12 sec quarter mile??
Account Disabled
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 459
Likes: 0
From: GA
Originally Posted by Warrtalon
Here was my answer in PMs. You should ask me before posting. This is a newbie question that has been asked 1000 times:
Yeah, even $300 is ridiculous for an intake that hardly even helps, but since you have it, we'll work with that.
I got into the very low 12s with the mods listed in the package in my sig. That's what I think you should follow as far as finishing your mods to be ready for low 12s. Here's the list for low 12s that you need to get next:
- Downpipe (already getting this)
- Forge UNOS MBC (run 21-22psi on 93oct)
- Forge RS BOV (holds that 21-22psi without leaking)
- Fuel pump (to prepare for higher boost now and later)
- Dynoflash (absolutely must have the tune to run properly, especially with that intake)
Ok, then to knock on the door of 11s, you will need to add:
- GSC Cams (272s, probably)
- Buschur Lower Intercooler Pipe
- Custom Dynoflash
This will put you in the position to hit 11s IF YOU CAN DRIVE WELL. Most people don't actually accomplish it, but you will at least know you're capable of it. If you want to go even further and ensure easy 11s, add these:
- SMC alky injection (then run 26-28psi on pump gas)
- Buschur ported/coated stock manifold
- Buschur ported/coated 10.5 hotside
- Buschur coated tubular o2 housing
- Custom Dynoflash
At this point, you'll have 360-380whp no problem...
Yeah, even $300 is ridiculous for an intake that hardly even helps, but since you have it, we'll work with that.
I got into the very low 12s with the mods listed in the package in my sig. That's what I think you should follow as far as finishing your mods to be ready for low 12s. Here's the list for low 12s that you need to get next:
- Downpipe (already getting this)
- Forge UNOS MBC (run 21-22psi on 93oct)
- Forge RS BOV (holds that 21-22psi without leaking)
- Fuel pump (to prepare for higher boost now and later)
- Dynoflash (absolutely must have the tune to run properly, especially with that intake)
Ok, then to knock on the door of 11s, you will need to add:
- GSC Cams (272s, probably)
- Buschur Lower Intercooler Pipe
- Custom Dynoflash
This will put you in the position to hit 11s IF YOU CAN DRIVE WELL. Most people don't actually accomplish it, but you will at least know you're capable of it. If you want to go even further and ensure easy 11s, add these:
- SMC alky injection (then run 26-28psi on pump gas)
- Buschur ported/coated stock manifold
- Buschur ported/coated 10.5 hotside
- Buschur coated tubular o2 housing
- Custom Dynoflash
At this point, you'll have 360-380whp no problem...
This guys got the basics right, but instead of Forge parts, you need Hallman Pro MBC and anything else than Forge BOV that Mike even said it wasn't suitable for Evo's.
TBE if you can or get rid of your Cat and get ECU flash, it doesn't have to be Al's, since he really Riches your Tune or "blow it up" according to some of the SoCal and NorCal Evo owner... But I had Al's Tune and it was fine. And it's the cheaper than ECUTEK.
Good launch, and quick shifting and 10.5 hotside will get your there.
11's, Meth Injection running 29 PSi peaking 31 psi, FMIC (NiSei or BR Race), and Lower FMIC pipe that runs to your O2 housing.
Megan or some other cheap *** Exhaust manifold and 02 sensor is fine, it doesn't have to be Buschur brand. But Buschur Ported and jet coated exhaust manifold will give you better spool if you're not doing the "whole" drag racing thing.
But Ram horn Exhaust Manifold is the best out of all of them. and if you do a search, you'll get the equal length ram horn exhaust manifold or Full race manifold and intake manifold.
At this point, if you're not over 400whp on dyno dynamics dyno, your tune is crap and you need to get another tuner.
Um, not sure why you made it a point to say all that about my suggestions, Forbidden. Those are my suggestions, and I think everyone knows that the exact brands I mentioned are not the only ones on the market. They are, however, the ones I suggest for reasons of power, reliability, and cost. Yeah, I'm sure we'd all love a huge FMIC and incredibly expensive equal-length ram-horn header, but come on. None of that is necessary for the goals I mentioned, nor would they be cost-effective.
Why would you say a Hallman instead of a Forge UNOS. Do you even know the difference between them? Have you used both? I have, and the Forge UNOS is better. They are the same price and both work well, but the UNOS has the ratcheting knob, which is very useful. You were also WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY off on the BOV. Do you think I use and recommend parts that are not good for the Evo. Notice I recommended the FORGE RS BOV, not the regular old Forge direct replacement BOV. The RS is the new adjustable one that is considered one of, if not THE best BOVs on the market. Also, those comments about a Dynoflash are just way off. What do you mean he "Riches your tune"? That made no sense and wasn't true. Also, I don't even know why you'd just throw in that comment from about "blow it up" from SoCal/NorCal owners. that was totally uncalled for and untrue. Please, know what you're talking about before regurgitating stuff like that.
Finally, saying that he should be over 400whp on a DD with the stock turbo is just *****-out WRONG. Please show me some stock turbo'd Evos that are over 400whp. If there are any, they are very few and far between...
