where can i get a water temp t-fitting for upper radiator pipe?
erm, so you're effectively conceding the proper use of a temp gauge, to only read it when it's open.
i don't get it. why not do it the way i did it, and get a constant, proper reading?
i mean, are brass fittings that bad? is my install THAT horrendous?
i don't get it. why not do it the way i did it, and get a constant, proper reading?
i mean, are brass fittings that bad? is my install THAT horrendous?
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
erm, so you're effectively conceding the proper use of a temp gauge, to only read it when it's open.
i don't get it. why not do it the way i did it, and get a constant, proper reading?
i mean, are brass fittings that bad? is my install THAT horrendous?
i don't get it. why not do it the way i did it, and get a constant, proper reading?
i mean, are brass fittings that bad? is my install THAT horrendous?
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
erm, so you're effectively conceding the proper use of a temp gauge, to only read it when it's open.
i don't get it. why not do it the way i did it, and get a constant, proper reading?
i mean, are brass fittings that bad? is my install THAT horrendous?
i don't get it. why not do it the way i did it, and get a constant, proper reading?
i mean, are brass fittings that bad? is my install THAT horrendous?
Not THAT horrendous...bwhahahahahaha
I'm going the hose route too looks simple enough, and they have balck anodized fitting local if your that picky about looks.
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
well, i'm just a little more worried about the functionality of the install spot, as what good is a temp gauge if your thermo sticks? 

Very nice writeup.
However, as was mentioned on Nor-cal, i used the "bead" style fitting. I'm not sure why the difference in texture of the units, although i've seen the kind you've got at local hardware stores, but i picked mine up at an advance auto (probably the same few bucks.
Also, i'd like to note 2 things.
Your sender is MUCH longer than the defi sender. mine is right about level with the T. Not a big deal, i'm sure it'll flow, but just FYI.
And make 100% sure the reducer you're using is the right thread pitch. I have no idea which the defi one was ( NPT BSPT ), but just make sure it screws in nice and good without any teflon tape, then come back and assemble.
good work.
However, as was mentioned on Nor-cal, i used the "bead" style fitting. I'm not sure why the difference in texture of the units, although i've seen the kind you've got at local hardware stores, but i picked mine up at an advance auto (probably the same few bucks.
Also, i'd like to note 2 things.
Your sender is MUCH longer than the defi sender. mine is right about level with the T. Not a big deal, i'm sure it'll flow, but just FYI.
And make 100% sure the reducer you're using is the right thread pitch. I have no idea which the defi one was ( NPT BSPT ), but just make sure it screws in nice and good without any teflon tape, then come back and assemble.
good work.
Originally Posted by WarmPepsi
Very nice writeup.
However, as was mentioned on Nor-cal, i used the "bead" style fitting. I'm not sure why the difference in texture of the units, although i've seen the kind you've got at local hardware stores, but i picked mine up at an advance auto (probably the same few bucks.
Also, i'd like to note 2 things.
Your sender is MUCH longer than the defi sender. mine is right about level with the T. Not a big deal, i'm sure it'll flow, but just FYI.
And make 100% sure the reducer you're using is the right thread pitch. I have no idea which the defi one was ( NPT BSPT ), but just make sure it screws in nice and good without any teflon tape, then come back and assemble.
good work.
However, as was mentioned on Nor-cal, i used the "bead" style fitting. I'm not sure why the difference in texture of the units, although i've seen the kind you've got at local hardware stores, but i picked mine up at an advance auto (probably the same few bucks.
Also, i'd like to note 2 things.
Your sender is MUCH longer than the defi sender. mine is right about level with the T. Not a big deal, i'm sure it'll flow, but just FYI.
And make 100% sure the reducer you're using is the right thread pitch. I have no idea which the defi one was ( NPT BSPT ), but just make sure it screws in nice and good without any teflon tape, then come back and assemble.
good work.
I figure that the coolant will still flow just fine, as it's under pressure. As far as I could tell, the GReddy sensor is indeed 1/8" NPT, as it threaded in very nicely without teflon tape. However, I haven't gone online to check out the differences in pitch and angle between BPST and NTP threads.
So was your assembly as gargantuan as mine, with the exception of the length of the barbs?
MATZ,
Did you try home depot for your T fitting and barbs etc? They have the same ones WarmPepsi used. They arent that big. From just looking at your pics yours looked bigger then the ones he used.
Did you try home depot for your T fitting and barbs etc? They have the same ones WarmPepsi used. They arent that big. From just looking at your pics yours looked bigger then the ones he used.
Originally Posted by BADEVO
MATZ,
Did you try home depot for your T fitting and barbs etc? They have the same ones WarmPepsi used. They arent that big. From just looking at your pics yours looked bigger then the ones he used.
Did you try home depot for your T fitting and barbs etc? They have the same ones WarmPepsi used. They arent that big. From just looking at your pics yours looked bigger then the ones he used.
I didn't go there originally, because when I went to find a 1/8" NPT tap to install my EGT sensor, the guy said "what's NPT?". At that point, I lost all faith in Home Depot and stuck with the local hardware shop.
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