require upgraded injectors; I'm OK with that, but like you I don't want sacrifice street driveability. It looks like all of this keeps pointing back to the MAF...

OT alert!

A quick note about my cam timing, I tried -3/-1 with the Pipers and the car responded poorly to that setting. The idle was improved, but both tip-in and overall power were lower. At low or mid throttle the car felt "bound up"; at WOT the car was way down on power from where it shoul dhave been. After I reverted to 0/0 cam timing the car felt and responded much better. I'm guessing there are some noteworthy valve timing differences (besides lift and duration) between the Piper and HKS cams.

I will eventually try a range of cam gear settings, but I need to get my open loop tuning settled down as a base line before I play with things again.

Oh - if the BOV question was for me, it's not VTA. I'm still running the stock BOV in recirc.

 

any one have a part # on the pcv valve and how to change it????
i wanna try this....

 

This may sound like a dumb question but where is the PCV valve?

 

bump...any news from anybody?