Why would you say a Hallman instead of a Forge UNOS. Do you even know the difference between them? Have you used both? I have, and the Forge UNOS is better. They are the same price and both work well, but the UNOS has the ratcheting knob, which is very useful. You were also WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY off on the BOV. Do you think I use and recommend parts that are not good for the Evo. Notice I recommended the FORGE RS BOV, not the regular old Forge direct replacement BOV. The RS is the new adjustable one that is considered one of, if not THE best BOVs on the market. Also, those comments about a Dynoflash are just way off. What do you mean he "Riches your tune"? That made no sense and wasn't true. Also, I don't even know why you'd just throw in that comment from about "blow it up" from SoCal/NorCal owners. that was totally uncalled for and untrue. Please, know what you're talking about before regurgitating stuff like that.
Finally, saying that he should be over 400whp on a DD with the stock turbo is just *****-out WRONG. Please show me some stock turbo'd Evos that are over 400whp. If there are any, they are very few and far between...
Part manufactures can be argued all day without any real progress made. Get a MBC, SAFC2(or something to adjust A/F ratios), and a wideband O2 meter. A proper tune can be achieved with these parts and your goal met. Plus the added benefit of knowing your car will handle the use/abuse you put it through.
Originally Posted by blkdinan
Part manufactures can be argued all day without any real progress made. Get a MBC, SAFC2(or something to adjust A/F ratios), and a wideband O2 meter. A proper tune can be achieved with these parts and your goal met. Plus the added benefit of knowing your car will handle the use/abuse you put it through.
Btw, as far as hitting 12s goes, you are right at least. I did hit 12.8s in my 05 with just an SAFC on pump gas - everything else stock - so it can be done, but I still don't think it's advisable.
Warrtalon is right, get the parts listed below and you should run at least mid to low 12's with good driving. High 11's are even possible with great driving and some race gas either unleaded with a cat or leaded with a test pipe. Driving is really the key as you can see from my signature, it really doesn't take much to run low 12's.
- Downpipe (already getting this)
- Forge UNOS MBC (run 21-22psi on 93oct)
- Forge RS BOV (holds that 21-22psi without leaking)
- Fuel pump (to prepare for higher boost now and later)
- Dynoflash (absolutely must have the tune to run properly, especially with that intake)
If you enjoy racing and want to become a better driver, spend the rest of the money getting to the track and racing as much as you can. Anything left over, save up for now. When you wear out a part like the clutch or break something like an axle, you will have the money to replace it.
- Downpipe (already getting this)
- Forge UNOS MBC (run 21-22psi on 93oct)
- Forge RS BOV (holds that 21-22psi without leaking)
- Fuel pump (to prepare for higher boost now and later)
- Dynoflash (absolutely must have the tune to run properly, especially with that intake)
If you enjoy racing and want to become a better driver, spend the rest of the money getting to the track and racing as much as you can. Anything left over, save up for now. When you wear out a part like the clutch or break something like an axle, you will have the money to replace it.
Originally Posted by forbidden color
This guys got the basics right, but instead of Forge parts, you need Hallman Pro MBC and anything else than Forge BOV that Mike even said it wasn't suitable for Evo's.
TBE if you can or get rid of your Cat and get ECU flash, it doesn't have to be Al's, since he really Riches your Tune or "blow it up" according to some of the SoCal and NorCal Evo owner... But I had Al's Tune and it was fine. And it's the cheaper than ECUTEK.
Good launch, and quick shifting and 10.5 hotside will get your there.
11's, Meth Injection running 29 PSi peaking 31 psi, FMIC (NiSei or BR Race), and Lower FMIC pipe that runs to your O2 housing.
Megan or some other cheap *** Exhaust manifold and 02 sensor is fine, it doesn't have to be Buschur brand. But Buschur Ported and jet coated exhaust manifold will give you better spool if you're not doing the "whole" drag racing thing.
But Ram horn Exhaust Manifold is the best out of all of them. and if you do a search, you'll get the equal length ram horn exhaust manifold or Full race manifold and intake manifold.
At this point, if you're not over 400whp on dyno dynamics dyno, your tune is crap and you need to get another tuner.
TBE if you can or get rid of your Cat and get ECU flash, it doesn't have to be Al's, since he really Riches your Tune or "blow it up" according to some of the SoCal and NorCal Evo owner... But I had Al's Tune and it was fine. And it's the cheaper than ECUTEK.
Good launch, and quick shifting and 10.5 hotside will get your there.
11's, Meth Injection running 29 PSi peaking 31 psi, FMIC (NiSei or BR Race), and Lower FMIC pipe that runs to your O2 housing.
Megan or some other cheap *** Exhaust manifold and 02 sensor is fine, it doesn't have to be Buschur brand. But Buschur Ported and jet coated exhaust manifold will give you better spool if you're not doing the "whole" drag racing thing.
But Ram horn Exhaust Manifold is the best out of all of them. and if you do a search, you'll get the equal length ram horn exhaust manifold or Full race manifold and intake manifold.
At this point, if you're not over 400whp on dyno dynamics dyno, your tune is crap and you need to get another tuner.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
