Evo Steering wheel shakes when I brake?
Evo Steering wheel shakes when I brake?
Ok I read about this on some other threads. I'm at 20k I have an 2003. I changed the rotars, replaced with stoptechs. Also changed the brake pads. Rotated the tires. Problem went away for a few day's Now its back again. Seems the worst when i brake in fifth gear
could be your wheels out of balance, but also could be your rotors. they may be warped. try to avoid washing your car, if you do, after driving because the rotors will be hot, which in turn cause them to warp when hit by the colder water.
Originally Posted by xiaoni420
could be your wheels out of balance, but also could be your rotors. they may be warped. try to avoid washing your car, if you do, after driving because the rotors will be hot, which in turn cause them to warp when hit by the colder water.
Originally Posted by travelsize420
is it oly when you brake...?
my laancer had a wheel out of balace and the wheel shook over 60 mph and while braking...
my laancer had a wheel out of balace and the wheel shook over 60 mph and while braking...
Trending Topics
If it only happens when you brake, then most likely it is not a wheel imbalance. Most likely, you have some amount of rotor thickness variation caused by a change in pad materil and rotor material.
Contrary to the assumption of most people who just buy aftermarket brake stuff for their car, expecting it to work perfectly, a LOT of Mitsu development goes into matching the brake lining, rotor, and vehicle to get a good street car combination.
Now I can't say exactly what the problem is, but if I were a betting man, I'd say your pads are not matched well for the style of driving that you are doing, and the brake temperatures that you normally see. Problems like this happen when you buy aggressive pads, and dont drive aggresively, for example.
My suggestion is to have your rotors inspected for thickness variation....or what some people incorrectly car "warping". Have the rotors turned if you can, or otherwise, you might have to get new ones. Also, get some more information about the lining you purchaed. If it is too aggressive, or not aggressive enough, you may have to change.
One other thought, check your lugnuts for constant residual torque. If your wheels are not torqued all the way, your rotor may not be sitting square to the hub and caliper.
Also, dont worry about washing your car. The temps you see while driving around town is usually not even close to the temperatures you need to truly warp a rotor from thermal expansion/contraciton.
Contrary to the assumption of most people who just buy aftermarket brake stuff for their car, expecting it to work perfectly, a LOT of Mitsu development goes into matching the brake lining, rotor, and vehicle to get a good street car combination.
Now I can't say exactly what the problem is, but if I were a betting man, I'd say your pads are not matched well for the style of driving that you are doing, and the brake temperatures that you normally see. Problems like this happen when you buy aggressive pads, and dont drive aggresively, for example.
My suggestion is to have your rotors inspected for thickness variation....or what some people incorrectly car "warping". Have the rotors turned if you can, or otherwise, you might have to get new ones. Also, get some more information about the lining you purchaed. If it is too aggressive, or not aggressive enough, you may have to change.
One other thought, check your lugnuts for constant residual torque. If your wheels are not torqued all the way, your rotor may not be sitting square to the hub and caliper.
Also, dont worry about washing your car. The temps you see while driving around town is usually not even close to the temperatures you need to truly warp a rotor from thermal expansion/contraciton.
Last edited by Mercenary3; Aug 16, 2005 at 12:29 PM.
I just got done reading this and I think you will find it useful. Its a long read but worth it.
I am experiencing the same shaking problem and plan on replacing the pads soon.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=37088&page=1
I am experiencing the same shaking problem and plan on replacing the pads soon.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=37088&page=1
OK
- I replaced the stock rotars with Stoptechs.
- Installed new OEM mitsu brakepads from the dealer.
Still have the shacking problem?
Going to make sure the lugnuts are torqued right? How?
You guys think a wheel lock can cause this problem? you know one of the lugnuts are a different wieght because it is smaller than the stock one's?
Also going to get a wheel alignment!
- I replaced the stock rotars with Stoptechs.
- Installed new OEM mitsu brakepads from the dealer.
Still have the shacking problem?
Going to make sure the lugnuts are torqued right? How?
You guys think a wheel lock can cause this problem? you know one of the lugnuts are a different wieght because it is smaller than the stock one's?
Also going to get a wheel alignment!
Originally Posted by Regnout
I just got done reading this and I think you will find it useful. Its a long read but worth it.
I am experiencing the same shaking problem and plan on replacing the pads soon.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=37088&page=1
I am experiencing the same shaking problem and plan on replacing the pads soon.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...t=37088&page=1
This is very good imformation, a little long but well worth reading...
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers...rotors_myth.htm
http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers...rotors_myth.htm
[QUOTE=TurboWill]
Still have the shacking problem?
Going to make sure the lugnuts are torqued right? How?
[QUOTE]
Torque wrench. Use 77 ft/lbs. Torque them down in a star pattern after you have them on finger tight.
Too much torque, or uneven torque is the best way to fubar your rotors. Also, using your parking brake right after you've come off of the track with glowing brakes. Or, riding through water with hot brakes.
Uneven torque exacerbates all of these problems.
Still have the shacking problem?
Going to make sure the lugnuts are torqued right? How?
[QUOTE]
Torque wrench. Use 77 ft/lbs. Torque them down in a star pattern after you have them on finger tight.
Too much torque, or uneven torque is the best way to fubar your rotors. Also, using your parking brake right after you've come off of the track with glowing brakes. Or, riding through water with hot brakes.
Uneven torque exacerbates all of these problems.


