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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 08:32 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by Aux.
2. Oh and by the way, no, my MBC didn't come with nipples. Oh and i should just go into the local AutoZone and purchase some. So just walk right in and ask someone who is even dumber than i am and ask them for nipples.... riiiiiight.

3. The saying "its just like hooking up any other MBC" is like telling a person to drive a stick shift when they never have driven one then saying "it's just like driving any other stick shift", don't even bother saying it.

4. So then i do have to remove all the T fittings and lines that go everywhere like they hallaman write up or don't i ? Some people on this post don't even know if they hooked their MBC up right! So who am i to listen to... anyone ? Right now all i have is snide comments and unsure installation instructions, and the sinic in me tells me that that won't get my MBC installed. So can someone who has some knowledge on the subject please walk me through this so i can make a write up on it ???
Come on, Aux, you're making this too hard.

2. I didn't say nipples; I said CAPS. These little rubber or plastic caps COVER the exposed nipples (3) on the BCS (2) and the MAF pipe (1). I told you that you can knock out two of those by simply looping a short piece of vaccuum hose from one nipple to the other on the BCS. Then, you just need one little cap to cover the nipple on the underside of the MAF pipe. This is where the stock vaccuum hose goes from the BCS to the MAF pipe (intake). Anyone at Autozone could show you where to find a box of rubber caps that cover nipples.

3. The reason I said it's like hooking up any other MBC is so that you realize you can use the installation instructions for ANY MBC. I wasn't saying it as if you'd know how to install other MBCs. All you have to do is follow the instructions for the Hallman or any other boost controller. Those instructions can be found on here multiple times, at Evomoto, and on the Hallman website. In your case, you want to use the turbo nipple instead of Tee-ing the intake manifold/bov line. Great, that's what I did...that makes it the most simple installation in the world.

4. Yes, you do remove all the stock lines and the ONE Tee fitting. You simply have one hose from the side port to the wastegate actuator, and one hose from the bottom port to the turbo nipple. The turbo nipple and WGA nipples are only about 3 inches apart from one another.

Edit: I said the same exact things that Sackett said.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 08:49 AM
  #17  
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From: Between green lights
I know sometimes i can be a knucklehead and make sh*t too hard for myself, but some of the dumb@ss answers i get are like , dude just don't even answer! I am gonna try my d@mndest tonight to install this on my ride with the little bit of scrappings of info i have pulled from here and there but it just totally frustrates me when other members act like if you don't know about turbos you shouldn't own this car, or like i should already know about this kinda stuff ! I am a wiring expert not a general knowledge of cars expert, so when people say "yeah you know, the wastegate actuator ! " first thing that goes through my head is "where the hell is the wastegate actuator " and then with removing all these lines it makes me nervous. I am in the process of picking up a rolling chassy so i can have a car to tear apart and pratice on but till then these other guys gotta understand my staus may be Evolving Member because i am still new , but, i ask alot of questions so i can learn. But it just kills me with some of the answers peole give. Sorry for the rant ! I just hate it when people don't help and are more concerned with sh*tting on others because they haven't work on the 4g63 for as long as they have. But thanks for the information War , i don't oknow why i just didn't PM you to begin with. At least you were helpfull !
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 09:17 AM
  #18  
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wow...next thing you know they'll have to start supplying instructions with motor oil.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 09:38 AM
  #19  
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https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...03&postcount=2

both ways work
but i have had better luck with tapping the bov line
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 10:32 AM
  #20  
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From: Between green lights
Originally Posted by burningmoney97
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/sh...03&postcount=2

both ways work
but i have had better luck with tapping the bov line

Thanks bro. I found that one too , its just that this is my first turbo car and i have some problems with part location. I found one that gives some really fuzzy pictures but hopefully tonight i will be able to use them and install my MBC with a write up for the morning.
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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 02:18 PM
  #21  
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Yep, just follow the diagrams that burningmoney posted.

Personally, I wouldn't tap the BOV line, go straight from the turbo.

Forge as well as a number of other tuners prefer that method.

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Old Dec 6, 2005 | 11:49 PM
  #22  
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well just installed the unos was fairly easy...however one problem i have is that even having it turned all the way to counter clockwise i am still receiveing normal boost . I am teeing it off the bov and using the soft spring, dunno if thats any reason but yeah...i am recieving normal boost while having the mbc turned fully counter clockwise, ive double checekd all the lines and zip tied everything. anyone know of the problem? thanks
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 02:29 PM
  #23  
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I'm about to install my UNOS this weekend, but before doing it I'd like to hear from people that already did it. After reading quite a lot I found that I should use the stronger spring, but in order to get this done faster I'd like to know how many turns (clicks on this MBC) should I apply in order to set it as close as stock boost. I know I can drive, stop, adjust, drive again, and so on, but it'd be much easier if I have a starting point.

Thanks.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 02:52 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by JuancaROD
I'm about to install my UNOS this weekend, but before doing it I'd like to hear from people that already did it. After reading quite a lot I found that I should use the stronger spring, but in order to get this done faster I'd like to know how many turns (clicks on this MBC) should I apply in order to set it as close as stock boost. I know I can drive, stop, adjust, drive again, and so on, but it'd be much easier if I have a starting point.

Thanks.
On the stiffer spring it was roughly 3-5 clicks to get back to normal boost for me.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 02:55 PM
  #25  
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well i am a retard had the hoses from the outlet and inlets backwards. The mbc holds boost like a champ on the soft spring set all the way out, 22lbs tapers to 20.5.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 05:17 PM
  #26  
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As I've mentioned before, when using the stock wastegate actuator, the softer spring in the Unos is only good for around 20-21 PSI. If a different wastegate actuator is used (with a stiffer base spring pressure) the softer Unos spring will allow for a higher range of adjustment.

For any level of boost higher than 20-21 PSI with the OEM actuator in place, the stiffer unos spring will likely be required.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 05:34 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by xenoturkey
On the stiffer spring it was roughly 3-5 clicks to get back to normal boost for me.

Mine was 16 turns to get it to ~22 psi with the hard spring.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 06:02 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by fsugatorbait
Mine was 16 turns to get it to ~22 psi with the hard spring.
Strange...

But im not running 22psi either.

Im only at like 19 right now, turned it down a bit for winter.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 06:38 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by JuancaROD
I'm about to install my UNOS this weekend, but before doing it I'd like to hear from people that already did it. After reading quite a lot I found that I should use the stronger spring, but in order to get this done faster I'd like to know how many turns (clicks on this MBC) should I apply in order to set it as close as stock boost. I know I can drive, stop, adjust, drive again, and so on, but it'd be much easier if I have a starting point.

Thanks.

I put the stiff spring in to start off with. Just make sure its seated in there properly.

I started it with 6 turns in, it hit 19 PSI. I think I went 3 clicks to 20, then two clicks to hit 21.5/22.

So if I were you, i would start about 8-10 clicks on the stiff spring, then tune the rest out.
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Old Dec 7, 2005 | 08:26 PM
  #30  
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Great, big thanks to xenoturkey, Nood1es, Mike@Forge, fsugatorbait, and Sackett for your advice.
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