First off, i was thinking of going with the RS due to it being 3k cheaper, and just adding power locks/windows myself.

1. Without ABS, is it easy to lock up the brakes? What if for some reason i need to SLAM on the brakes to avoid and accident, im pretty much screwed?

2. How much are stock automatic windows + panel/buttons? Is the install hard?

3. WHY in hell is there no arm rest? That's horrible. What weight savings is that? 2 ounces? You know that it does nothing for performance, only saves the company money.

4. "my friend" wants to know Is the Xede the best piggyback for a stock car for power? "my friend" wants mods that he can take off of the car before dealer works on it. He'd also like to know Wheel horsepower from just a piggyback.

5. Will mitsu try to blaim things on an exhaust+DP?

6. How much are some better tail lights? Why would they put altezza tail lights on this car? Looks retarded.

7. All of the magazines quote very nice 0-60 times. Do they all get those times by launching at 6k RPM's?

8. Whats the average for the stock clutch to die? 30k miles? How much is it to replace with something that can take many launches and hard driving, but feels almost stock?

9. I know there are cams for high rpm power, are there ones that improve the 'lack of power' below 3k RPM problem?

10. How long do the stock tires last before needing to be replaced?

I know i could search for hours looking for answers to some of these, but ive searched on the ABS thing, no answer after reading countless threads.

Currently i have a dodge srt-4, which is a great car, but i may be moving to a place where AWD would be a massive benefit in the winter. I realize there are a lot of questions but i appreciate the help. Thanks.

 

1. Not sure; I have an MR. I've read that you can lock them up and that it kinda sucks without ABS, but some RS owners prefer it.
2. No idea.
3. Didn't know there wasn't one.
4. The best? There is no clear-cut "best," but the Xede does work well. There is no set whp that it gives you...it depends on what you do with it. I have an S-AFC w/Fields harness. With no other mods in stock form, I picked up 2mph/.2s in the 1/4, and I can put it back to stock in less than 5mins when I go to the dealer. Flashes can give 20whp to a stock car, too.
5. Yes, probably. I did just a cat-back to avoid issues. Dp+cat replacement will probably make things more difficult.
6. $600? New ones are very expensive, but then we have Evodave who can paint them however you want, and they will look as good as anything you can buy new. Not sure of his prices yet.
7. Each one is capable of it, but most people aren't good enough to do it. The 6k rpm question is arbitrary. IT depends on your own launch method and how well you can drive. Plus, there is no way for regular people to measure 0-60, so it's hard to say. 1/4-mile tracks don't have any such indicator.
8. Some have gone 85k, others 5k. It apparently depends on how you drive/use it, but it can go 30k with spirited, but skillful driving. It can go way less with poor driving. $1000+ for a clutch replacement including labor.
9. Well, 264/264 cams will provide more torque, but there is no "power below 3k" problem. The turbo just isn't spooled by then, but it doesn't really matter, since when you shift from redline, you are at 5k or so in the next gear. In my MR, when I shift, I'm at 5400 in the next gear...right at full boost.
10. 10-20k depending on driving habits.

Well, the ABS thing isn't the most common topic, so the rest you could have searched for easily if you had started with something else. An Evo will be NO HELP in the winter unless you put on a set of all-season or snow tires. The stock Advans harden in cold weather and become slicks basically. I spun all 4 helplessly without being in boost when I first tried to drive in snow, so I now have an extra set of rims/tires just for winter.

 

1) On dry pavement, the Advans actually grip very well during braking. I have tried panic braking a number of times and still didn't trigger ABS. I didn't feel ABS pulsation unless I'm driving on snow.

2) Taking the door panel apart and routing the wires through the little door grommet might take more time than you'd want to spend. Just pay a few hundred dollars and have a shop do it for you.

3) The GSR and MR comes with an armrest with storage. It's all one piece starting from the cup holder. I'm sure the dealer sells it as a replacement part.

4) Xede is very good, but unless you're running the PRECISE mods for each map, you're not running the most efficiently. Also, some local Evo friends reported issues with various piggybacks - Xede decreased throttle response noticeably, UTEC interfered with idle signal, etc.

5) Depends on dealer. My Evo was stage 1+, catless, with lowered suspension. One dealer refulsed to fix my rattling sunroof and blamed it on the lowering springs that "increased chassis stress", but another dealer gave me new front rotors because they were warped.

