HKS ssq bov
HKS ssq bov
This is stupid but here it goes.
I got the hks bov it was one of the first mods i got on the car ok big deal heres the problem now its been a problem for a while but i put it to the side untill i had time for it. Once i put in the 280 cams the bov wasnt holding boost like it use to under heavy load the bov would go off before i let off the gas it would do it real fast it would open and close as i would mash the gas so i ripped it out put stock one on.
Ok i pulled it apart today nothing looks broke or anything like that it in good shape. My ? is what the hell is wrong with it can it not hold the added air or pressure i didnt look to see the spring if there is a spring i didnt see it becasue i only took off the main cover. Whats wrong is it the spring if there is one is it to weak someone help me here im going crazy over this.
I got the hks bov it was one of the first mods i got on the car ok big deal heres the problem now its been a problem for a while but i put it to the side untill i had time for it. Once i put in the 280 cams the bov wasnt holding boost like it use to under heavy load the bov would go off before i let off the gas it would do it real fast it would open and close as i would mash the gas so i ripped it out put stock one on.
Ok i pulled it apart today nothing looks broke or anything like that it in good shape. My ? is what the hell is wrong with it can it not hold the added air or pressure i didnt look to see the spring if there is a spring i didnt see it becasue i only took off the main cover. Whats wrong is it the spring if there is one is it to weak someone help me here im going crazy over this.
Originally Posted by Phenix_fyah
Get rid of the HKS and then ull be fine.
Are you agreeing wiht the genreal consensus, or are you saying this because you have had experience with it?
Anyways, I have had it in my car for a while, and it is working great. You have to keep in mind that when a BOV sees any sort of negative pressure, hence vacuum, or even a sharp decrease in pressure, hence just starting to let off the gas, it will start to open the valve. Even if you say go 50% throttle from a low speed roll, and the car rev's up, once it reaches the RPM's of where the throttle is at, the BOV will go as well because the manifold will see the pressure drop of the motor reaching the RPM target (Where your foot is holding the pedal) and no longer increase in RPM, or, begin a vacuum condition as it sucks all the remaining air in the system out. When that happens, the BOV will go because it sees the vacuum the manifold is undergoing.
Basically, My BOV is working fine, and set up in a recirc system. I did do a little mod to the HKS and found that the driveability is 100% better than it was completely stock. Basically, what I did was set it up with a double spring insid of the unit, like a helper spring, and the part throttle driveability issues went away. My presure testing of the system showed that I was able to hold about 35-40 psi. Nothing leaked even at 40psi. FYI, I have all silicone couplers and t-bolts holding it all together, at every single clamped joint.
I don't know why everyone is having so much problems with the HKS. Maybe it is set-up more for lower boosted cars, not the average 20psi we are putting out. Once I put a small helper spring in the HKS, it worked really good for me.
Originally Posted by tkklemann
Are you agreeing wiht the genreal consensus, or are you saying this because you have had experience with it?
Anyways, I have had it in my car for a while, and it is working great. You have to keep in mind that when a BOV sees any sort of negative pressure, hence vacuum, or even a sharp decrease in pressure, hence just starting to let off the gas, it will start to open the valve. Even if you say go 50% throttle from a low speed roll, and the car rev's up, once it reaches the RPM's of where the throttle is at, the BOV will go as well because the manifold will see the pressure drop of the motor reaching the RPM target (Where your foot is holding the pedal) and no longer increase in RPM, or, begin a vacuum condition as it sucks all the remaining air in the system out. When that happens, the BOV will go because it sees the vacuum the manifold is undergoing.
Basically, My BOV is working fine, and set up in a recirc system. I did do a little mod to the HKS and found that the driveability is 100% better than it was completely stock. Basically, what I did was set it up with a double spring insid of the unit, like a helper spring, and the part throttle driveability issues went away. My presure testing of the system showed that I was able to hold about 35-40 psi. Nothing leaked even at 40psi. FYI, I have all silicone couplers and t-bolts holding it all together, at every single clamped joint.
I don't know why everyone is having so much problems with the HKS. Maybe it is set-up more for lower boosted cars, not the average 20psi we are putting out. Once I put a small helper spring in the HKS, it worked really good for me.
Anyways, I have had it in my car for a while, and it is working great. You have to keep in mind that when a BOV sees any sort of negative pressure, hence vacuum, or even a sharp decrease in pressure, hence just starting to let off the gas, it will start to open the valve. Even if you say go 50% throttle from a low speed roll, and the car rev's up, once it reaches the RPM's of where the throttle is at, the BOV will go as well because the manifold will see the pressure drop of the motor reaching the RPM target (Where your foot is holding the pedal) and no longer increase in RPM, or, begin a vacuum condition as it sucks all the remaining air in the system out. When that happens, the BOV will go because it sees the vacuum the manifold is undergoing.
Basically, My BOV is working fine, and set up in a recirc system. I did do a little mod to the HKS and found that the driveability is 100% better than it was completely stock. Basically, what I did was set it up with a double spring insid of the unit, like a helper spring, and the part throttle driveability issues went away. My presure testing of the system showed that I was able to hold about 35-40 psi. Nothing leaked even at 40psi. FYI, I have all silicone couplers and t-bolts holding it all together, at every single clamped joint.
I don't know why everyone is having so much problems with the HKS. Maybe it is set-up more for lower boosted cars, not the average 20psi we are putting out. Once I put a small helper spring in the HKS, it worked really good for me.
