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Cams and Break-in Period

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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 09:27 PM
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Cams and Break-in Period

Hey all:

I am curious what you think a proper break in period is for a new set of 272 in/ex cams, along with head studs, injectors, and fuel pump?

any thoughts or ideas would be great.


Thanks
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:12 PM
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Works recommends breaking them in for a minimum of 200-300 miles, whereas Vishnu said no breaking in is necessary.
So, depends on who you asked.
I just take it easy for a few hundred miles.
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Old Jun 30, 2004 | 10:26 PM
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Originally Posted by wilson1
Works recommends breaking them in for a minimum of 200-300 miles, whereas Vishnu said no breaking in is necessary.
So, depends on who you asked.
I just take it easy for a few hundred miles.
I agree.......
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:26 AM
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Just remember that break-in for cams involves avoiding low idle probably even more than extremly high rpm.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:37 AM
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And vary your RPMS a lot. You don't want to wear your cams into a very small range.
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:39 AM
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When I had my cams installed i was told not to let the car idle and to rev it to about 2500 rpm and hold it there for a minute then to go drive normal with out hard revving for about 100 miles
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:40 AM
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I believe that cams alone don't require much of break in period, but if you change the valvetrain, then it would make sense that you would have to break in moving springs and new valves/retainers........ well at least it makes sense to me.....
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:48 AM
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Cam break in = 15min of holding your rpms at 2500 rpms
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:51 AM
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^^ While in neutral, or some easy highway driving?
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:52 AM
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Neutral of course
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Old Jul 1, 2004 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Quickshift
Cam break in = 15min of holding your rpms at 2500 rpms
this is the old standard and still works just fine. do this on regular oil, NOT synthetic, and change your oil and filter after a 100 miles or so.

I respect Shiv as a tuner, but not a nuts-and-bolts mechanic by any means.
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 01:49 AM
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Originally Posted by ColinL
this is the old standard and still works just fine. do this on regular oil, NOT synthetic, and change your oil and filter after a 100 miles or so.

I respect Shiv as a tuner, but not a nuts-and-bolts mechanic by any means.
Why use regular oil? Wouldn't the springs be the only thing that need to 'break in' or readjust?
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Old Jul 2, 2004 | 10:30 AM
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Ya no need for regular oil, I did mine just fine off of synthetic. I even opened my head back up to re check the cams and make sure all the bolts where in proper torque spec, which they where.
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 07:36 PM
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So 15 mins of holding 2500 rpm's and its all good?
BTW, just got these done today
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Old Jul 6, 2004 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by mayhem
Why use regular oil? Wouldn't the springs be the only thing that need to 'break in' or readjust?
um, no. the cam bearing races and lobes develop wear patterns. you won't see smoke like you will with rings when you break those in on synthetic, but I assure you that breaking in a cam on synthetic is not at all recommended.

everyone doing a cam job should read this:
http://www.cranecams.com/?show=faq&id=1

ignore the parts about pushrods, LOL. the rest is very applicable.

note the part where they say DO NOT break in at a steady RPM. this is true. also, do not rev the nuts off the engine.... ever while in neutral, to be honest, but especially during cam break in.
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