20G Fever!
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
tynidex,
The 20G is not just a compressor side modification as stated on page 8. The 20G also has the turbine wheel clipped to increase the exhaust flow.
As for making an anti surge ring for the 20G it is something we are looking into to. Drilling the shroud is impossible there isn't enough room there to drill anything.
I have another fix that I believe is going to increase power AND drop the surge issue....
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The 20G is not just a compressor side modification as stated on page 8. The 20G also has the turbine wheel clipped to increase the exhaust flow.
As for making an anti surge ring for the 20G it is something we are looking into to. Drilling the shroud is impossible there isn't enough room there to drill anything.
I have another fix that I believe is going to increase power AND drop the surge issue....
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Rich,
Correct. Actually we finished all of our dyno testing and posted the numbers of 393 whp etc. We then put the new shortblock and head on the car and tested again with no change in power on pump gas with the stock turbo. The car then went back to AWD before the April Mitsubishi vs. Subaru event and has been in the same state of build since then, except for the 20G and the race gas that is now in it.
Since there was no change in power from the shortblock and head I felt it wasn't a good marketing idea to post those results. Before I get accused of being "crooked" or anything else you will all need to know we don't recommend changing the shortblock or cylinder head until it is absolutely needed.
Shortblocks are for durability, no extra power to really be had by changing and the heads on the EVO's are so good that we haven't seen any real gains until the turbo is replaced with something else.
I had thought about not even mentioning it, as that would have dropped our build cost for the Car and Driver event down another $7,000 but that would have truley been dishonest and I couldn't get myself to do it. I wish I had left the stock engine/head in the car looking back on it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Correct. Actually we finished all of our dyno testing and posted the numbers of 393 whp etc. We then put the new shortblock and head on the car and tested again with no change in power on pump gas with the stock turbo. The car then went back to AWD before the April Mitsubishi vs. Subaru event and has been in the same state of build since then, except for the 20G and the race gas that is now in it.
Since there was no change in power from the shortblock and head I felt it wasn't a good marketing idea to post those results. Before I get accused of being "crooked" or anything else you will all need to know we don't recommend changing the shortblock or cylinder head until it is absolutely needed.
Shortblocks are for durability, no extra power to really be had by changing and the heads on the EVO's are so good that we haven't seen any real gains until the turbo is replaced with something else.
I had thought about not even mentioning it, as that would have dropped our build cost for the Car and Driver event down another $7,000 but that would have truley been dishonest and I couldn't get myself to do it. I wish I had left the stock engine/head in the car looking back on it.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Originally Posted by davidbuschur
tynidex,
The 20G is not just a compressor side modification as stated on page 8. The 20G also has the turbine wheel clipped to increase the exhaust flow.
As for making an anti surge ring for the 20G it is something we are looking into to. Drilling the shroud is impossible there isn't enough room there to drill anything.
I have another fix that I believe is going to increase power AND drop the surge issue....
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
The 20G is not just a compressor side modification as stated on page 8. The 20G also has the turbine wheel clipped to increase the exhaust flow.
As for making an anti surge ring for the 20G it is something we are looking into to. Drilling the shroud is impossible there isn't enough room there to drill anything.
I have another fix that I believe is going to increase power AND drop the surge issue....
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Well the "fix" arrived today. Not going to work the way I wanted it to. Stage 2 fix
I ordered it today, I'll have the Stage 2 idea next week.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I ordered it today, I'll have the Stage 2 idea next week.David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
I am confused on how this 'surge' effect is being deemed not important. Surging a turbo destroys it. Think about it, the turbo spins at above 100,000 rpms... now just stop it instantly, then respin to operating speed, then stop it again.. repeat that step about 5 times. Does that SEEM ok to anyone? That is what compressor surge is. The way anti-surge ports work is they allow air to by-pass the wheel so if the air tries to reverse direction it can be behind the wheel instead of slamming into the wheeling effectively trying to stop it. Surging a turbo is like hitting a very high knock count.. yes the turbo may take it for a while but it is somewhat like knock... a car may knock alot and live for awhile... all it takes is the one unlucky time that it destroys the assembly.
To make matters worse, think about what happens when pieces of the turbo break apart on the intake side. They get shoved into the motor. So not only could you destroy your turbo but why not take out the motor as well
Go out with a big bang! Thats my idea on surge at least.
And depending on when exactly it surges makes a difference as well. If the turbo surges in part throttle its not good but you can fix it by always accelerating hard. Thats with most the GT35r owners have learned... give it a tiny bit of gas or floor it. Dont half-@ssed try to pass people
If the 20g simply surges no matter what conditions you try to accelerate at you should not buy it ever, I doubt this is the case though. But honestly, if you cant modulate the throttle with the turbo, why bother with it? If it is an all or nothing turbo like the 35r why not get the 35r? If you are prepared to get rid of the instant spool-up the stock turbo has than you might as well go with a 35r. And for the old school DSMers that know of the 20g, you should look at the airflow rates of the stock turbo compared to the old 20gs... Our stock turbo is just about as powerful as the 20g, yet somehow is capable of spooling twice as fast.
Thats my idea of the whole thing at least
People either should keep the stocker and get 400 on racegas and have it spool instantly or sacrifice it and shoot more towards 600hp but with a bunch of lag. I dont really see any other decent comprimise. You get twice the lag for 50hp? Doesnt make much sense to me. For the road course people they should be looking at power levels at RPM ranges. Or log the whole course and see where your RPMs are.. I think they would be amazed to know they would hardly ever use the more powerful range of the bigger turbo but would lose tons of power throughout most of the track by using a laggier turbo.
To make matters worse, think about what happens when pieces of the turbo break apart on the intake side. They get shoved into the motor. So not only could you destroy your turbo but why not take out the motor as well
Go out with a big bang! Thats my idea on surge at least.And depending on when exactly it surges makes a difference as well. If the turbo surges in part throttle its not good but you can fix it by always accelerating hard. Thats with most the GT35r owners have learned... give it a tiny bit of gas or floor it. Dont half-@ssed try to pass people
If the 20g simply surges no matter what conditions you try to accelerate at you should not buy it ever, I doubt this is the case though. But honestly, if you cant modulate the throttle with the turbo, why bother with it? If it is an all or nothing turbo like the 35r why not get the 35r? If you are prepared to get rid of the instant spool-up the stock turbo has than you might as well go with a 35r. And for the old school DSMers that know of the 20g, you should look at the airflow rates of the stock turbo compared to the old 20gs... Our stock turbo is just about as powerful as the 20g, yet somehow is capable of spooling twice as fast. Thats my idea of the whole thing at least
People either should keep the stocker and get 400 on racegas and have it spool instantly or sacrifice it and shoot more towards 600hp but with a bunch of lag. I dont really see any other decent comprimise. You get twice the lag for 50hp? Doesnt make much sense to me. For the road course people they should be looking at power levels at RPM ranges. Or log the whole course and see where your RPMs are.. I think they would be amazed to know they would hardly ever use the more powerful range of the bigger turbo but would lose tons of power throughout most of the track by using a laggier turbo.
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From: Where Ever the Smoke and Rubber takes me.......
I think the $800 Ball Bearing 50 Trim from Precision is an AWSOME deal and if you get yourself a manifold and wastgate you can have a VERY nice spooling and powerful turbo kit for under $2000. May as well go that route, avoid surge, have FAST spooling, and make BIG power similar to that of a GT3076R.


