300hp Tuning Cost?
Thank you for all the feedback
I found the article that mentions 320-330hp in the VII.
Sports Car International, November 2002.
And I Quote...
We spoke with a guy who runs a 4-wheel dynomometer, and his numbers show the car making 320-330 horsepower with the torque to match. Add a 0-60 mph time of around 4.5 seconds, and it's a no-brainer that this engine simply blurs the ink with which that official horsepower number was written.
The article also mentions power limits in production cars in Japan of 280 horsepower. So this could mean many things. Maybe the VIII will actually have 49 fewer horses.(?) Maybe the VIII actually has more than 271.(?) Who knows?
Maybe Sports Car International's sources are on crack
I have a 3350# AWD car with 277 horsepower and it does 60 in about 5.7 seconds.
Mitsubishi web site still claims less than 5 seconds.
I found the article that mentions 320-330hp in the VII.
Sports Car International, November 2002.
And I Quote...
We spoke with a guy who runs a 4-wheel dynomometer, and his numbers show the car making 320-330 horsepower with the torque to match. Add a 0-60 mph time of around 4.5 seconds, and it's a no-brainer that this engine simply blurs the ink with which that official horsepower number was written.
The article also mentions power limits in production cars in Japan of 280 horsepower. So this could mean many things. Maybe the VIII will actually have 49 fewer horses.(?) Maybe the VIII actually has more than 271.(?) Who knows?
Maybe Sports Car International's sources are on crack

I have a 3350# AWD car with 277 horsepower and it does 60 in about 5.7 seconds.
Mitsubishi web site still claims less than 5 seconds.
Originally posted by rollo
I think with a "Type R" badge, a giant "Powered by Mitsubishi" windshield banner, those 'Cobra Eyes' windshield washers and a light-up 'Afterburner' tailpipe, you'd be up to 300hp at least, maybe 400.
I think with a "Type R" badge, a giant "Powered by Mitsubishi" windshield banner, those 'Cobra Eyes' windshield washers and a light-up 'Afterburner' tailpipe, you'd be up to 300hp at least, maybe 400.
I hope that was not directed at me .
It is funny though.

By the way, I spent my tuning budget on neon lights.
Originally posted by favre95
I believe the 16G turbo is effective up until about 22-25psi...someone correct me if I am wrong that is why so many DSMers use it.
I believe the 16G turbo is effective up until about 22-25psi...someone correct me if I am wrong that is why so many DSMers use it.
The trick is to increase the VOLUME of air that way you increase HP without having to increase boost pressure. Thats why an exhaust system and intake make power and also improve response (usually)
Someone will map the turbo soon enough and we will find out what the optiomal boost pressure will be. Remember it is a twin scroll which may be quite different than the 16g we are used too.
We also need to locate any bottlenecks in the plumbing (excessive kinks, bends or reductions in pipe dia.) all these things will give us "free" HP.
I would like to see how far we can go with the stock turbo before shelling out big bucks for an upgraded unit. I will go as far as "street " porting the head, cams, high flow cat, down pipe, exhaust, Venom intake manifold, throttle body, cold air intake with the biggest K&N cone filter w/bell, porting the turbo (if needed) and an upgraded ECU (mabe Vishnu will have one by then). I hope we can get >325 or so WHP with these mods and have fantastic response a massive powerband and be emissions legal
Last edited by chronohunter; Feb 13, 2003 at 11:41 AM.
Hopefully intake, exhaust, and EVC (or similar device) will be enough. One question though. Do people run boost controllers when they have chips, or does the chip eliminate the need for a boost controller? (yes I realize one controls the ECU, and the other the wastegate)
Erik in LA
Erik in LA
Originally posted by concordmitsunet
i dont know if a manual boost controller would cut it to make this application better because by mitsubishi's specs., the 16g's solenoid restrictor is already allowing it to spool up to 19psi, then it drops to 16.25 where they rate the 271hp at 6500 rpms... if it held the 19psi to redline, at approx. 8hp gain per psi (reflective of turbo size) the 2.75 extra boost alone with get you close to your desired 300 hp, so maybe a greddy profec b eclectronic boost controller would work better
i dont know if a manual boost controller would cut it to make this application better because by mitsubishi's specs., the 16g's solenoid restrictor is already allowing it to spool up to 19psi, then it drops to 16.25 where they rate the 271hp at 6500 rpms... if it held the 19psi to redline, at approx. 8hp gain per psi (reflective of turbo size) the 2.75 extra boost alone with get you close to your desired 300 hp, so maybe a greddy profec b eclectronic boost controller would work better
WHAT??? Again, ignorant comments. Do you have any idea WHY an electonic is better than a manual according to you? Or are you just making up stuff as you go?Manual boost controllers work BETTER than electronic controllers... the only reason everyone wants an electronic so bad is because of the convinience of adjusting the BC from inside the cabin.
