JDM MR BOV or APS BOV?!?!
JDM MR BOV or APS BOV?!?!
hey guys help!?!?..i know about both..but im just wondering is the APS BOV overkill? will the JDM MR BOV suffice my needs? my goal is about 400-450 awhp. which BOV would you prefer?
Originally Posted by sirloin1219
hey guys help!?!?..i know about both..but im just wondering is the APS BOV overkill? will the JDM MR BOV suffice my needs? my goal is about 400-450 awhp. which BOV would you prefer?
Originally Posted by mike1023
well i belive a BOV all depening on how much boost you are going to be runing. JDM MR BOV holds around 25psi
Originally Posted by sirloin1219
thx man..thats all i needed to know, cause im begining my journey and just want to make sure my path is crystal clear! =DD
So sorry warrtalon I didn’t mean to take your first repost. And will do now on I will send to you for the proofread. And is that a big thing that English is my 2nd language wait a min. no its not. English is my first language thank you very much.
Trending Topics
Originally Posted by mike1023
And is that a big thing that English is my 2nd language wait a min. no its not. English is my first language thank you very much.
yea i understand the maintenance and money and all that good stuff...but this is something that will carried over the next couple years or so. my evo will no longer be my daily driver once it reaches a certain point. all im doing now is gathering info so that i know what to expect in the future. i may not reach my goal, but ill do everything the right way the first time. thx for the advice though. also my knowledge may not be up to par as some of the other techie guys here..but that's what im here for..to learn! also taking an auto class for ****s and giggles to learn about the other technical crap. not bad for a guy that wears a suit and tie everyday =P
Originally Posted by sirloin1219
yea i understand the maintenance and money and all that good stuff...but this is something that will carried over the next couple years or so. my evo will no longer be my daily driver once it reaches a certain point. all im doing now is gathering info so that i know what to expect in the future. i may not reach my goal, but ill do everything the right way the first time. thx for the advice though. also my knowledge may not be up to par as some of the other techie guys here..but that's what im here for..to learn! also taking an auto class for ****s and giggles to learn about the other technical crap. not bad for a guy that wears a suit and tie everyday =P
On the flipside, think long and hard about what your realistic goals are, because if you really aren't going to go nuts and upgrade the turbo, then maybe you DON'T need to get those extra-expensive parts NOW that won't ever be fully-utilized. What exactly are your goals? Are you just trying to make it a fast street warrior, or are you trying to make it a great car at the track? If a track car, what kind of racing...auto-x, drag, road, or rally? All of these questions will factor into what your ultimate goal should be. Once you have that goal set, then work BACKWARDS in time to determine what parts you need in which order, as well as the severity/quality/expense of each of those mods in preparation for the ultimate goal. If you end up being ok with just under 400whp for a car that is just driven and raced occasionally, then you could just stick with the stock turbo along with all of the supporting mods (meth/exhaust/boost/tune/piping). This would give you a ton of daily-driven power with isntantaneous spool. If you really want something that spools a little later but that gives nasty highway pull, then you could go ahead and do a larger turbo that would require more supporting mods and more complicated tuning. Decide those things now before purchasing expensive supporting mods.
The JDM MR DV is only $110 shipped and will hold 24-25psi beautifully, which would be good for over 350whp on the stock turbo with cams and meth. The TI exhaust you plan on getting also is not necessary...whether you want 250 or 550whp. It's just an incredibly expensive item that is a little lighter than SS exhausts...there is no additional power. Re-consider that plan as well...
yea the ti exhaust is already been comprimised haha. im looking to a get a tb for less than 700 or so within the next month. my goals will be between autox and road. ill also be taking a couple driving courses in the meantime while im upgrading if your going to suggest those. but for those events what power levels would you recommend?
Originally Posted by sirloin1219
yea the ti exhaust is already been comprimised haha. im looking to a get a tb for less than 700 or so within the next month. my goals will be between autox and road. ill also be taking a couple driving courses in the meantime while im upgrading if your going to suggest those. but for those events what power levels would you recommend?
I wasn't going to suggest driving courses, but those are a good idea. I haven't done any, but have managed to do quite well at both auto-x and road racing (only once so far).
For auto-x, you definitely don't need much power...stock turbo is best and probably with no more than 350whp depending on the course. I've done great with just 280-290whp in all of mine, because I rarely get to rag out 2nd gear all the way. Some good low-end torque is good for coming around turns in 2nd gear at low rpm, though.
For road racing, you still need something that will spool up quickly. People with large turbos have to get stroker kits in order to spool the turbo up fast enough for the road course. On the 16G, your spool is pretty much instantaneous all over the course. My instructor a few weeks ago was so impressed, he asked if my Evo was twin turbo. He actually asked me 3 separate times, because he didn't believe me. What was happening was I was never lagging and was pinning him to the seat coming out of every turn. He was used to turbo'd cars, but was not used to instantaneous whiplash upon acceleration. At this time, I was probably around 320whp, since I was using 100oct.
I just got the APS a week ago. Install is simple( just do it with the car cold) and took me like 20 mins. Get yourself a stubby phillips screwdriver to install either one. The APS is nice tho, it holds boost better, and is only loud when you want it to be.


