Break-in period
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The Evo comes from the factory with semi synthetic oil which will let the rings have more friction with the cylinders than a synthetic oil. This is so that the cylinders can become sealed or close to it asap.
You shouldnt rev the engine higher than 3000 rpms during the first 300 miles, and neither should you give it boost. Giving boost is over 20% throttle position approximately (can be less in 4th and 5th gear).
If you give boost, there is a small risk of blowing the ****ty oil with some tiny metal residues in it through the turbo, so dont do it.
You can then gradually increase the revs to 4000, then 5000 rpms, from 300 miles to 500 miles and 500 to 700 miles. But still without boost.
Then change the oil to fully synthetic, preferably Castrol RS 10W60, and start boosting it, but increase gradually. After 1000 miles, you can go flat out.
Keep in mind the following:
- there is no point in redlining the engine to 7500 rpms, it runs out of breath way before that.
- NEVER give it boost before you have driven 10 miles, and do not go over 3000 rpms for the first 10 miles. The oil takes a while to reach its working temperature.
You shouldnt rev the engine higher than 3000 rpms during the first 300 miles, and neither should you give it boost. Giving boost is over 20% throttle position approximately (can be less in 4th and 5th gear).
If you give boost, there is a small risk of blowing the ****ty oil with some tiny metal residues in it through the turbo, so dont do it.
You can then gradually increase the revs to 4000, then 5000 rpms, from 300 miles to 500 miles and 500 to 700 miles. But still without boost.
Then change the oil to fully synthetic, preferably Castrol RS 10W60, and start boosting it, but increase gradually. After 1000 miles, you can go flat out.
Keep in mind the following:
- there is no point in redlining the engine to 7500 rpms, it runs out of breath way before that.
- NEVER give it boost before you have driven 10 miles, and do not go over 3000 rpms for the first 10 miles. The oil takes a while to reach its working temperature.
Guest
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I always let my engine idle for 2 minutes before driving off, so the oil can get everywhere it needs to before I actually put load on it.
And after you have been boosting it, let it idle for a minute.
Unless you live in a very cold area, it's a good idea to wait for the fan to come on, cool the water down, and only switch the car off after that.
The fan comes on when the water temp reaches 96°C and goes off when the temp is down to 86°C.
And after you have been boosting it, let it idle for a minute.
Unless you live in a very cold area, it's a good idea to wait for the fan to come on, cool the water down, and only switch the car off after that.
The fan comes on when the water temp reaches 96°C and goes off when the temp is down to 86°C.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 86
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Originally posted by Claudius
I always let my engine idle for 2 minutes before driving off, so the oil can get everywhere it needs to before I actually put load on it.
And after you have been boosting it, let it idle for a minute.
Unless you live in a very cold area, it's a good idea to wait for the fan to come on, cool the water down, and only switch the car off after that.
The fan comes on when the water temp reaches 96°C and goes off when the temp is down to 86°C.
I always let my engine idle for 2 minutes before driving off, so the oil can get everywhere it needs to before I actually put load on it.
And after you have been boosting it, let it idle for a minute.
Unless you live in a very cold area, it's a good idea to wait for the fan to come on, cool the water down, and only switch the car off after that.
The fan comes on when the water temp reaches 96°C and goes off when the temp is down to 86°C.
thanks.
Guest
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It is important to let the engine idle after a quick run with lots of boost, but if the turbo timer shuts the engine down although the fan is on, it will take longer to cool down. It is much better than not letting the car idle at all, so if you need to get out of your car quickly after you have arrived somewhere, then it is a very good idea 
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Originally posted by silver ghost
So Claudius, would a Turbo Timer be a good investment? I'm assuming yes but just wanted to know your opinion.
thanks.
So Claudius, would a Turbo Timer be a good investment? I'm assuming yes but just wanted to know your opinion.
thanks.
Evolving Member
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 109
Likes: 0
From: SF
Originally posted by rt turbo
yes, a turbo timer is a MUST investment for ALL turbocharged vehicles. they are cheep, and will drastically make your life easier, and easier on your car. the evo doesnt have a ball bearing turbo, it runs on oil... all oil cooled turbos need a cool down period.
yes, a turbo timer is a MUST investment for ALL turbocharged vehicles. they are cheep, and will drastically make your life easier, and easier on your car. the evo doesnt have a ball bearing turbo, it runs on oil... all oil cooled turbos need a cool down period.
not bad at all, i see its a "standard turbo". i assume this is the stock turbo? also, what kind of horsepower are you making? and what size injectors are you running? any kind of fuel additive like alky/water injection, or race gas? or is it pump gas? (im just trying to get a bareing on what size fuel system im gann need). do you recieve any knock sums at 2.05 bar? what kind of other mods do you have to support this much boost? sorry about the 20 questions, im used to a twin turbo 6 cylinder, which is alot different, so i am trying to figure out how the 4g63 engine responds to high boost/fuel loads in terms of detonation and what-not.
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Yes, stock turbo. Big 16g titanium blade.
Horsepower could not be determined accurately, the dyno was only good for 400 and stopped reading at 408 bhp.
Using standard 560cc/min injectors, reaching 92% duty between 4 and 5,000 with increased base fuel pressure.
All on pump gas.
I get some knock on the Power FC, but below the recommended value. The knock sensor is very sensitive and indicates some mechanical noises as knock...
To be save, I replaced the crankshaft, pistonds and of course the rods with forged items from Japan.
Horsepower could not be determined accurately, the dyno was only good for 400 and stopped reading at 408 bhp.
Using standard 560cc/min injectors, reaching 92% duty between 4 and 5,000 with increased base fuel pressure.
All on pump gas.
I get some knock on the Power FC, but below the recommended value. The knock sensor is very sensitive and indicates some mechanical noises as knock...
To be save, I replaced the crankshaft, pistonds and of course the rods with forged items from Japan.