I have owned many many different manuals and electronic BCs and by far my favorite for reliablity/function is the manual boost controller!
Originally posted by chronohunter
I would like to see how far we can go with the stock turbo before shelling out big bucks for an upgraded unit. I will go as far as "street " porting the head, cams, high flow cat, down pipe, exhaust, Venom intake manifold, throttle body, cold air intake with the biggest K&N cone filter w/bell, porting the turbo (if needed) and an upgraded ECU (mabe Vishnu will have one by then).
I would like to see how far we can go with the stock turbo before shelling out big bucks for an upgraded unit. I will go as far as "street " porting the head, cams, high flow cat, down pipe, exhaust, Venom intake manifold, throttle body, cold air intake with the biggest K&N cone filter w/bell, porting the turbo (if needed) and an upgraded ECU (mabe Vishnu will have one by then).
Why do you want to see how far you can go with the 16g... is this like trying to see how far a DSM can go on a 14b???Don't get me wrong, I'd like to know, but I have a problem with your logic....
I think instead of paying for big ticket items such as: porting the head (FP starts out at $700 for stage 1), cams($450 for the cheapest DSM cams on the market), Venom intake manifold ($600 is the cheapest I remember seeing it for)... you could make more power easier by doing the "simple, effective, and cheaper" mod of switching to a larger turbo.
Also, shops like www.forcedperformance.com might offer upgraded compressor wheels for the stock turbo such as an 18g wheel.
My point is that it is easier to make power by not neglecting the "turbo upgrade" part of modding.
well turbanium, simply enough, most fast dsms are run off electronic boost controllers, specifically the greddy profec b when it comes to turbos in the 14b-18g size, many 10-11 second times with this controller and any good website that really knows what they are doing will advocate it, just call www.roadraceengineering.com ... forcedperformance.com ... etc and they'll all tell you the same, save your obnoxious insults, in fact get over whatever your problem is and take it out on someone else.....
the greddy profec b has three things that a manual boost controller does not that from what i have learned, makes it better for the evo, it has a dial that can soften and sharpen boost response which can help make it do that you dont spike up and then drop down in higher rpms, if you read the theory of what i was talking about, you would have noticed that i mention boost drops on the evo, this can be because of the turbo, the method of boost controll, and/or exhaust pressure backing up and causing the wastegate to open too much, along with obviously having the ability to adjust the boost from inside the car and by puting a manual b.c., you are going to see more spiking and dropping, the last is that the greddy has a huge mechanical unit that actually alters vacuum, all a manual.b.c does is let air leak out at the will of your vacuum system, so with a turbo this size, you cant just expect a manual boost controller to hold as steady boost, i may be wrong, every application is different, but if thats not enough for you, then go ahead and tell me why not rather than just talking smack
the greddy profec b has three things that a manual boost controller does not that from what i have learned, makes it better for the evo, it has a dial that can soften and sharpen boost response which can help make it do that you dont spike up and then drop down in higher rpms, if you read the theory of what i was talking about, you would have noticed that i mention boost drops on the evo, this can be because of the turbo, the method of boost controll, and/or exhaust pressure backing up and causing the wastegate to open too much, along with obviously having the ability to adjust the boost from inside the car and by puting a manual b.c., you are going to see more spiking and dropping, the last is that the greddy has a huge mechanical unit that actually alters vacuum, all a manual.b.c does is let air leak out at the will of your vacuum system, so with a turbo this size, you cant just expect a manual boost controller to hold as steady boost, i may be wrong, every application is different, but if thats not enough for you, then go ahead and tell me why not rather than just talking smack
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The cost to make a stock Evo 8 300 bhp is zero if you hammer the restrictor and about 50 cents if you change it 
Turboniam, I think electronic boost controllers enable you to control the boost much better over the whole rev range, through the gears, start duty, etc. Why do you say a manual is better?

Turboniam, I think electronic boost controllers enable you to control the boost much better over the whole rev range, through the gears, start duty, etc. Why do you say a manual is better?
Originally posted by Turboniam
Why do you want to see how far you can go with the 16g... is this like trying to see how far a DSM can go on a 14b???
Don't get me wrong, I'd like to know, but I have a problem with your logic....
I think instead of paying for big ticket items such as:...... you could make more power easier by doing the "simple, effective, and cheaper" mod of switching to a larger turbo.
My point is that it is easier to make power by not neglecting the "turbo upgrade" part of modding.
