Alright, I didnt really want ot be one of those people that do this because there are so many variables, but here goes.

I got dynoed for the first time a week ago, i have no baseline to compare to so its a hard question, but from the mods i have do my numbers seem right.

I had five runs and went from 284 WHP to 299 WHP, but i had to turn the boost up from 20.5-21 psi to about 23 psi. to even get the 299 WHP

DYNO: 248x dynojet dynamometer

Mods are:
Dynoflash
HKS 272's (no gears)
Hallman MBC
Walbro
Buscher TB exhaust w/ high flow cat
Works drop in filter

Any advice would be greatly appreciated, i will try to scan my graph and post it soon
thanks,

Lance

 

Only matters what you dyno'd in stock form. If you put on all those mods before getting a baseline dyno, then that was your mistake. The only other recourses to determine your actual power level would be to compare with another Evo on the same dyno while knowing his mods or to go to the track and see what you run in the 1/4-mile, specifically the MPH.

You also should not be running 23psi on pump gas...that will just cause timing to be pulled at high rpms in higher gears.

 

It was my understanding that you could get away with running pump gas (93) and even higher boost with a good tune? No?

 

I have turned down the boost a little after the dynorun( my AF seemed fine with the boost at 23, no pulled timing), and yeah, not having a baseline is my fault i agree. I am wondering what people with the same mods are putting down. I also am hearing that the dynojet reads a little higher than most in some situations, that was another concer, and if thats the case the my WHP is even lower that the 299 WHP.

Thanks for the comment Warrtalon.

 

too many variables but for a dynojet those numbers are low.

 

At our dyno day 2 weeks ago, the numbers for cammed Evos ran from 293-306 on the stock turbo and pump gas. I snuck in without cams at 294, but only 270 torque, and this was on a Dynojet. We had a WR w/cams and UTEC that put down 328 and then a GT35r w/meth and AEM EMS (poorly-tuned) that put down 360, so whereas you see a bunch of people all over the country dyno'ing a lot higher than you on both Dynojets and Mustang Dyno's, you would have been right in the middle of our pack locally, and we have 1/4-mile numbers to back it up. I ran 12.6s back when I had a cat-back and only put down 282/259, and then 12.2s just with some 104oct mixed in and raised boost/fuel removed. I'm about ~10whp/10wtq higher now that I have a full TBE, so it should be a little faster. The 12.1 was on the TBE and race gas mixed with 93, also.

You probably could use a better tune, but don't let claims of 335whp on a Mustang Dyno from others with similar mods get you down. Go see what it does at the track first...

 

Uhm, no, where'd you hear that? You can only run higher boost on pump gas if you have a WORSE tune that makes you rich, thus reducing power, increasing fuel odors, and reducing gas mileage.

 

Your numbers are about right. If you took off the cat you would see another 15whp.

 

Thanks for the comments guys, makes me feel a little better. They guy that was doing the dyno said that i was still a little rich even with the dynoflash tune (reason for upping the boost in his opinion).

I may have to look at the tune, might be the reason for low numbers.

thanks again!!

 

JJ,
I dynoed this last thursday at Torque freaks, i could not make the dyno day the following weekend to meet all you guys i had to head back home.

Lance

 

i have the same mods as you but different name breands and i have 264s but i put down 335 at 21psi would have tyred ot be at 23 but loosing power cause of my plugs...

 

The stock air box and cat hurt you slightly

I think WA uses 92 or 91 octane fuel which costs you another 10 - 15 whp

On your boost - see fi you can get a 2nd boost gauge hooked up to verify that yours is accurate

I have seen many that read low or high

One of the reasons why I recently developed a data logging system which uses a extranal map sensor to reference boost

BTW - on the a/f ratio - especially on dynos - proper collant temp is critical to get a accurate reading on a/f. I do all runs with a 180 degree coolant temp.

Post up your sheets if you can or send me a copy and I can make what ever custom corrections that may be needed for free

 

I use 92 fuel which hurts me a little. I will try and get a second gauge hooked up to verify but it will take some time for that.

Thanks Al for the suggestions i appreciate it, i will get you a copy of my dyno sheet to look at tomorrow.

Thanks again

 

i dont do a lot of 92 octane tuning so most of the mail in flashes are for 91 which makes them on the conseravtive side - not the best for max dyno numbers but makes for smooth car and super reliable

I am going to try and arrange a trip out that way to Seatle in November and then I will have some more agressive base maps to use on that gas