Is if safe to drive with a bad EGR valve?
#16
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It's really not worth removing EGR. It's there to control NOx emissions. Without it, your NOx goes through the roof. Your in-cylinder temperatures also go way up, introducing the possibility of more knock.
But then again I'm the type who's against catless exhausts as well.
But then again I'm the type who's against catless exhausts as well.
#17
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I know you said you checked all the hoses, but you may want to check again.
I am saying this because I had an EGR code and I thought I checked all the connections multiple times and then had a buddy of mine check and he found a hose disconnected.
It was in a real hard place to reach.
I am saying this because I had an EGR code and I thought I checked all the connections multiple times and then had a buddy of mine check and he found a hose disconnected.
It was in a real hard place to reach.
#18
Originally Posted by eve-slow
I know you said you checked all the hoses, but you may want to check again.
I am saying this because I had an EGR code and I thought I checked all the connections multiple times and then had a buddy of mine check and he found a hose disconnected.
It was in a real hard place to reach.
I am saying this because I had an EGR code and I thought I checked all the connections multiple times and then had a buddy of mine check and he found a hose disconnected.
It was in a real hard place to reach.
#19
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I found it looking under the hood. There where two vacuum lines attached to eachother so when you pulled on the line it felt like it was attached because one of them was attached. If you reach your hand behind and below the throttle body, you may be able to feel it. You also may want to take off your ic piping to your tb for better access.
#21
Just build a blockoff plate for a cheap fix of the problem. Alot of people remove the egr system completely when stripping for weight. I built a blockoff plate for my 2g DSM out of a small piece of metal that I found around the house. Take off the gasket that is between the egr valve and your engine and make a copy of it on the metal but leave the main hole blocked off. Just put in holes for the bolts then slap on some sealant and you are good to go. Get rid of all your vacuum lines you don't need and block them off with plugs.
#24
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Thanks! I'll try to look for it today! Is there a way to force it closed in case it's stuck open? I'm assuming if it's stuck open at idle it would cause the lean situation. By pulling a vaccuum on it I assume it would close. Which hose to pull the vaccuum on? I assume there would be one coming from the throttle body.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#25
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I havent had it off to look at it but I am pretty sure it is normally closed and it opens with vacuum applied. Also I dont think it would cause a lean condition if it was open at idle because all it would really be doing is taking up space in the cylinder with non combustible air so therefore basically the cylinder act like a smaller cylinder. It will run really rough if it is active at idle so if it really is open, you should notice the poor idle.
Originally Posted by rice_rocket88
Thanks! I'll try to look for it today! Is there a way to force it closed in case it's stuck open? I'm assuming if it's stuck open at idle it would cause the lean situation. By pulling a vaccuum on it I assume it would close. Which hose to pull the vaccuum on? I assume there would be one coming from the throttle body.
Thanks!
Thanks!
#26
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so is it safe to drive my 95 buick with high miles on this with bad egr valve,n exhaust leaks have some trips to drive and want to be safe here and what can i expect if drive it farther distances
#27
Evolved Member
EGR is for emission purposes.you can drive around the globe with your Buick if you need to.
#29
Evolved Member
Op was asking about his Buick
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