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Soooo... V1 hardwire was a piece of cake...

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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 01:31 PM
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Soooo... V1 hardwire was a piece of cake...

I looked in the HOW-TO section and found a few V-1 hardwire threads. Most went to the cigarette lighter. I just stripped the red lead 1/4" to bare wire, then pulled the wiper fuse behind the hood release and pushed the red wire into the fuse hole and replaced the fuse. It's a 15a fuse - turned the V1, rear and front wipers on and everything is fine. Did the same thing on my Acura TL Type-S and it worked great for 4 years.

If anyone's interested in pics, I'll take some with my Nikon D200.
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 02:45 PM
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Where did you mount your v1 exactly. I was trying to find a good place that didnt bother me and didnt show wires. Two places I thought of were in the sunglasses compartment and it will always be left open, and right under the rear view mirror with the wires going up into the sunroof.
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 02:47 PM
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I used a $3 Pep Boys add-a-fuse to do the same basic thing; no cutting or stripping of wires involved.

(D200. Yum. I got mine a few months ago, with the 70-200 VR, SB 600, Tokina 12-24 and a battery grip. Makes my old D70 feel like a toy.)
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 03:25 PM
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sooooo
you just put the (+) into a fuse hole, and put the fuse back in?

I'l have to try this
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by pog0
Where did you mount your v1 exactly. I was trying to find a good place that didnt bother me and didnt show wires. Two places I thought of were in the sunglasses compartment and it will always be left open, and right under the rear view mirror with the wires going up into the sunroof.
I put mine almost completely "behind" the rear view mirror. I'll take a pic, if you wish. Just about the only thing visible from the drivers side is the rear laser/radar sensor. Oh - and I have the remote display - makes all the difference in the world.

Originally Posted by Rod Munch
I used a $3 Pep Boys add-a-fuse to do the same basic thing; no cutting or stripping of wires involved.

(D200. Yum. I got mine a few months ago, with the 70-200 VR, SB 600, Tokina 12-24 and a battery grip. Makes my old D70 feel like a toy.)
I have a GSR so there's no 10A fuse in the spot for the Infinity system. I intend on doing the same thing there - will have to look into the part you suggest. I have the Nikkor 18-70 f4.4, a nikkor 50mm f1.8, and a quantarray 80-300 f5.6. I too love the weight of the D200. You've gotta get the 50mm F1.8 - it was only like $120 and is a perfect prime lense to have.

Originally Posted by emagdnim8
sooooo
you just put the (+) into a fuse hole, and put the fuse back in?

I'l have to try this
Yep - put the red wire from the hardwire kit (after stripping enough of it to shove in the hole - heh) into one of the fuses with some spare amperage that's switched to the ignition ON position only. One HECKUVA lot easier then removing the center console and tapping the wire there. It's all part of my KISS principle that I use in cars and writing code - Keep It Simple Stupid (where I'm teh stupid).

Last edited by Schuyler; Jun 16, 2006 at 04:37 PM.
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Old Jun 16, 2006 | 06:46 PM
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i never understood everybody going threw the giant hassle of routing it down to the ciggarette lighter.. just pull out the overhead compartment thing, and then tap into the domelight hotwire and screw your ground to the metal surrounding.

it honestly takes less then 30 seconds and is routed very cleanly.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 07:05 AM
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Originally Posted by camMCLEAN
i never understood everybody going threw the giant hassle of routing it down to the ciggarette lighter.. just pull out the overhead compartment thing, and then tap into the domelight hotwire and screw your ground to the metal surrounding.

it honestly takes less then 30 seconds and is routed very cleanly.
My method only requires pulling the A-pillar on the drivers side to run the wire TO the V1 from the hardwire kit.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 07:56 AM
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i'd like to see pictures..... pictures are worth a thousand words
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 10:43 AM
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Ok - no problemo. Pics as promised:

View from drivers side - lower then eye level.




Fuse block, behind the "coin tray".


Remote display - right where I like it so it's easy to mute.



View from the outside, passenger side.


View from the centerline, outside.


Here are links to the pics in their original 3872x2592 glory:

http://photos.imageevent.com/bishop/...i/DSC_2318.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/bishop/...i/DSC_2320.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/bishop/...i/DSC_2322.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/bishop/...i/DSC_2326.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/bishop/...i/DSC_2327.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/bishop/...i/DSC_2330.JPG
http://photos.imageevent.com/bishop/...i/DSC_2331.JPG
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 10:45 AM
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brilliant!!!


This thread should become a sticky
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 11:41 AM
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can u post a thorough instruction of what you did? i have a v1 and since ive owned it, it was plugged directly into the cigarette lighter. now the fuse for the lighter went out so i figure its time to hardwire it, hehe. thanks in advance
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 01:00 PM
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Originally Posted by wj4
can u post a thorough instruction of what you did? i have a v1 and since ive owned it, it was plugged directly into the cigarette lighter. now the fuse for the lighter went out so i figure its time to hardwire it, hehe. thanks in advance
Sure.

1) I pulled out the "coin tray" - the one to the right of the hood release, and the left of the steering wheel. Remove the side panel of the dash, giving you access to the back of the dash:





2) I pulled the 15a fuse for the wipers, visible here, in the lower left hand corner with the wire coming out of it. Use the fuse puller on the back of the "coin tray".


3) Take the red wire from the hardwire kit and cut the vampire tap off, then strip it 1/4" to bare wire. Now push the red wire into the empty fuse socket. Replace the fuse with the fuse puller tool on the back of the "coin tray", making sure the red wire stays in the socket.

4) Take the black wire with the C-shaped connector and connect it anywhere to the metal frame. I loosened the bolt shown here (picture to be posted shortly)and just shoved it behind it and then tightened it.


5) Run the cable from the hardwire kit to the mirror. I fed it up through the dash, in through the hole where the A-pillar cover was, and tie-wrapped it to the existing wire.



6) To snug the cable behind the headliner, gently pry it back at the edge of the windshield. I used a paint can opener, as it worked best for me. Others have used putty knives.

7) TEST! Turn the key to "on" and make sure it works. If not, check the red wire connection and ground.

8) Replace the side panel, and A-pillar cover. When replacing the A-pillar cover, make sure you don't break any of the plastic tabs used to secure it to the frame.

Last edited by Schuyler; Jun 17, 2006 at 02:58 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 09:36 PM
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Mods can you guys move this to how to and sticky it.

Last edited by gsrboi80; Jun 17, 2006 at 09:38 PM.
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Old Jun 17, 2006 | 10:49 PM
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Well, the way you wired it into the fuse box is not the safest. Where did you grab the power off the fuse? The hot side or the fuse side? That is important to know. Potential fire hazards by running things like that to the fuse box, i would not condone it.

That's why others did it a more professional way.
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Old Jun 18, 2006 | 05:27 AM
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Originally Posted by MRCole
Well, the way you wired it into the fuse box is not the safest. Where did you grab the power off the fuse? The hot side or the fuse side? That is important to know. Potential fire hazards by running things like that to the fuse box, i would not condone it.

That's why others did it a more professional way.
Well - understand that the hardwire kit itself is fused - so no need to hang it off of the fuse side, so either side of the terminal should work.

Most certainly not the most professional, but the easiest and quickest. Since it's not an HP mod - I go for quick and easy - to each their own of course
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