Couple of questions about my Megan TBE install I just completed

Do I need to heat wrap the downpipe near the turbo to protect the surrounding area from heat? ( I am aware of doing it to increase performance, but dont care about that). Its not touching anything.

Any idea of a good torque to use to hold the DP to the turbo O2 housing, using normal bolts (not the OEM ones with springs couldnt seem to get them in)?
I went to around 45ftlbs and they felt pretty tight at that, no leaks. The DP has a flex section in it.

Anybuddy sell the o2 bung screw caps? Mine departed the testpipe at around 80 mph on the highway as I forgot to tighten it. I tried to get an 18 mm spark plug to plug it, but cant get one locally. I am making a makeshift one up by having the end of a spark plug antiflouler welded shut.

I know an M18 x 1.5 bolt will do it, but you have to special order them, like the spark plugs.

Aside from a few fitment issues I love the Megan TBE . Talk about a difference on going from stock exhaust to full TBE

 

It seems only stupid questions are answered here in this forum, like

"how can I make the psssh sound"

"can I run my car on 87 octane"

"how do I make my evo RWD for a 2f2f parody"

I give up. I know I posted it in the wrong place, hence the link in the right place, but have all the really smart people gone home forever?

I tried the megan website, and th megan thread, and the search revealed way too many unambiguous hits.

Dafarmer, warrtalon, gregg, blonde, timbitz?anyone?

Are those questions really that stupid and have been answered loads of times?

 

calm down- its only been four hours. Eventually someone will respond with the answers you are looking for.

 

Just to clarify, this is the first time I have had a garage and tools to do work to my own beloved evo (I know that it is sad that this is my test dummy, I missed out on putting fart cans onto civics and neons.)


BTW I am 31, have a phd and am not some punk kid. But I am new to auto work and cant learn everything from books. Please, a little help

 

Fair enough, but why is it the really stupid questions get answered instantaneously

 

Sorry, I didn't answer, because I don't know the answers. On the first one, no, you don't need heat wrap to protect the surrounding area from heat. The purpose is to keep the heat inside the pipe for improved exhaust flow, not for the protection of surrounding parts.

 

awesome, thats waht I thought Was just worried about it burning something as there is no heat shield on aftermarket. I really apprecaited it

 

sorry about the spelling. the need for speed PC steering wheel is in the way of the keyboard!

 

How strict are they with grammar, spelling, punctuation, and sentence structure when you submit your written dissertation?

 

jesus, i'm I dreaming ?

 

LOL, i am a chemist. Getting the molecules to join is far harder than typing

not that you would know it from my posts.

And to answer the question.Chemists version of word spellcheck.

 

I dont know, do I have a beard, a halo, and a long white robe?

If so, YES

 

i have the megan downpipe and it sits about 1/2" from the oil pan. i do not have it wrapped. my oil light never comes on from the oil being hot, and i live where it gets to over 100 during the summer. so unless you have a specific problem that arises later i wouldn't worry about wrapping it.

 

Bigfish,
The OEM spring bolts call for 37 ft-lbs. I know that doesn't help, but it sounds like you're in the right ballpark.

Fast as$ whatever, The oil light doesn't come on when it's too hot, it comes on when oil is too low.

 

If you're going to respond to a post, have respect for people.

If your oil is hot, it will have more pressure, which will cause the oil light to come on. The oil light is designed to sense oil pressure, either high or low, not oil level (that's what a dipstick is for). it doesn't work like a gas gage sensing the level.