check the plugs. I don't believe it's the fuel cut since you didn't have this problem before. I would check the IC also for leaks or crack since you said it happened when you took a turn. Try putting back the old IC and see if it will still do it.

 

The higher boost will eat up plugs pretty quickly.. I found my plugs don't last much longer than 7000 or 8000 miles, so don't spend alot of money on really expensive plugs, bug get good quality plugs one step colder than stock.. I find it necessary to change them ever 5000 miles or so.. On a stock car they will obviously last alot longer.. Those NGK's are fine.. make sure their gapped properly..

AT least you can rule out the plugs if it still does it.. But I had a similar problem with a boost controller at 20psi, S-AFC, buschur exhaust and buschur air filter.. When I changed the plugs the stumbling under load (at around 5000 rpm, which coincidentally is the RPM where the stock ECU triggers the Stock boost solenoid to drop boost to 16.5)

Your describing exactly what I was getting at the time, if you roll onto the boost it didnt happen, but if you did some WOT pulls, you'd get stumbling at around 5000rpm (sometimes earlier depending on engine load and gear)

 

Damn,

Sorry to hear that, I have the same I/C and have never experienced that problem. It could definatly be the plugs and also check your I/C hoses (1 could be loose). Is there any new sounds after you installed the I/C that would indicate any leaks?

 

i didn't notice... do you have a walboro fuel pump? should have one if you don't.

 

MalibuJack,

That is exactly what is hapening right now, I dont' think its the IC because there is no audible hissing sound that it is leaking.

puckadog,

Hooptie157,

I checked all the IC hose, and there is no hissing sound or leaking sound the Greddy Comes with two lower pipes, the one that connects to the turbo to to the intercooler which I didn't use, I just used the stock one, but the one that comes off the driver side is the one I used.

Wont' it get rich if you add a Walboro?

 

a fuel pump, you probably need... they're only $100 or so. with your mods you should have one. you may need to tweak your settings a little for optimum perf. i'd try that if i was you. although malibujack's solution sounds worth trying too since he had the same problem.
my 2c

 

Thanks for all of your help guys,

I will try the Spark Plugs, if the problem still occurs I will have to install a Walboro.

Anybody know where to get the Spark Plugs? What is recommended for the EVO I don't want to run the Iridium plugs, just the regular colder plugs.

Thanks

 

I used Denso Iridiums the first time around, they were expensive but worked.. But I had the same results with the NGK plugs that were much cheaper.. (Since Iridium are supposed to last longer, but if you change them regularly, go for the less expensive) I would go with platinum if possible.. I know Z1 Performance has fairly inexpensive plugs.. Buy several sets in one shot so you're not trying to find new sets of plugs 3 times a year.. The car has been available for over a year, so there's likely a stocked NGK plug at most auto parts stores and they probably have a reference number for them.. But go 1 step colder with 20-21psi of boost..

I doubt its the pump.. In fact, its likely NOT the pump.. an upgraded pump is a recommended upgrace, but not a necessity.. it just gives you a little overhead when tuning and in some cases, will cause a tuned car to run a little richer if upgraded.. Where the upgraded pump shines is under heavy load for long durations, it will be less likely to overheat and not provide enough fuel volume.. This is not something to be overly concerned about on a mostly stock vehicle, seems to happen most often when dyno tuning a car after several runs.

With that said, its a GOOD idea to upgrade the pump when you start modifying the car.. But its not necessary until you consider additional fuel volume (Upgraded injectors) or you are having trouble getting a rich enough mixture at higher RPM no matter what you do and you haven't maxxed out the usable capacity of the injectors (86-90% Duty cycle)

 

MalibuJack,

Thanks for the kind advices you gave me, I will try caling some auto store that carry the NGK plugs for the EVO.

By the way do you know the gap on the plugs for the EVO? Torque Settings?

Thanks

 

If its turns out not to be the spark plugs, I think you might be running lean around 5000rpm. If that is the case, why don't you just try running richer starting at around 4500rpm to redline on the SAFC? I don't suppose you have an EGT, o2 sensor or datalogger? As MalibuJack said, I doubt you need an upgraded fuel pump just yet with the mods you have.

 

sophis,

I did that on my SAFC2, I put 0 values on all LO and HI, its still bogging at 5k WOT

What do you think?

 

I called some stores and the only one they have is the Autolites Double platinum for the EVO8.

Anyody here has a good feedback on the Autolites plugs?

Thanks

 

Autolite and Champion spark plugs are for lawn mowers only...

 

I've used them on american cars.. Don't know how good they are for a turbocharged application.

 

Setting 0 values at the low and high maps just make it as if your not running the SAFC2 at all. Your jerking (that is if your car is running lean) deals more with the HI map on the SAFC2. Try setting +5 at 4500, +8 at 5000rpm, etc until you reach 7000rpm. Increment the values (say +8 at 4500 and increase from there) and try that out for a couple of times. An EGT guage/datalogger or even at least an O2 sensor would really show if you are running lean or not. Oh yea, can't the SAFC2 moniter knock count (I use to have a SAFC, never tried the SAFC2)? If running richer doesn't work, then it might be your spark plugs.

Autozone should sell NGK BP7ES or one step colder, BP8ES. I use to use BP7ES on my eclipse for over 4 years (16g@21psi). You can't go wrong with NGK copper spark plugs.