Rod Bolt Install.
Rod Bolt Install.
Anyone have any information, or tips on the install of ARP conrod bolts. I know that there are some consern with the stock bolts getting out of shape when using high boost and even more likley with more rpm. I don't plan on going over 7.5k and always try to not excede but somtimes it is hard to keep under that. But I want to do what is best, I take advantage of cheap insurance and I want to do it before a bigger turbo.
Thanks in advance.
Thanks in advance.
Originally Posted by 1.8t
Just thinking out loud, can you just drop the oil pan and remove/replace the con-rod bolts with the everything still attached to the crank?
Originally Posted by GTVEVO
This is the normal process that I would think but I wansn't for sure so I wanted to ask. Just so I have the correct feeling and not leaving anything out.
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From: driving the 10 second beast in ohio or running lightmods.net
i heard its a pain...i was going to do it but kinda decided to just to $900 worth of rods and pistons at the same time and make it bullet proof
Wow this is an old thread, after allot of research I decided against this and I am very glad I did. When I pulled apart my stock motor (not blown, replaced with ams long block
) at 40k the rod bolts were as close to perfect as you could get, all rod bearings looked great. Basically there was no need to upgrade them from my standpoint and I probably had 20k miles running 500whp on the stock long block with 8k rev limit.
Keep a good tune and rev limit and you shouldn't have to worry about it unless this is a track only car that run high rpms constantly.
) at 40k the rod bolts were as close to perfect as you could get, all rod bearings looked great. Basically there was no need to upgrade them from my standpoint and I probably had 20k miles running 500whp on the stock long block with 8k rev limit.Keep a good tune and rev limit and you shouldn't have to worry about it unless this is a track only car that run high rpms constantly.
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Wow this is an old thread, after allot of research I decided against this and I am very glad I did. When I pulled apart my stock motor (not blown, replaced with ams long block
) at 40k the rod bolts were as close to perfect as you could get, all rod bearings looked great. Basically there was no need to upgrade them from my standpoint and I probably had 20k miles running 500whp on the stock long block with 8k rev limit.
Keep a good tune and rev limit and you shouldn't have to worry about it unless this is a track only car that run high rpms constantly.
) at 40k the rod bolts were as close to perfect as you could get, all rod bearings looked great. Basically there was no need to upgrade them from my standpoint and I probably had 20k miles running 500whp on the stock long block with 8k rev limit.Keep a good tune and rev limit and you shouldn't have to worry about it unless this is a track only car that run high rpms constantly.
here is something that should help if you dont have a strecth gauge
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...install+torque
http://www.arp-bolts.com/Tech/TechInstall.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...install+torque
Last edited by bnice01; Sep 29, 2008 at 06:49 PM.
I just read the little instruction paper that come with my ARP rod bolt its says
"If you do not have a strecth gauge, follow these steps using the ARP Moly Assembly lube. After rods are installed into the motor, torque bolts to 37 ft\lbs. Loosen the nuts. Torque to 37 ft\lb again. Loosen the nuts and torque to 37 ft\lbs a third and final time". I know there site says 5 cycles but I am following the paper that came with my rod bolts. Hope that helps
"If you do not have a strecth gauge, follow these steps using the ARP Moly Assembly lube. After rods are installed into the motor, torque bolts to 37 ft\lbs. Loosen the nuts. Torque to 37 ft\lb again. Loosen the nuts and torque to 37 ft\lbs a third and final time". I know there site says 5 cycles but I am following the paper that came with my rod bolts. Hope that helps


