ive had my car dyno'd twice, the first time i had 275hp/279trq w/ mbc(20-21psi) 3in catback, hks intake, bov, safc2, blitz dtt. now since then ive added nology hotwire kit, ngk one step colder spark plugs, dc sport 3 in dp w/ cat delete , walbro 255 and mail in dynoflash, i had it dyno'd today i had 284hp/268trq. same dyno, same gas, same psi. my a/f right around 12. i use 93 octane?????????anyone

 

maybe you have abit of boost leak. ur number should be roughly 300whp on a dynojet. now you did not mention what type of dyno

 

maybe it's your safc settings. Could also be a boost leak, bad gas, regap plugs.

 

yeah, maybe a boost leak.

 

get your car scaned then get a reflash that will **** your mods and the way your car is responding to them

 

Yeah I was wondering about the bad gas thing - that could always be an issue. How does the car feel compared to the previous dyno? Feel any faster..? Being only up a little on HP and actually down on torque sounds bad. Could be many things, that's too bad.

 

it was done at extreme motor sport in odenton md, im not sure what kind of dyno it is. i thought about the bad gas idea. the boost leak crossed my mind to, but the tech there stated there was no indication of a leak according to the graph, that it was holding fine. im trying to figure out whats wrong w/ my scanner, ill try to post the dyno later tonight. it feels abit faster especially midrange power. acceleration is much smoother. the a/f line was almost stright across right around 12.??

 

12 on 93 is rather lean to me. u should be around 11 maybe 12.5

 

do you have both dynographs handy? What was the temperature differences? Id def get a new flash. Or get rid of the flash.

 

a couple of the guys there said theyve heard of people losing power w/ the hot wire kit and that someone they know ended up taking it back out. another guy there though it could be contributed to the dynoflash. where is that guarenteed 20whp???????somethings wrong and i dont know what.

 

It's a Dynojet, so it should read on the high end. I dyno'd 248whp stock, which included a 13.1@104 at the track. With my cat-back and other bolt-ons, I ran 12.6 on 93oct and 12.2 on a mix of 93/104 indicating well over 300whp, so you should be dyno'ing at or above 300 easily. You say your AFR was 12 across the board, but were you logging the runs to check the timing? 12 is on the edge of danger and is not recommended on 93 oct, so it's possible you were pulling timing due to being too lean, and that will definitely cause a loss of power.

Who tuned the car and who was tuning it during the dyno pulls? If you have a flash and S-AFC, then you should only have slight adjustments of fuel on the S-AFC, but you have to log the timing to know what AFR adjustments are doing...

 

I think you mean 11.5...

 

The flash is very helpful. There's no reason to get rid of it now that he's paid for it. The rev limit raise, fuel cut removal, and base afr/timing make it easier to tune with the S-AFC.

 

yeah ill be able to post them in a little bit, when i can get my scanner working.

 

mail in flash ?? you need to get your car tuned in person on a dyno... IMO...

you have done so much, and got so little... you have created a lot of variables with all the upgrades... have a professional look at it, or take it back to stock and start over...