I was driving for about 2 hours, stopped at a rest stop for about 5 minutes, got back on the highway... when I was in 2nd gear, it stuttered a little bit but then ran fine for the next 45 minutes or so. When I reached my destination, I popped the hood and noticed that my dipstick blew out.

I've been changing my oil every 3000 miles... last time I changed it was a week ago and I added 5 quarts. The ride was a little bumpy today, so maybe that played a role in it.

Would anyone like to offer a diagnosis? Thanks a lot... I appreciate it.

 

Is your PCV hose (1/2" rubber hose from cam cover to intake pipe) pinched or blocked? If so, crankcase pressure would build, which would blow the dipstick out.

 

Overfill on the oil with a breather will also do that.

 

do a compression check on all 4 cylinders too. I had a top ring failure on the rally car that caused excess crankcase pressure and the same problem. Are you running stock boost?

 

mine did this too i just figured i put to much oil in, i changed it and it took 4 1/2 quarts and havnt had the problem yet.

 

As stated, ck your oil level.

Also, in the catch can threads I've been reading, they mentioned that if you use the fuel filter DIY type of catch can, the filter can become clogged and cause a lot of crank case pressure that could pop your dipstick out.

FB

 

maybe its your dyno flash

j/k

it maybe over fill of oil

 

i thought the same... overfilled ur oil... if u poured 5 quarts right off the get-go... you may have overfilled because even when you drain your oil, there could have been some left in there.... my best advice for you is when your ready to pour in the new oil, put in 4.5 quarts and drive for a day. then let it sit for a few hours and measure the oil level before adding more.

 

Thanks a lot, guys... I'll go with the overfill diagnosis and take it easy for now. I appreciate the help.

To be on the extra cautious side, I do have a compression tester. Now I know I need to disengage something to prevent the car from turning over while I use it. However, I can't think of what the hell it is... I think I'm losing my mind (or already did). Anyone wanna make me sane before I think too much about this? TIA...

 

don't know the evo that well, but on the cossie I pull the coil wire.

 

do you guys think that i should be that worried about this. i still have to drive about 50 miles home. also, what is the stock compression in psi for the engine so i know when i do the compression test. also, again, what do i have to disengage so that the car doesnt turn over....i have a screw in compression tester not a bulb type.

thanks for the help guys.

 

COMPRESSION PRESSURE CHECK
1. Before inspection, check that the engine oil, starter and
battery are normal. Also, set the vehicle to the following
conditions:
• Engine coolant temperature: 80 − 95°C (176 − 203°F)
• Lights, and all accessories: OFF
• Transaxle: Neutral
2. Disconnect the spark plug cables.
3. Remove all of the spark plugs.
4. Disconnect the crankshaft position sensor connector.
behind and left of oil cap
NOTE: Doing this will prevent the engine control module
from carrying out ignition and fuel injection.
WARNING
Keep your distance from the spark plug hole when
cranking. Oil, fuel, etc., may spray out from the spark
plug hole and may cause serious injury.
5. Cover the spark plug holes with a shop towel etc. Crank the
engine for a few seconds to clear debris from a round the
spark plug holes. After the engine has been cranked, check
for foreign material adhering to the shop towel.
6. Install the compression gauge to one of the spark plug
holes.
7. Crank the engine with the throttle valve fully open and
measure the compression pressure.
Standard value (at engine speed of 250 r/min): 1,128
kPa (163 psi)
Minimum limit (at engine speed of 250 r/min): 951 kPa
(138 psi)
8. Measure the compression pressure for all the cylinders, and
check that the pressure differences of the cylinders are
below the limit.
Limit: 98 kPa (14 psi)
9. If there is a cylinder with compression or a compression
difference that is outside the limit, pour a small amount of
engine oil through the spark plug hole, and repeat the
operations in steps 6 to 8.
(1) If the compression increases after oil is added, the cause
of the malfunction is a worn or damaged piston ring
and/or cylinder inner surface.
(2) If the compression does not rise after oil is added, the
cause is a burnt or defective valve seat, or pressure is
leaking from the gasket.
10.Connect the crankshaft position sensor connector.
11.Install the spark plugs and spark plug cables.
12.Use the scan tool to erase the diagnostic trouble codes.
NOTE: This will erase the diagnostic trouble code resulting
from the crankshaft position sensor connector being discon-
nected.
NOTE: If the negative cable has been disconnected from
the battery terminal in order to erase the diagnostic trouble
code, operate the engine at idle for approximately 10 min-
utes after restarting.

check the pcv valve.

 

You want my opinion...... Junk the piece of crap and buy a Hyundai

 

what a first post. tard

 

That has been happening with DSMs for years. You can do 1 of 2 things.
1. crimp the top of the dipstick tube with a pair of pliers
2. get some mechanics wire and a small hose clamp then run the wire through the dipstick handle and clamp it down.