well i got my FMIC today...i was all excited and immediately started to get to work...well first off...there is no directions on the install. I remove all the stock pipes, fmic and start to put the Buschur FMIC lower intercooler pipe on and let me tell you something....this is almost impossible. the oil line to the turbo is right in the way and there is almost no way to tighten the left bolt to the turbo. so what i did was remove the bolts to the oil line and move it over a bit. so i finally get everything on except the one bolt for the lower fmic pipe to the turbo....hook up the oil line again and take for a ride.....and the car sounds weird...sounds like it wants to stall and i notice smoke comin from the under the hood so i turn right around, and go home, try to boost only like 8psi and then all of sudden smoke again. i take a look under the car and i notice oil leakin from the oil line/turbo...you dont think my turbo is fried do you....it wasnt getting alot of oil to the turbo....

also FYI...the Buschur FMIC was horrible to fit i had to drill a hole in the right hand side bolt hole for it to line up to the car.

so do you think my turbo is fried...i really didnt drive it that much at all, but how do i get rid of that leak. I tighten the **** out of that line. is there a gasket there that i possibly tore. EVERYONE I NEED HELP BIGTIME

 

yea, buschur products take a bit of work to fit. u needed to unbolt the starter to bolt the last bolt to the turbo easily. the front mount brackets sometimes are bent in shipping so u need to massage them back. The oil line bolts use special washers that have seals on them and it uses a gasket on each end.

bryan

 

OK, did you move the oil line on the top of the turbo, or the one on the bottom? IF it's the one on the bottom (with the flex section) then there is a gasket both at the top and at the bottom of that pipe. If you just pulled it loose from the turbo you probably tore the gasket.

As for damage to the turbo, I can't say. I'd wait until you can replace that gasket and and then check things out.

When you do go fix that gasket pull the entire pipe and replace bot the top and bottom gaskets. Also be sure to clean all of the old gasket off mating surfaces, and be sure those surfaces are clean and COMPLETELY dry before trying to re-install that pipe. the torque specs for the top bolts are 80 inch/lbs (9 N.m). For the Bottom bolts the torque specs are 120 inch/lbs (14 N.m).

Good luck!

 

WHERE in the heck are you getting your oil line torque specs? are you insane? 120 lbs torque on a 10 mm bolt? hahaha OMG. DO NOT LISTEN TO HIM! They take at most 5-10 lbs torque. SWEET JESUS.

bryan

 

Um - right from the manual - those are INCH/lbs. I included the metric figure because some ft/lbs torque wrenches have a N.m scale as well.

 

I have the same fmic from buschur and the brackets do need massaging. You shouldnt have to drill a hole, the brackets will move with a rubber malet and finesse. As for the line being in the way, it was quoted ealier that you do have to remove the starter and then the bolt is easy to get to, this is definately true.

 

it's much easier to do if you remove the front clip.

 

wow, i found that this was a pretty easy install...Sure that bolt is hard to get at, but that's what tools are for

 

thanks for the help guys...it is the oil line that that has the flex section (although that line really doesnt flex that much).

also, how does Buschur expect you to connect the rubber hose from the DV to the stock intake tube. Currently I am running the stock intake tube with the cone filter from Buschur.

Also, to install that mini battery, you have to remove the entire stock battery holder from the car correct??? or have most of you just cut the plastic unit

 

For immediate answers to your questions (this goes for everyone) simply call us. Putting something up on a website does nobody any good and doesn't get an answer right away.

Pulling the starter is NOT needed, I have never even heard of that, certainly haven't done it.

The easiest way to get to the bolt is to loosen or remove the wastegate actuator on the turbo, that isn't even needed if you have a swivel socket to get to the one difficult bolt on the compressor outlet pipe.

Yes, the entire tray for the stock battery has to be taken out.

On the stock hose from the BOV. Do you have our MAS pipe or upper i/c pipe? If not then I don't understand the issue. If you do have our upper i/c pipe and are using it with the stock MAS hose then there is a short piece of bead rolled stainless tubing in the box with the parts. The short piece of tubing gets put into the MAS pipe hole and then just use your stock hose to go between the new vavle and the MAS pipe.

David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com

 

I apologize to buschur if my original post came out crass, that was not my intention. In fact i think the FMIC is awesome I just have to give some tender love and care and it shouldnt have a problem fitting. What I have to do now is replace the gaskets on the oil line to the turbo and to the oil pan (does that mean i have to drain the oil??...i am pretty sure that is a yes). Once I do that, then I can get to that bolt and tighten it down.

Again, thanks for the help everyone. FYI...I have a little hottie service advisor working for and she is hooking me up with all the replacement gaskets. SWEET

I will update with pics once I get everything sorted out. Here are a few that I snapped off.

 

Here ya go

 

more

 

David, it seems like a lot of these type of threads can be avoided if instructions were included with your parts. This is just a suggestion.

 

well like most of you said, the gasket was shot from the oil line at the bottom of the turbo to the oil pan...i GREATLY appreciate the help. here are some pics to see what everyone was talking about.