Best intake that won't stall your Evo
Originally Posted by KazzEvo8
I had a brief conversation with Works on this when I was talking about other things and they say that (my interpretation and words, sorry if I've gotten anything wrong; call them to get the direct info) the MAF is counting on the honeycomb design the stock intake uses.
That being said, I did NOT ask them about how to get more air in once the stock intake is too limiting.
Personally, I have the BR mass air pipe which Works does NOT recommend because of the above issue. I installed cams at the same time and have not been tuned yet and the idle and lift after aggressive acceleration creates rough idle and occasional stall. This has gotten better after the ECU learns.
That's what I've heard, anyway ...
That being said, I did NOT ask them about how to get more air in once the stock intake is too limiting.
Personally, I have the BR mass air pipe which Works does NOT recommend because of the above issue. I installed cams at the same time and have not been tuned yet and the idle and lift after aggressive acceleration creates rough idle and occasional stall. This has gotten better after the ECU learns.
That's what I've heard, anyway ...
Originally Posted by evolvedmb
It has stalled on 4 occassions with the BR intake, before all this new hardware was installed. I don't want to start a flamewar between vendors, but it is being tuned by another tuner in Ohio currently. I just found another thread concerning this issue of "drivability" and stalling, and most people agree that the HKS or stock box is the best route to go, because they don't mess with the MAF.
Thanks for responding!
I am going with an Ecutech flash for now^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Maybe an EMS down the road though
Thanks for responding!
I am going with an Ecutech flash for now^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Maybe an EMS down the road though
Well! I had put 4 different kinds of intake on my EVO and no problem. K&N drop-in, K&N Typhoon, APS cold-air, and HKS RS. No problem at all. Run like champ. Off course I has them tuned.
The stock air box creates a resonant frequency that the mass air reads, when you remove the box the frequency is no longer there to be read so the computer richens out for moment,,also if you are using an blow off valve to open atomesphere then this can most likely cause another stalling issue,cause once again the mass looks for a frequency of air to be injested that is no longer there and richens alot for a split second,,also the bov will hover open slightly while the throttle is closed pulling in unmetered air which the computer will try and correct for by lowering the idle
yea its definatly not your intake that is causing the stalling issues. I have only heard of problems with the K&N Typhoon POS.
Have you had a tune yet, since the cams, or intake. Thats probably your problem. Could be them cams too...
Have you had a tune yet, since the cams, or intake. Thats probably your problem. Could be them cams too...
I had the AEM, with no problems and then I got it tuned. Since the initial tune I have added a bunch of BR goodies, and the BR Pipe kit and it works and fits ALOT better than the AEM...
Originally Posted by EVO3675
The stock air box creates a resonant frequency that the mass air reads, when you remove the box the frequency is no longer there to be read so the computer richens out for moment,,
Thanks for chiming in Jarrod. I was going to ask the same thing. If you have the original 2 bend MAF pipe that is what is wrong. We quite making those about a year ago. The new MAF pipe we have idles perfectly, no tune needed, no idle problems, no stalling. It has fixed every car we put them on.
Maybe the other tuner can make one for you.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
Maybe the other tuner can make one for you.
David Buschur
www.buschurracing.com
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