Alignment shop problem?!?
Alignment shop problem?!?
Had my car aligned this morning....asking for -1.8 F / -1.5 rear.
They said the most negative camber they could get was -.6 F and -.9 R.
Is there something they may have overlooked to get more camber?
They said it uses excentrics (SP) and it wont move any further.
HELP
They said the most negative camber they could get was -.6 F and -.9 R.
Is there something they may have overlooked to get more camber?
They said it uses excentrics (SP) and it wont move any further.
HELP
This is probably the case then. The evo does use eccentrics 9 (cams) to move the camber in and out. Unfortunately there are only two different settings, or ways the bolt can be put in. thus only 2 different camber angle possibilities. Of course your camber will vary by suspension movement over time. The only way to get more camber is to get camber plates, but you may need coil overs to get them, I'm not sure if they make camber plates for stock struts or not.
I feel they should be able to get more out of the front as well. Stock spec is -1 degree with a full degree of adjustability. I am guessing they didn't turn the bolts in the right fashion though I don't know what way the arrows are supposed to be pointing to get max negative camber.
Don't most people get at least -1.5 on the stock suspension?
Don't most people get at least -1.5 on the stock suspension?
So I had them put the car back on the rack and looked for myself.
There are only two camber settings you can have.
This is set by the bolt holding the front damper to the hub assembly.
There are two bolts on each damper and the top one has an arrow stamped on its head. Arrow IN = -1Deg, OUT = -2Deg. That's IN = towards engine, OUT = towards wheel.
The top bolt is pointing out towards the wheel. So am I fuccd?
There are only two camber settings you can have.
This is set by the bolt holding the front damper to the hub assembly.
There are two bolts on each damper and the top one has an arrow stamped on its head. Arrow IN = -1Deg, OUT = -2Deg. That's IN = towards engine, OUT = towards wheel.
The top bolt is pointing out towards the wheel. So am I fuccd?
I'd have to say you might be screwed. Was your car hit? There is now way you shouldn't be able to have more camber in the front. I've never aligned and evo that couldn't be put back in spec.
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The camber bolt has two settings "-1" and "-2". At "-2" I was really getting about -1.4 degrees. My alignment shop wasn't sure how to adjust them either. The easiest thing to do is just take the service manual in with you and show it to the tech. My alignment tech just looked at the directions and was like "oh duh, that's easy", and I was on my merry way.
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I haven't looked closely but I thought it was a "cam bolt" similar to the Ingalls kits. My alignment shop was able to get 1.25 negative at all four corners so I just assumed this was the case.
Tom
Tom
If you really want to adjust your camber to what you want, which is probably not possible with the factory adjustments, go here.
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric.../Camber_Plates
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/pric.../Camber_Plates
When I was rolling the stock suspension I had camber set at -1^ F/R. Lowered with Hotchkis springs and front went to -1.6^, rear was adjusted the same at -1^. How on earth do you only have -.6^ Front?!? That doesn't make sense. I also assume you have the stock suspension...
You should be able to get another full degree of negative on the front.
You should be able to get another full degree of negative on the front.
Originally Posted by naucrx
When I was rolling the stock suspension I had camber set at -1^ F/R. Lowered with Hotchkis springs and front went to -1.6^, rear was adjusted the same at -1^. How on earth do you only have -.6^ Front?!? That doesn't make sense. I also assume you have the stock suspension...
You should be able to get another full degree of negative on the front.

You should be able to get another full degree of negative on the front.

Originally Posted by EVIL_EV0
So I had them put the car back on the rack and looked for myself. There are only two camber settings you can have.
This is set by the bolt holding the front damper to the hub assembly.
There are two bolts on each damper and the top one has an arrow stamped on its head. Arrow IN = -1Deg, OUT = -2Deg. That's IN = towards engine, OUT = towards wheel. The top bolt is pointing out towards the wheel. So am I fuccd?
This is set by the bolt holding the front damper to the hub assembly.
There are two bolts on each damper and the top one has an arrow stamped on its head. Arrow IN = -1Deg, OUT = -2Deg. That's IN = towards engine, OUT = towards wheel. The top bolt is pointing out towards the wheel. So am I fuccd?
I don't want to lower the car because it gets tracked alot and I think the stock suspension is perfect for the weekend warrior HPDE guy like myself.
I'm going to look in a rear sway bar. That should help less the understeer I've been getting since I cannot seem to correct it via alignment.
Yeah, I saw your post about the bolt already being pointed outward. That's crazy... I still can't believe you don't even have 1 degree of negative camber on the fronts.
You could pick up some camber plates from Cusco or Tein for the fronts. They'll run you about $250 and you can set them conservative for the street and aggressive for the track. HiRevnVIII posted a link to buy the Cuscos; Gruppe-S and Z1Auto also sell them I believe. You can get the Tein camber plates at Lancershop if I recall.
You could pick up some camber plates from Cusco or Tein for the fronts. They'll run you about $250 and you can set them conservative for the street and aggressive for the track. HiRevnVIII posted a link to buy the Cuscos; Gruppe-S and Z1Auto also sell them I believe. You can get the Tein camber plates at Lancershop if I recall.