6) Gruppe-S sells the authentic MR taillights for $400 shipped. Or you can pay Evodave to convert your stock lights to Evo VII style for much less.

7) They launch at 5,000rpm or higher because anything below that will bog the car real bad.

8) If you plan on doing multiple launches, expect to get a new clutch soon. When I sold my Evo I had 21,000 miles. Because I baby my clutch, it still feels new and grabs strong.

9) 264 Cams

10) less than 20,000 miles.

 

That's not a few questions.... that a book!!! lol Hopefully you'll get a good Mitsu dealer... but where I am.... they'll try to void your warranty for anything!! Exhaust and DP.... it's over. I had the car for like a month and noticed a ring of rust on the rotor where the pad wasn't touching... took it back to the dealer and they said they weren't gonna do anything 'cause the brakes are only covered up to 500 miles and I had almost 2000... even though I JUST bought it. After fighting they said they would "good will" me a pair or pads. I had a defective pad that had a huge groove in it!! They are a bunch of @ssholes where I am.... good luck! Don't have time to answer all the other questions... but you'll love the car!!

 

How could exhaust+DP do anything harmfall to the car? That's rediculous. You guys ever try the magnusson-moss act against them?

It states they have to PROVE how the modification caused the problem.

Anways i'm pretty dead-set on getting an evo over the sti. Eventually someday i'll want to mod it and eventually someday it will be a lot cheaper with the EVO. Plus you can fit massive tires sizes on an evo while the STi cant go past a thin 245.

Few more Q's

1. If i replace the stock clutch with the ACT Street, how many 5k rpm drops could that withstand?

2. People say you have to spend 1k for a clutch, but the ACT street is $160, how much would install cost?

3. People say they have to pay $240 for brake pads, and this car is expensive to maintane, yet you can get decent pads for $70 total (non-brembo). Is this car truly coslty to maintain?

4. How long would a decent set of snow tires last me? A few winters?

Thanks,

Hypnoz

 

People scream that all the time, but the dealer can still do what it wants and sometimes it's Mitsu itself that denies the claim at a higher level. The exhaust/dp don't necessarily do anything bad, but you are removing the stock cat and making considerably more HP, both of which give them excuses to deny claims in a roundabout fashion.

You sure? I've read that to put 255s on an Evo, you have to roll the fenders.

1. A 5k rpm drop will just bog unless you happen to be making a lot more power. If you did 6k drops, there's no way to guess how many launches it could withstand. Since dumping the clutch does the most damage to the drivetrain, it's likely that your t-case will break before your clutch goes out. If you do launches with a feathering technique using a little slip, then you could probably do over 100 launches and not break anything. It's still a guess, though.

2. That's just the street disk alone. When you replace a clutch, you don't just replace the disk, but also the pressure plate, which is more than the disk. The whole ACT kit is $480 or so, but then you pay 500-600 for the installation, which puts it at or above 1k. If you can do it yourself, then great, but it's no fun.

3. Uh, there is no brake pad for the Evo that you can get for $70 total. The fact that you said non-brembo tells me you don't really know what's going on. Brembo makes the calipers, not the brake pads or rotors. I don't know what you mean by "decent" pads, but the Evo is a high-performance machine with monster brakes. Those pads may be "decent" for a Camry, but not for an Evo.

4. If you only use them during the winter, they should last a while. It also depends on how long your winter is.

 

. Uh, there is no brake pad for the Evo that you can get for $70 total. The fact that you said non-brembo tells me you don't really know what's going on. Brembo makes the calipers, not the brake pads or rotors. I don't know what you mean by "decent" pads, but the Evo is a high-performance machine with monster brakes. Those pads may be "decent" for a Camry, but not for an Evo.

Actually we do have Brembo rotors and pads as our stock parts.

 

Thanks for the info. I'm the one that doesn't know what's going on then.

 

I thought that Lancershop sells one set of two OEM Brembo pads for 215 or something. Is this overpriced or something?

 

hello and welcome

 

What the ****? "Hello and welcome"? This isn't the newbie section, he was asking a ****in' question! You're the greatest post ***** ever.

 

good luck if you decide to purchase

 

if your buying this car to launch it your buying the wrong car.. your just gonna burn up the transfer case. Why not get the 3K rps triple carbon clutch and quaife differential and call it a day.

 

 

Can somebody tell me why there is such spoiled brat b!tchiness on this board?....man...If you are not a part of the solution, you are a part of the problem...If you have nothing good to say, say nothing at all.