Why do you want to see how far you can go with the 16g... is this like trying to see how far a DSM can go on a 14b???Don't get me wrong, I'd like to know, but I have a problem with your logic....
I think instead of paying for big ticket items such as:...... you could make more power easier by doing the "simple, effective, and cheaper" mod of switching to a larger turbo.
My point is that it is easier to make power by not neglecting the "turbo upgrade" part of modding.
Anyway, Ralliart may offer turbo upgrades that will make my point moot despite. That is until we see what the price is.
First off the same things that work on a WRX will work on the EVO.
Fact -cold air intake do practically nothing to increase hp on a WRX. Most tuners stay away from intakes on WRX's. Catback exhausts also do very little to increase hp on a WRX.
The hp is found by increasing boost (boost controller) and putting a full turbo back exhaust on the car including an uppipe.
Full turbo back exhaust = down pipe, midpipe, rear section. Swapping out the uppipe is good for an additional 8 hp or so.
I'm telling you with just a $129 boost controller (my first mod) my WRX was much faster. I set it around 16 psi and WOW!
With a full turbo back exhaust and 16psi boost (stock is around 13.5 -14.0 on a WRX) I ran consistant low to mid 13s in the 1/4 mile. Not bad for about $1000 in mods. Thats close a full second faster than stock.
So to answer your question. 300+hp
1. boost controller - run a few psi more than stock.
2. exhaust mods, ( full turbo back exhaust) - anything less than that will do very little to increase hp.
Big hp - 350+hp
3. Turbo swap, fuel injectors, fuel pump, engine management =chip
A good company that will be able to help you is Turboxs.
www.turboxs.com
Fact -cold air intake do practically nothing to increase hp on a WRX. Most tuners stay away from intakes on WRX's. Catback exhausts also do very little to increase hp on a WRX.
The hp is found by increasing boost (boost controller) and putting a full turbo back exhaust on the car including an uppipe.
Full turbo back exhaust = down pipe, midpipe, rear section. Swapping out the uppipe is good for an additional 8 hp or so.
I'm telling you with just a $129 boost controller (my first mod) my WRX was much faster. I set it around 16 psi and WOW!
With a full turbo back exhaust and 16psi boost (stock is around 13.5 -14.0 on a WRX) I ran consistant low to mid 13s in the 1/4 mile. Not bad for about $1000 in mods. Thats close a full second faster than stock.
So to answer your question. 300+hp
1. boost controller - run a few psi more than stock.
2. exhaust mods, ( full turbo back exhaust) - anything less than that will do very little to increase hp.
Big hp - 350+hp
3. Turbo swap, fuel injectors, fuel pump, engine management =chip
A good company that will be able to help you is Turboxs.
www.turboxs.com
Originally posted by Turboniam
Why do you want to see how far you can go with the 16g... is this like trying to see how far a DSM can go on a 14b???
Don't get me wrong, I'd like to know, but I have a problem with your logic....
I think instead of paying for big ticket items such as: porting the head (FP starts out at $700 for stage 1), cams($450 for the cheapest DSM cams on the market), Venom intake manifold ($600 is the cheapest I remember seeing it for)... you could make more power easier by doing the "simple, effective, and cheaper" mod of switching to a larger turbo.
Also, shops like www.forcedperformance.com might offer upgraded compressor wheels for the stock turbo such as an 18g wheel.
My point is that it is easier to make power by not neglecting the "turbo upgrade" part of modding.
Why do you want to see how far you can go with the 16g... is this like trying to see how far a DSM can go on a 14b???Don't get me wrong, I'd like to know, but I have a problem with your logic....
I think instead of paying for big ticket items such as: porting the head (FP starts out at $700 for stage 1), cams($450 for the cheapest DSM cams on the market), Venom intake manifold ($600 is the cheapest I remember seeing it for)... you could make more power easier by doing the "simple, effective, and cheaper" mod of switching to a larger turbo.
Also, shops like www.forcedperformance.com might offer upgraded compressor wheels for the stock turbo such as an 18g wheel.
My point is that it is easier to make power by not neglecting the "turbo upgrade" part of modding.
It may not be as cheap and as simple as just bolting a big turbo on...but it does produce a better STREET car.
I am not totally against an upgraded turbo but the powerband must be as large for the road racing/ autocrossing/ rallycrossing that I plan to do with the car.
Originally posted by chronohunter
What restrictor!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
What restrictor!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
Originally posted by HobieKopek
I'm 95% sure he means the restrictor plate on the MAF or MAP sensor (I forget which the Evo uses. Derp.).
I'm 95% sure he means the restrictor plate on the MAF or MAP sensor (I forget which the Evo uses. Derp.).
We need to be 100% sure, I love free HP!