Yes the recirc system that you got on your car works i have my setup to vent out. I got a aem so the car doesnt want to die anymore so thats the reason im venting. Plus i do alot of night driveing and the mist from the air causes water to build up in the upper i/c pipe and by venting it gets all the water bulid up out.
Don't confuse the HKS with the Greddy Spring mod. To my knowledge, I do not know of people adding springs to the HKS's. So far, I believe thta I am the only one who did it, but I could be wrong.
If you do open it up, and put another spring in there, remember, you don't want to go overboard with the spring. It took me a few tries to get the spring rate right. THe one that's in there now is a very light spring, only taking a minimal amount of force to get it to push down a bit.
FYI, I also tried stacking washers and crap inside of the unit to increase the preload of the spring. For some reaso, I would nevre get it the way I wanted, and decied to try adding another spring. Once I found the right spring, it seems to work better than ever now.
If you do open it up, and put another spring in there, remember, you don't want to go overboard with the spring. It took me a few tries to get the spring rate right. THe one that's in there now is a very light spring, only taking a minimal amount of force to get it to push down a bit.
FYI, I also tried stacking washers and crap inside of the unit to increase the preload of the spring. For some reaso, I would nevre get it the way I wanted, and decied to try adding another spring. Once I found the right spring, it seems to work better than ever now.
Originally Posted by jmartinez1170
Ok you added a spring just like i thought you had to do. The reason im had about it is becasue you pay so much for the damn thing you expect it to work. Ok so now i know its made for lower boost ok. Thanks for your help ill pull it apart tonight and see what i can do about getting a better spring.
Yes the recirc system that you got on your car works i have my setup to vent out. I got a aem so the car doesnt want to die anymore so thats the reason im venting. Plus i do alot of night driveing and the mist from the air causes water to build up in the upper i/c pipe and by venting it gets all the water bulid up out.
Yes the recirc system that you got on your car works i have my setup to vent out. I got a aem so the car doesnt want to die anymore so thats the reason im venting. Plus i do alot of night driveing and the mist from the air causes water to build up in the upper i/c pipe and by venting it gets all the water bulid up out.
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Joined: Oct 2005
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From: Bellevue, WA
i thought u werent supposed to but atmosphere venting BOV's in evos.... is the HKS bov an exception to this? is there some other modification you need in order to successfully vent the HKS bov to the atmosphere without bogging? sorry, not trying to thread jack, im just very interested in the subject because i want an atmosphere venting bov if there is anyway to do it successfully without sacrificing performance...
Originally Posted by Zeppelin8778
i thought u werent supposed to but atmosphere venting BOV's in evos.... is the HKS bov an exception to this? is there some other modification you need in order to successfully vent the HKS bov to the atmosphere without bogging? sorry, not trying to thread jack, im just very interested in the subject because i want an atmosphere venting bov if there is anyway to do it successfully without sacrificing performance...
Originally Posted by tkklemann
Don't confuse the HKS with the Greddy Spring mod. To my knowledge, I do not know of people adding springs to the HKS's. So far, I believe thta I am the only one who did it, but I could be wrong.
If you do open it up, and put another spring in there, remember, you don't want to go overboard with the spring. It took me a few tries to get the spring rate right. THe one that's in there now is a very light spring, only taking a minimal amount of force to get it to push down a bit.
FYI, I also tried stacking washers and crap inside of the unit to increase the preload of the spring. For some reaso, I would nevre get it the way I wanted, and decied to try adding another spring. Once I found the right spring, it seems to work better than ever now.
If you do open it up, and put another spring in there, remember, you don't want to go overboard with the spring. It took me a few tries to get the spring rate right. THe one that's in there now is a very light spring, only taking a minimal amount of force to get it to push down a bit.
FYI, I also tried stacking washers and crap inside of the unit to increase the preload of the spring. For some reaso, I would nevre get it the way I wanted, and decied to try adding another spring. Once I found the right spring, it seems to work better than ever now.
The spring that I put was inside of the original spring. The Outer Diameter of the spring I bought was slightly smaller than the Inner Diameter of the original spring and allowed me to put it into the middle of the original spring. Remember, if you go to much, the manifold vacuum won't be enough to open the BOV.
Originally Posted by slow_evo
Wait so you guys are putting the extra spring inside of the stock spring? Or on the other side so they are pushing against eachother?
What is this about your HKS not holding the "added pressure"? The boost pressure holds the valve shut, so it can hold whatever you throw at it. I would think you are getting problems because the cams you put in lowered your vacuum so it's harder to open the valve. Although it opening momentarily in on-throttle situations is a little odd.
Originally Posted by tkklemann
The spring that I put was inside of the original spring. The Outer Diameter of the spring I bought was slightly smaller than the Inner Diameter of the original spring and allowed me to put it into the middle of the original spring. Remember, if you go to much, the manifold vacuum won't be enough to open the BOV.
Well then what would you suggest to somebody whose valve did not want to open all the way any of the time? Always flutters.....WOT or not....
Originally Posted by tkklemann
The spring that I put was inside of the original spring. The Outer Diameter of the spring I bought was slightly smaller than the Inner Diameter of the original spring and allowed me to put it into the middle of the original spring. Remember, if you go to much, the manifold vacuum won't be enough to open the BOV.
Ok how the hell you get the metal ring off so i can take it apart.
What do i have to do pull it back till one side comes up. I cant seem to get it off