Here are my mods:
HKS RS intake
full 3"turboback exhaust
borla headers
fuel pump
reflash

I installed my headers about a month ago and there was a ticking sound coming from them. I come to find out that there was a slight exhaust leak. I am 17 and have been trying to find a job so ive been busy and have needed my car after school. I was planning on getting the exhaust leak fixed when this morning, I start it up and go about 100 yards down the road when all of a sudden a loud popping nopise erupted and now instead of the ticking it makes a pop pop pop noise REALLY LOUD. Does anyone know what this is? my fuel is cutting out at well and i cant go far. Occassionally my car will stall when I try to start it up after about 1 min. Please help with any information you guys might have. Im regretting taking it into the dealership. But if it has to be done then ill go.

 

Sounds like you need to replace the header to turbo gasket. You may only need to tighten it up although if you've been driving it like that the gasket may have burned off. This can cause driveability concerns when the leak gets to big. Dont worry so much man, its not a big problem and it wont damage anything.

Gil-superz

 

Yeah but the thing is, the ticking noise is gone now and when i start it up its just a loud popping. I removed my headers and the gasket is fine but i replaced it to be sure. However it is still doing the same thing.

 

Hard to diagnose over the internet.

Does the sound seem to be coming from the top of the motor(like in the valvetrain) or is it coming from down by the turbo like a bad downpipe to O2 housing gasket.

Are you getting fuel cut like from an overboost situation or is the fuel pump just shorting out?

 

Got It Towed To The Dealership And Come To Find Out My 2nd Cylinder Has Blown Out And The Threads Are Gone So Its Gonna Be Costly...they Said That The Cause Of This Happening Is From The Spark Plugs Not Being Tightened All The Way...hopefully It Will Be Covered Under Some Kind Of Warranty. I Will Keep You Guys Posted

 

So the spark plug stripped the threads out of the head, then blew out. That sounds more like it was over tightened or cross threaded and stripped the threads out of the head. If it was loose I don't think it would rip the threads out. It would just have low compression on that cylinder and run like ***. Did you ever remove or replace the plugs? Or is this a factory issue?

I'm curious how they will fix this. I don't think they would Heli-coil it. I can't imagine them replacing the head for this either. Let us know what they do to fix it.

 

They said i have two options.

one- I could pay for 1 hour of labor and they could try to re-tap the threads for the plug or two- i could have them take it to a machine shop where they will remove the head and do it from the inside-out which is the right way but will cost 900$ just to remove the head.

They said that it is not covered on warranty because of all the mods i have done to my car. Im going to go with option one and hope the spark plug catches and withstands the pressure it needs to withstand.

by the way the dealership said that it also split my coil into two. so im going to have to replace that as well.

 

tapping the spark plug hole with the head still on is a horrible idea and i can't believe Mitsu suggested it.

 

Why would you say this is a horrible idea? if it works it should be ok right? im not very mechanically inclined so let me know any info you have.

 

shavings=terrible!

 

is there any way you can get rid of the shavings or stop them from falling into the the motor? like a vacuum of some type or something while tapping the new threads in?

 

Seriously...
Any metal shavings that fall into the cylinder from running the tap through will then hang out with your piston and rings, then they get to pass through the valves and finally end up inside your nice little turbo....think about it.

There will definitely be shavings too, without a doubt. Mitsu doesn't care because they already axed your warranty, so whats a new longblock & turbo plus install to them?

Removing the head may be the cheaper option in the long run. Then again, you may get lucky.

 

true true... well thanks for the input. I appreciate it

 

the dealer isn't doing you any favors buy what they've suggested so I wouldn't let them touch your car. I'm sure someone in your area can r&r the head and run a tap threw the hole for $150-$200 if you ask around.


Or another option is to take that $$$ you were going to spend at the stealership,
go buy a good torque wrench and a tap & die set and do it on yourself. Its not real hard to do if you take your time, plus I know the head removal process is well documented on the net.

 

Did you ever take your pulgs out, or did this just happen on its own?? If so im gonna be checking my plugs to make sure there tight.