think I can fill the shift knob with lead?
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,580
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From: Houston, TX
think I can fill the shift knob with lead?
I am looking heavily into a new shift knob. I want a counterweighted one, and very heavy at that (1 lb!!) but I can't find one I like and don't want metal (too hot or cold) and I want it heavier than that 6 oz leather one that mach V offers...
so, you think I can drill a small hole inside the stock one and fill er up with lead or something to make her nice and heavy?
so, you think I can drill a small hole inside the stock one and fill er up with lead or something to make her nice and heavy?
Errr.. umm.. that doesn't sound too safe. Are you going to melt lead and fill up your shift knob? I guess you can try buying a stock shift knob to cut open to see if the inside is hollow.
Originally Posted by plokivos
yeh, i don't think that plastic insides' going to hold that, but you could try and tell us.
That or get a heavy shift knob in metal and cover in leather.
That or get a heavy shift knob in metal and cover in leather.
Thread Starter
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,580
Likes: 0
From: Houston, TX
yea... I just tried drilling into it from the inside and I think the plastic is solid for the most part... thought it would be hollow. there goes that. any other thoughts on how to do this? leather wrapping an already expensive metal one is all the more expensive, so that's sort of out of the question, not to mention I'd really like a low profile (short) knob that is really heavy, unlike the razo one (which is the heaviest Ive seen, 450 grams) which is tubular.
Raid a shop class and Make one yourself. I had a friend who did it in high school for the same reason. It was a lead ball, then he poored aluminum cast over it. it truned out pretty nice but it broke 6months later.
or heres a solution idk if this is a doable idea. BUT, if you have a perfect sphere somehwere, you can just get some lead put it in there so it forms, whe it cools take it to a shop, have them center drill it, and thread it so it fits the stock threads... i mena idk what you can find to use, but maybe like idk.. but look around i'm sure you can find somthing
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I think 340 G is a bit heavier than I want, but it works great.
You have to remember that heavier the counter weight shifters go, more you loose shifter feel.
it'll shift a lot faster for sure compare to stock.
You have to remember that heavier the counter weight shifters go, more you loose shifter feel.
it'll shift a lot faster for sure compare to stock.
Originally Posted by plokivos
I think 340 G is a bit heavier than I want, but it works great.
You have to remember that heavier the counter weight shifters go, more you loose shifter feel.
it'll shift a lot faster for sure compare to stock.
You have to remember that heavier the counter weight shifters go, more you loose shifter feel.
it'll shift a lot faster for sure compare to stock.
when i said loose shifter feel, you don't get the crisper shifter feel when you shift. My razo's in there so tight, i can't get it off, which is a problem that I probably have to deal with later on.
The counter weight does play a sort of a lever to help you shift easier and faster.
But with any metal shifter, you loose the tranny feedback.
The counter weight does play a sort of a lever to help you shift easier and faster.
But with any metal shifter, you loose the tranny feedback.
you guys don't ocean fish much, do you? They make HUGE lead weights that look like cannonballs, down to golf ball size. You could try this experiment with one of those..... just don't get lead poisoning
I second the motion for stiffer bushings in all shifter components.
I second the motion for stiffer bushings in all shifter components.



