Quote:
Okay for anyone who doesn't like to waste money. The bone stock factory mitsubishi stroker crank has been tested in the dsm world at very high horspower levels long before the EVO 8 ever existed. Magnus motorsports made 690hp for an entire season on a bone stock mistubishi crank. That was about three years ago. burshur racing made 609hp and 640ft tq on a factory mitsubishi crank 6 or 7 years ago. Wrightouch automotive made over 750 whp on a bone stock mistu crank. You can buy them from mistubishi your self. I paid 485 shipped to my door for the last one I bought, and that was a retail sale. I am done here.Today 12:34 PM


You've made my point with this post. Magnus made 690hp for an entire season. Good for them but I'd like my engine to last for several seasons which is why I'm going for overkill. At 26psi I'm making over 510 ft/lbs of torque to the wheels. By next week I'll be running 32psi. I'm going to make every attempt to build a bullet proof engine. Look at all of the high power Evo's running around today on stock internals. Sure the engine can handle high power for a while but will they last? Only time will tell. You seem like you might be a fairly knowledgeable guy, too bad you come across as such a d***.

 

HAHA.. Hey those are some nice numbers. Im going to be running around the same psi anywhere from 30-35 maybe 40 if the water injection kit works really good. What is your mod list?

Oh i was one of them that was running allot of HP on the stock internals. That didnt last very long. LOL. Of course that is my fault for always wanting more. OH WELL it is better this way anyway.

Chris

 

He is trying to help you out. What he is trying to say is that you are not going to make enough power to where the mitsubishi 100mm crank is going to be a problem.

What is funny is that the fastest 4G63s in the world still use factory Mitsubishi 2.0 cranks

 

If it makes him feel safer about getting the most out of his car then why not? And from what i read the 1100bhp evo doesnt run the stock crank but i guess i could be wrong.

Anyway the way i look at it is it only takes one defect from the dealership to cause major problems. QC is just not as good from the dealer as it is from some of these aftermarket vendors. But that is a long shot. Once agian if it makes you feel better about the car and if it will make you not worry about it and you have the money then why not? Nothing wrong with that.

Chris

 

There's helping out and then there's being a jacka**. Go back and read his posts.

As I've said before, I'm doing whatever I can to build a bulletproof engine. I'm not interested in an annual rebuild. Also, I'm not running a 2.0, I'm running a 2.3 which generates a lot more stress on the crank vs. the 2.0. Toda has told me several times not to run past 7300 to 7500 rpm's. I'm going to take their advice on that and build a crank that can easily handle 8500 rpm's. Just an extra level of protection on an expensive engine build. Overkill? Maybe.

As far as not making enough power. I'm not done yet. My HKS 3240 will probably be replaced this winter. The way I look at it is I've made the investment to protect the bottem end, now I can have fun with some serious boost and not run out of revs.

I don't mind advice. As a matter of fact I've needed alot of advice and help to build this car. Most people have been really cool about helping out and voicing their opinions. But some people are just born angry. BTW, a special thanks to Boost Solutions (George) and Automotosports. They've been great to work with and have provided me with top notch products and advice, and excellent customer service.

 

Who has a 1100hp evo? I did not say who made the most power I just said who went the fastest

Nothing wrong with what you are saying though. I was just pointing it out.

 

Well i dont know if you really can call it a EVO anymore. LOL. It was once a evo from what i understand. A company in new zealand made it. Its a full drag car. Here is a pic.

Chris

 

3240: I think your misreading, I think the #1 reason why Toda stated not to rev past 7,000 was probably liability and turbo selection. The #1 thing with building an engine is who assembles it. People are trying to state that the 2.4 crank will take as much as you give it, just as long as it's installed/machined correctly to work. And I don't think anyone is going to give you a guarantee on the revs, because it's not going to be easy on the engine at all. If someone is making promises of 2.3L to 9,000rpm's I wouldn't trust them. I don't see why you don't just keep your current stroker, it sounds like it's got a good combination of parts.

If your loaded, buy the JUN stroker, send your block and parts to Darkhose. It might cost you $10,000 and three months of waiting, but it seems like you want the best, there it is.

Otherwise, to get the maximum HP and to make the fastest down the track, build a 2.0L. You can get a bullet-proof 2.0L from David for $3000 and the head for $1600. Try out one of his new GT35R Turbo's and your car would probably destroy the current version which probably cost you twice as much. It will rev to 9,000 all day long, and bear in mind it will rev faster than your 2.3. If you want to go fast, your going to be shifting at redline anyhow, so who cares about pump-gas lowend torque.

 

I'm not misreading and I understand the different points of view. The stock 4g64 crank probably will handle alot of abuse, I'm really only doing the upgrade for insurance purposes (piece of mind). 8200 revs is about all that I'll need to finish a 1/4 mile run without having to shift into 5th. I've done a lot to this car that probably isn't neccessary but gives me a bit of a comfort factor.

When I first started this project my goal wasn't to build a drag car. After going to the track a few times I became addicted and realized that a 2.3l probably wasn't an ideal choice for this application. However, it was too late since I had already installed the 2.3l. At the same time I was hooked on the low end torque of the car on the street. The best of both worlds seems to be the JUN kit, high revs and low torque. I know that I can't get to the rev ability of a JUN kit with my setup but I should be close. If I had to do it again I'd definitely go with JUN. A great shop in Colorado Springs built my EVO. They specialize in Mercedes (Kleemann USA) and have built several cars for me. They really took their time on this (7 months) and the workmanship is top notch.

I'm one of those guys, like many of you, that is addicted to modifying any vehicle that I own. I'm also one of those guys that is never done. I'm constantly trying to squeeze a little more power and a little more reliability out of everything that I build. This explains my decision to have a custom crank made.

Enjoy the holiday weekend.

 

I suggest that you rev it as high as you like, hell 10,000 is a nice round number. When is starts to sound funny, just breeze off the gas a hair and you shoudl be fine. Tell the bystanders to wear helmets.

 

What is funny is that the fastest 4G63s in the world still use factory Mitsubishi 2.0 cranks

Maybe here but not in the world.

 

You're pretty funny darkhorse. If you're going to be an idiot, please make an effort to be funny.

 

Ok, I am unclear, does that post make me an idiot or not in your opinion

 

I believe that the fastest 4G63s in the world are in the USA, though.

Anyway, the "revaility" of an engine has more to do with the rod/stroke ratio than the strength of the crank itself. With longer strokes come greater side loads on the pistons. And higher revs mean even greater side loads. You can change to a longer rod to mitigate this somewhat, but the piston pin ends up being partway into the oil ring on the piston.

Strokers tend to scuff the cylinder walls a lot more than the stock 4G63.

So, really, changing the crank to a different crank with the same stroke isn't going to do diddly squat for your engine's redline.

 

Dyno of my Evo at 26psi of boost running C16. Notice the torque and quick spool. We're increasing the rev limit to about 8k and bumping boost to between 30-32psi. Should be awesome. A cage gets installed in three weeks so I'll be able to run at the track. I've been once and got the boot.