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Heater Issue...HELP!

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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 05:27 AM
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Unhappy Overheating/ Heating Problem...HELP!

It started saturday night. I put in my turbosmart mbc saturday morning and it works great. But for some odd reason later on i n the day my temp gauge next to my speedometer was outrageously high. Then I started to get light coolant spray on my windshield/ coolant leaking on the ground. So I drove it home(like 2 miles) and parked it. Sunday morning I checked it and no leakage. I drove it and it drove ok, except for a rattle noise coming from under the hood somewhere. I pulled over and looked under the hood and nothing. I revved it...nothing. So I took off, the noise came back. I took it past 3k rpm and to WOT and between 17-18psi it hesitated but hit 20psi and held, meanwhile no rattle above 3k rpm. Well, it was cold outside so I turned on my heater and NOTHING! No heat at all. I know all of these problems are connected in some way. I dont know what to do! (yes I searched every thread related to this and nothing that sounded like this issue).

Last edited by EVOLVEU; Jan 9, 2006 at 05:39 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:13 AM
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Check your coolant level? If some was leaking out before you might be low on coolant so that there is enough to push through your engine and keep it cool in the winter, but not enough to be pushed through the heater core.. Double check all your coolant hose clamps as well, something might have slid loose momentarily and you might have had a leak from there..
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:29 AM
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Coolant level is good. All radiator hose lines are fine too. Where is the heater core located? I havent been able to check that yet because I dont know where its at.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:38 AM
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I'm not sure of the exact location of the Evo's heater core, but usually its under the dash and sometimes a PITA to get to.. check the lines to/from the heater core in the engine bay.. *most* of the time in a newer car the heatercore itself is not the problem.. Sometimes even the temperature switch on the dash may break internally causing it to permanently stay in 1 position.. My first check would be those coolant lines to the heatercore.. run the car for a bit and check if they are hot and stiff (squeezing) but you might want to use gloves
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:43 AM
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Ill check them and get back to you. Thanks!
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:49 AM
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Cool, let us know how it goes.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 07:52 AM
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My radiator hoses are not stiff at all now, is this part of the prob? nd it took a very long time for my car to warm up this morning as well.

Last edited by EVOLVEU; Jan 9, 2006 at 07:55 AM.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 08:01 AM
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Probably not.. Checking the upper main radiator hose after running the car for a while would tell you if your thermostat is opening or not. Seeing as how your car is not running hot the thermostat is probably fine. There should be 2 coolant lines that pass through the firewall, one will be a feed like and the other will be return, both for the heater core. Run the car for a bit, turn the heat on, then check those lines that run through the firewall to see if hot coolant is getting to the heater core.. If they are cool and limp after running the car for a while (let the car get to operating temp atleast) that would mean no hot coolant is getting to the heatercore, which would be a reason you don't have heat.. If that is the case there could be a few problems.. If the heater core feed line is hot and the return isn't, that may mean there is a block in the heatercore (Not too likely here)..

Mess with the switch on the dash too, see if you notice less resistance in it than usual.. Not likely this would be the problem, but just another easy thing to rule out..

Keep a good eye on the coolant levels as well..
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 08:06 AM
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Originally Posted by EVOLVEU
My radiator hoses are not stiff at all now, is this part of the prob? nd it took a very long time for my car to warm up this morning as well.
..I just read this again. The first thing I would think of my car took a longer time than usual to warm up is that the thermostat might be stuck *open*. This would cause coolant to continually flow through the motor. Normally the coolant cycles inside the passageways in the block until it reaches a certain temperature (decided by the thermostat, which is closed) then the thermostat opens and lets the hot coolant out and into the radiator... If the thermostat is sticking open the coolant might not have a chance to get hot, which would mean cool/warm coolant is being passed through the heater core not giving you any heat..

Does the heat work at all? is it cold or luke warm? Does it get warmer after the car has been running for a while?? What is the outside temperature there?
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 08:09 AM
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I would recommend performing a pressure test on the coolant system. The heater not blowing hot air is because their is no coolant reaching the core.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by Stew
does the heat work at all? is it cold or luke warm? Does it get warmer after the car has been running for a while?? What is the outside temperature there?
The air is cold, like a/c cold(the a/c is working great btw). The heater stays cold. It was in the 40s when I tried this, then I just tried again in the 60s.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:45 PM
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Originally Posted by RiversideMitsu
I would recommend performing a pressure test on the coolant system. The heater not blowing hot air is because their is no coolant reaching the core.
I will try that tomorrow, thanks!
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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Same thing happened to my truck a few years ago. Ended up being a warped block and coolant was spraying out of the gasket. When it happened, I heard a ticking under the hood and the truck hesitated when starting off.

Run the car and make sure you don't see signs of leakage on the engine.
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MIevo8MR
Same thing happened to my truck a few years ago. Ended up being a warped block and coolant was spraying out of the gasket. When it happened, I heard a ticking under the hood and the truck hesitated when starting off.

Run the car and make sure you don't see signs of leakage on the engine.

No leaks
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Old Jan 9, 2006 | 06:01 PM
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Assuming you don't have a leak...
You have an air pocket in the cooling system. Bleed it out.

Pop the radiator cap off ( make sure it's not HOT )
Run the engine at idle with the heater on MAX, blower on LOW, vent on FACE/FLOOR.
Keep it idling and add coolant as needed until it blows HOT.

Question : Does your radiator fans blow all the time ?

.
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